Hi , Im new to this site and it's been fun reading up on this 05 brute force 750 I just purchased I wish I would have heard about this site before I brought an 2005 brute because I would have gotten an 06 for the better haddleing. But the issu today is that I had purchased an 03 Yamaha grizzly 660 and the machine felt great but I'm a big motor junkie and had to have the best so I heard that this Kawi kicks butt so I sold the grizzly and purchased the brute with no test rides or nothing but now this machine just don't seem like it has the power that I expected. Now this machine is stock motor with 27' itp rims and tires , some one who I ride with said the the tires would take up a lot of that power but the grizz had the same and i'm not saying it was better but to me they feel about the same. So my question is how could I get that neck breaking action from my brute 750 with out spending a grip in it.
If I havre to dump a lot of money in this machine my next step is to sell and purchase a yamaha grizzly 700.


And also what is the problem with the 4x4 not engadeing in reverse, that sucks!!!!

 

The 27" tires will have some affect on the Brute over the stock 25" 2 ply tires, but not that much. I ran 26" tires on my Brute all the time. You should be able to put the Brute in low, punch the throttle and the front end should reach for the sky very quickly (if you have traction). If it doesn't then something is wrong (perhaps the belt is worn or not adjusted properly).

That is the way the 4WD system works on the Brute, it will not engage while in reverse. You have to be in a forward "gear" (high or low) and roll forward some after switching it to 4WD for it to hook up. After it hooks up then you can shift into reverse and you will still have 4WD. I didn't like this system either especially after being used to the Grizzly's push button and instant 4WD engagement (in forward or reverse).

I had a Dynatek ignition module (a plug and play replacement for the stock control module) on my Brute and that gives you a little boost in performance which I found amounted to approximately a 2 quad length advantage in a 400' drag.

I sold my 750 after acquiring the 700 Grizzly, I feel the 700 Grizzly is a better machine overall and I was happy enough with it to let the Brute go. However if power is your thing, you wouldn't want to give up the 750 for the 700 Grizzly as the Brute is noticably stronger. Perhaps what you need is a Can-Am 800!...

 

-Not all the 06 750's "handle better" / steer easier ... including mine.
-With 27 BigHorns (that measure 28") .....from a stand still, my 750 stands straight up.... even in High.
With the stock tires I'd smoke 660 Grizzlies with stock tires off the line & all the way up. Now the stock Grizz somewhat stays with me with my big meats on.
-Want neckbreaking action again...run 25's or 26's.
-Where did the idea the 700 Grizz was soo powerful come from ?
-Yeah. 4X4 / delay sucks. I"ll agree with you on that one.

 

The can-am 800 would be the last bike I would purchase not because it's a bad quad but I think it;s over rated and too expensive. I have been a die hard yamaha fan for the longest but wanted to change so that's why I purchased the brute, but I think I going to try o0ut sum 26' tires with a lower profile to them. But that dynatek unit you mentioned were could I look for that unit at. And how could I check the tension in my belt?

 

hey supperbash is there alot of rideing in Long Island?
I was up in Riverhead a couple of months ago and seen some nice trails.
But as for the 700 gizz I don't think it has a lot of power but with that fuel injection it make it alot easier to upgrade.
That's another Idea it would be nice to have fuel injected brute.

 

If you do a Yahoo search for "Dynatek" you will find the company link in short order - the model you need retails for $209. There are similar products available from other companies as well, but my only personal experience has been with the Dynatek.

As for belt adjustment procedures, I'd recommend going to Nyroc's site (nyrocatv) for a wealth of tech tips and information (including belt maintenance). Also here is where you can find more info on the Kawasaki belt adjustment procedure...

 

I would reccomend the Copperhead CDI. More money compared to a Dynatek, but worth every penny. Everything is plug and play, and cdi if fully programmable (timing maps)
http://www.velocitydevices.com/


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thanks for the info on the copper head mod but I went on the site and they said it's on back order.
aND WITH THESE UNITS DO YOU HAVE TO DYNO THE BIKE when using a unit like that .

 

No, just unplug the stock unit (under the seat) and put the other unit it it's place. The instructions with the Dynatek indicate that you should check the jetting, but I found no need to change mine. I did have to adjust the idle setting though as it idled faster with the new ignition system. Also it doesn't hurt to carry your stock ignition as a spare (I had mine in the truck so it was never too far away from where I was) and if you take your quad to the shop, unplug it and put the stock unit back in just to avoid any potential hassle if warranty work is involved (it depends on the dealer)...

 

I was looking on ebay today and noticed a moose cdi controller and want to know if you knew anything about those units.