20mph stutter after DJ kit install on BF650, but I think I fixed it!!!
#1
Yep, installed a DJ kit on my 06 BF650 after a HMF pipe. I had a K&N installed at the time and everthing I read said to re-jet, so I did. I put the recommended 136/140 jets in per DynoJet. Reset the mixture screws out 3 just like they said and took it out on the trails. 1st impressions were at WOT = YEA BOI! Idled perfect, everything seemed fine. That is until I was puttin' along the trails doing 20-25mph when I noticed a nasty stutter/stumble. Gave it WOT and all was well. I scratched my head all day.
Got home and emailed DJ about their kit. They told me to recheck my needle settings and make sure everything was how it should be. Ya ya ya I said, but then they tell me that since I've got the K&N installed too, I should think about upping the jets to a 140/144. OK I said and ripped the carbs out once again.
Needles where fine, e-clip on #5 w/ 2 spacers. Rejetted to the 140/144 like they said and put her all back together making sure all my vacc lines were where they're supposed to be and all was perfect. Took it out again to a different spot and SAME THING! Nothing changed, WOT felt a lil better, but I could smell I was running WAAAAAAY rich. Spark arrestor was black black black.
OK, so I decided to pull the lid off my airbox and see if that made a difference. Result? SOB, she's alive now! No more stutter, didn't run as hot (fans used to run forever after a hard thrashing) She runs/pulls like a cat on fire!
Now for my question. Do you think I'm hurting anything with my jetting and no air lid? I figure I'm maxed on jetting, well with what I was given, and the bike seems to be loving every ounce of the new power so I'm not changing anything. I think my belt is hating the power and 27" mudzillas though hehe, time for some clutch springs I think before I really do some damage.
Got home and emailed DJ about their kit. They told me to recheck my needle settings and make sure everything was how it should be. Ya ya ya I said, but then they tell me that since I've got the K&N installed too, I should think about upping the jets to a 140/144. OK I said and ripped the carbs out once again.
Needles where fine, e-clip on #5 w/ 2 spacers. Rejetted to the 140/144 like they said and put her all back together making sure all my vacc lines were where they're supposed to be and all was perfect. Took it out again to a different spot and SAME THING! Nothing changed, WOT felt a lil better, but I could smell I was running WAAAAAAY rich. Spark arrestor was black black black.
OK, so I decided to pull the lid off my airbox and see if that made a difference. Result? SOB, she's alive now! No more stutter, didn't run as hot (fans used to run forever after a hard thrashing) She runs/pulls like a cat on fire!
Now for my question. Do you think I'm hurting anything with my jetting and no air lid? I figure I'm maxed on jetting, well with what I was given, and the bike seems to be loving every ounce of the new power so I'm not changing anything. I think my belt is hating the power and 27" mudzillas though hehe, time for some clutch springs I think before I really do some damage.
#3
I'm not sure about your elevation but in my opinion your needles are way off. I have never heard of anybody using shims with DJ needles, only with stock needles. I have the nearly the same setup as you as far as pipe and k&n and I had the same problem with mine with the DJ needles set on the 5th notch with no shims. I have my needles set at the 4th notch now and it runs great. Try adjusting your needles to the 4th or 5th notch with no shims. The needles wont change your wot performance only the part throttle performance. If your quad runs good at wot your mains should be fine. Did you do a plug read?
#4
Oh, about the lid. The only problem I see with that is you will not be able to go through as deep of water because the airbox itself is lower than the factory snorkle. I also assumed you have the bf650 sra by the way.
#5
My needles are on the 4th notch w/ 2 washers (shims). Wouldn't taking the shims out and leaving it on the 4th notch make it run even richer? I can always try moving the e-clip to the 5th (last) notch w/o shims then add them as needed.
As for doing a plug read, no I did not. I figured the black soot in my HMF endcap was clue #1 I was on the rich side. Not to mention the constant scent of raw fuel in the air. I used to tune turbo cars with upgraded injectors, I've seen my share of pig rich tunes.
Thanks for the advice! BTW, how big of gain did you notice with the dyna cdi? What Dalton springs are you running? I'm sure I need something heavy duty with 27" zillas. (Yes I'm also sra ;p )
As for doing a plug read, no I did not. I figured the black soot in my HMF endcap was clue #1 I was on the rich side. Not to mention the constant scent of raw fuel in the air. I used to tune turbo cars with upgraded injectors, I've seen my share of pig rich tunes.
Thanks for the advice! BTW, how big of gain did you notice with the dyna cdi? What Dalton springs are you running? I'm sure I need something heavy duty with 27" zillas. (Yes I'm also sra ;p )
#6
The way I understand it is that the further out the needle, the richer it is. So by moving from the 5th to the 4th should lean it out by allowing the needle to seat deeper into the needle jet and therefore letting less fuel in. Do you have two shims under or over the e clip? Under the eclip would really pull out the needles and make it run really rich. I have read about other people putting the DJ spacers under the eclip on acciedent.
#7
i also had trouble and ending up putting 1 shim under the stock needle. i'm begining to think the 5 position is only good for k&n and wide open muffler with less than 1000 ft. my 650 is stone stock. i've ordered an hmf and will try with the dyno needles with #4 again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



