OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
#1
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
I now have a moose ignition and jet kit on my bf750 and it really increases the power response. I would like to change the shocks for some aftermarket ones to help with the ride and body roll. I priced the Elkas and they are outrageous in price so I was wondering if there are others out there that are good but at a lower price. Also, is there a stabilizer arm that can be added to the steering to help eliminate bump steer? Thanks for any answers.
#3
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
That's what I've heard, Works shocks are the 2nd best choice after Elkas.
I can say that Elkas make a noticable difference, for starters the quad sits lower. In looking at it from the back with me sitting on it, the A-arms are pretty much level while with the stock shocks they looked sort of like an upside down "V". Because of this you lose some ground clearance but end up with more (up and down) total suspension travel. The lowering and better shock absorber action amounts to a noticably improved ride (less body roll) when pushed hard. Made a big difference when landing jumps too, and as a bonus it had a softer ride than with stock shocks.
I had Elkas on my Brute but ended up selling it right after I got my 700 Grizzly...
I can say that Elkas make a noticable difference, for starters the quad sits lower. In looking at it from the back with me sitting on it, the A-arms are pretty much level while with the stock shocks they looked sort of like an upside down "V". Because of this you lose some ground clearance but end up with more (up and down) total suspension travel. The lowering and better shock absorber action amounts to a noticably improved ride (less body roll) when pushed hard. Made a big difference when landing jumps too, and as a bonus it had a softer ride than with stock shocks.
I had Elkas on my Brute but ended up selling it right after I got my 700 Grizzly...
#4
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
Two choices with the WORKS.
#1- Steeler AT's
#2- G-Series
Both are excellent & price about the same.
I went with the Steeler AT's Dual rate, 1st just the basic bone stock WORKS, cost was $800 for all 4.
Later, I sent the Steeler AT's back to WORKS & had the preload adjusters & remote Res'es installed for another $425 for all 4, excellent turn-around time to, as it was a total of 8 days, WORKS had my Shocks sent back to me.
What do the Aftermarket Shocks Do?
Everything that was said above +++ more.
Smoother ride, excellent handling, no more tippy feeling, ride as fast as your skillls allow, the WORKS will take the punishment & not you the Rider. No more of that nefgitive feed-back thru the handlebars as the WORKS don't allow that to be transmitted past the Shocks.
The preload adjusters are a Nice option, the Remote res'es are nice too but between these two options, go with the preload adjusters. This way you can fine tune the fronts & rear shocks on any ride you go on. The preload adjusters DO affect the shock settings.
In my case, I didn't have the extra $$$'s at 1st for the whole complete pkg, so the Basic WORKS set-up was used, excellent results, unblievable difference between the Stock Shocks & the WORKS.
If you get the WORKS, call WORKS to order, this way they can set-up your WORKS Shocks just For You.
#1- Steeler AT's
#2- G-Series
Both are excellent & price about the same.
I went with the Steeler AT's Dual rate, 1st just the basic bone stock WORKS, cost was $800 for all 4.
Later, I sent the Steeler AT's back to WORKS & had the preload adjusters & remote Res'es installed for another $425 for all 4, excellent turn-around time to, as it was a total of 8 days, WORKS had my Shocks sent back to me.
What do the Aftermarket Shocks Do?
Everything that was said above +++ more.
Smoother ride, excellent handling, no more tippy feeling, ride as fast as your skillls allow, the WORKS will take the punishment & not you the Rider. No more of that nefgitive feed-back thru the handlebars as the WORKS don't allow that to be transmitted past the Shocks.
The preload adjusters are a Nice option, the Remote res'es are nice too but between these two options, go with the preload adjusters. This way you can fine tune the fronts & rear shocks on any ride you go on. The preload adjusters DO affect the shock settings.
In my case, I didn't have the extra $$$'s at 1st for the whole complete pkg, so the Basic WORKS set-up was used, excellent results, unblievable difference between the Stock Shocks & the WORKS.
If you get the WORKS, call WORKS to order, this way they can set-up your WORKS Shocks just For You.
#5
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
Originally posted by: 2TV
That's what I've heard, Works shocks are the 2nd best choice after Elkas.
I can say that Elkas make a noticable difference, for starters the quad sits lower. In looking at it from the back with me sitting on it, the A-arms are pretty much level while with the stock shocks they looked sort of like an upside down "V". Because of this you lose some ground clearance but end up with more (up and down) total suspension travel. The lowering and better shock absorber action amounts to a noticably improved ride (less body roll) when pushed hard. Made a big difference when landing jumps too, and as a bonus it had a softer ride than with stock shocks.
I had Elkas on my Brute but ended up selling it right after I got my 700 Grizzly...
That's what I've heard, Works shocks are the 2nd best choice after Elkas.
I can say that Elkas make a noticable difference, for starters the quad sits lower. In looking at it from the back with me sitting on it, the A-arms are pretty much level while with the stock shocks they looked sort of like an upside down "V". Because of this you lose some ground clearance but end up with more (up and down) total suspension travel. The lowering and better shock absorber action amounts to a noticably improved ride (less body roll) when pushed hard. Made a big difference when landing jumps too, and as a bonus it had a softer ride than with stock shocks.
I had Elkas on my Brute but ended up selling it right after I got my 700 Grizzly...
#6
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
Originally posted by: bfb750BF
Two choices with the WORKS.
#1- Steeler AT's
#2- G-Series
Both are excellent & price about the same.
I went with the Steeler AT's Dual rate, 1st just the basic bone stock WORKS, cost was $800 for all 4.
Later, I sent the Steeler AT's back to WORKS & had the preload adjusters & remote Res'es installed for another $425 for all 4, excellent turn-around time to, as it was a total of 8 days, WORKS had my Shocks sent back to me.
What do the Aftermarket Shocks Do?
Everything that was said above +++ more.
Smoother ride, excellent handling, no more tippy feeling, ride as fast as your skillls allow, the WORKS will take the punishment & not you the Rider. No more of that nefgitive feed-back thru the handlebars as the WORKS don't allow that to be transmitted past the Shocks.
The reload adjusters are a Nice option, the Remote res'es are nice too but between these two options, go with the preload adjusters. This way you can fine tune the fronts & rear shocks on any ride you go on. The preload adjusters DO affect the shock settings.
In my case, I didn't have the extra $$$'s at 1st for the whole complete pkg, so the Basic WORKS set-up was used, excellent results, unblievable difference between the Stock Shocks & the WORKS.
If you get the WORKS, call WORKS to order, this way they can set-up your WORKS Shocks just For You.
Two choices with the WORKS.
#1- Steeler AT's
#2- G-Series
Both are excellent & price about the same.
I went with the Steeler AT's Dual rate, 1st just the basic bone stock WORKS, cost was $800 for all 4.
Later, I sent the Steeler AT's back to WORKS & had the preload adjusters & remote Res'es installed for another $425 for all 4, excellent turn-around time to, as it was a total of 8 days, WORKS had my Shocks sent back to me.
What do the Aftermarket Shocks Do?
Everything that was said above +++ more.
Smoother ride, excellent handling, no more tippy feeling, ride as fast as your skillls allow, the WORKS will take the punishment & not you the Rider. No more of that nefgitive feed-back thru the handlebars as the WORKS don't allow that to be transmitted past the Shocks.
The reload adjusters are a Nice option, the Remote res'es are nice too but between these two options, go with the preload adjusters. This way you can fine tune the fronts & rear shocks on any ride you go on. The preload adjusters DO affect the shock settings.
In my case, I didn't have the extra $$$'s at 1st for the whole complete pkg, so the Basic WORKS set-up was used, excellent results, unblievable difference between the Stock Shocks & the WORKS.
If you get the WORKS, call WORKS to order, this way they can set-up your WORKS Shocks just For You.
#7
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
With the Steeler AT's w/preloads the price will be $1000, maybe $1100, I don't recall what the Cost option is for the Preloads.
You won't be disappointed in the outcome.
Some others have installed a Steering stabilzer, it will help for what you are concerned with.
It has been a while since this Topic hasbeen discussed, so u may have to do a search on the Steering Stabilzers.
You won't be disappointed in the outcome.
Some others have installed a Steering stabilzer, it will help for what you are concerned with.
It has been a while since this Topic hasbeen discussed, so u may have to do a search on the Steering Stabilzers.
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#8
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
The reason I sold the Brute was basically that I didn't have the budget to maintain two 4x4s that I use exclusively for play. Also the Brute just wasn't holding up to my level of punishment as well as my older Grizzly did as it's been in the shop for several items that were all fixed under my extended warranty (4WD actuator failure, KEBC engine braking controller failure, front diff case failure where a big chunk broke off the top of the diff case). Also with about 2400 miles on it I was already on my 3rd belt.
My old Grizzly with about 3800 miles on it is still on the original belt and has not had any problems that could be classified as not normal wear items. I still keep it around because I use it for dragging logs out of the woods for processing into firewood. I never used the Brute for that kind of work and I won't do it with the new Grizzly either. The old Grizzly is also used as a back-up play quad.
The new Grizzly definitely doesn't have the raw power that my Brute Force had. It doesn't handle as well as my Brute did with the Elka shocks on it either. However it is very pleasant to ride and it is the perfect machine for slow techical trails yet it's still a lot of fun pushing it hard on well established trails like on the Hatfield McCoy system of WV. The new Grizzly has a cushier ride and is effortless to steer, plus the power steering also has a steering dampening effect. I like the instant-on pushbutton 4WD system on the Grizzly better than the toggle switch and roll forward up to 10 feet before it hooks up that the Brute had. Finally I really wanted a 4x4 with fuel injection. So I felt that the 700 Grizzly is a better over-all machine than my Brute Force was...
My old Grizzly with about 3800 miles on it is still on the original belt and has not had any problems that could be classified as not normal wear items. I still keep it around because I use it for dragging logs out of the woods for processing into firewood. I never used the Brute for that kind of work and I won't do it with the new Grizzly either. The old Grizzly is also used as a back-up play quad.
The new Grizzly definitely doesn't have the raw power that my Brute Force had. It doesn't handle as well as my Brute did with the Elka shocks on it either. However it is very pleasant to ride and it is the perfect machine for slow techical trails yet it's still a lot of fun pushing it hard on well established trails like on the Hatfield McCoy system of WV. The new Grizzly has a cushier ride and is effortless to steer, plus the power steering also has a steering dampening effect. I like the instant-on pushbutton 4WD system on the Grizzly better than the toggle switch and roll forward up to 10 feet before it hooks up that the Brute had. Finally I really wanted a 4x4 with fuel injection. So I felt that the 700 Grizzly is a better over-all machine than my Brute Force was...
#9
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
Originally posted by: 2TV
The reason I sold the Brute was basically that I didn't have the budget to maintain two 4x4s that I use exclusively for play. Also the Brute just wasn't holding up to my level of punishment as well as my older Grizzly did as it's been in the shop for several items that were all fixed under my extended warranty (4WD actuator failure, KEBC engine braking controller failure, front diff case failure where a big chunk broke off the top of the diff case). Also with about 2400 miles on it I was already on my 3rd belt.
My old Grizzly with about 3800 miles on it is still on the original belt and has not had any problems that could be classified as not normal wear items. I still keep it around because I use it for dragging logs out of the woods for processing into firewood. I never used the Brute for that kind of work and I won't do it with the new Grizzly either. The old Grizzly is also used as a back-up play quad.
The new Grizzly definitely doesn't have the raw power that my Brute Force had. It doesn't handle as well as my Brute did with the Elka shocks on it either. However it is very pleasant to ride and it is the perfect machine for slow techical trails yet it's still a lot of fun pushing it hard on well established trails like on the Hatfield McCoy system of WV. The new Grizzly has a cushier ride and is effortless to steer, plus the power steering also has a steering dampening effect. I like the instant-on pushbutton 4WD system on the Grizzly better than the toggle switch and roll forward up to 10 feet before it hooks up that the Brute had. Finally I really wanted a 4x4 with fuel injection. So I felt that the 700 Grizzly is a better over-all machine than my Brute Force was...
The reason I sold the Brute was basically that I didn't have the budget to maintain two 4x4s that I use exclusively for play. Also the Brute just wasn't holding up to my level of punishment as well as my older Grizzly did as it's been in the shop for several items that were all fixed under my extended warranty (4WD actuator failure, KEBC engine braking controller failure, front diff case failure where a big chunk broke off the top of the diff case). Also with about 2400 miles on it I was already on my 3rd belt.
My old Grizzly with about 3800 miles on it is still on the original belt and has not had any problems that could be classified as not normal wear items. I still keep it around because I use it for dragging logs out of the woods for processing into firewood. I never used the Brute for that kind of work and I won't do it with the new Grizzly either. The old Grizzly is also used as a back-up play quad.
The new Grizzly definitely doesn't have the raw power that my Brute Force had. It doesn't handle as well as my Brute did with the Elka shocks on it either. However it is very pleasant to ride and it is the perfect machine for slow techical trails yet it's still a lot of fun pushing it hard on well established trails like on the Hatfield McCoy system of WV. The new Grizzly has a cushier ride and is effortless to steer, plus the power steering also has a steering dampening effect. I like the instant-on pushbutton 4WD system on the Grizzly better than the toggle switch and roll forward up to 10 feet before it hooks up that the Brute had. Finally I really wanted a 4x4 with fuel injection. So I felt that the 700 Grizzly is a better over-all machine than my Brute Force was...
#10
OK - what aftermarket shocks should I put on my bf750???
the high end Elkas will set you back over $2000. there are several levels of Elkas on ebay most of the time, but there are also lots of other shocks out there for a lot less. i'm not a shock expert, as i have just had stock and Elka shocks, but good shocks will make a huge difference. i now just drive straight through stuff that i had to carefully pick a line through before. i also noticed that while i just putz along and take it easy, i find that with the Elkas on, i go faster than most of the other trail traffic on the nasty, rocky trails around here and is with total comfort and controll. i assume that the other aftermarket shocks will provide similar results, depending on how they are set up.
the 4x4 system on the brute is almost instant (less than 2 feet) if you remove the KEBS, and this also eliminates any problem the engine brake may cause. the brute is very easy to maintain with a little attention to it. it is not maintenance free, but high performance never is.
monty
the 4x4 system on the brute is almost instant (less than 2 feet) if you remove the KEBS, and this also eliminates any problem the engine brake may cause. the brute is very easy to maintain with a little attention to it. it is not maintenance free, but high performance never is.
monty