96 or 97 KLF 220 sat for some time as the owner could not get the starter to work. The green light would come on and one could pull start it.
I put a new battery in it and found the 20 amp fuse blown. Promply blew the new fuse. If I disconnect the starter cable from whatever it is that holds the fuse holder it still blows the fuse. I have the owners manual but was wondering if anyone has any idea where to start tracking the short down. The small plastic connector that covers the fuse has three wires and as soon as that connector is connected is when the fuse blows. Any assistance or a wiring diagram will be appreciated. tom/idaho

 

The owners manual doesnt have a wiring diagram? Oh, ok, "Owner's Manual",,, not repair or service manual, lol, right? I have a couple manuals that have a diagram for the 220.

The fuse connects the big wire from the battery to the white wire. The white wire goes to the accessory terminals, the ignition switch, and the rectifier. Who knows what happens inside the rectifier and the acc terminals dont go anywhere (they hang loose unconnected). So, that leaves the ignition switch. The ignition switch turns the white wire to brown and it goes to the green and red lamps that you said already work. The brown wire also goes to the starter circuit relay (not the starter relay) and the lighting switch. In other words, the short could be anywhere. You're going to have to trace all the wires and make sure none is bare and touching any metal,,, unless there is something obvious like a busted ignition switch or something. Let me know if there's something else I can do to help.

btw, the starter circuit relay is the thing that keeps it from starting in gear.

 

Thank you for your help. I found the short in the white wire you talked about.
Two more problems have come up.
1. The round solenoid that is conected to the pos battery cable and then goes to the starter does not appear to work. I can jumper aroud it and the motor cranks as the starter button will not activate it.
2. With the key on I can crank the motor by jumping around the solenoid, but I get no spark at the plug. The kill switch by the starter button is in the run position.
Do you think the problem is the solenoid, starter button or another bad wire from the starter button.
I tried a new plug and still no spark.
Thanks again for your help, Tom/Idaho

 

1) The round solenoid might still work.
2) First, lets disable the starter circuit relay. Follow the steps in this thread http://forums.atvconnection.co...catid=9&threadid=98232 and get back to me with the results. Its a good mod to do anyway,,, no reason to have to find neutral to start the engine.

If you want to test the starter solenoid, remove it from the quad. Next, jump the black wire on the solenoid to the + on the battery. Jump the black with yellow tracer to the - on the battery. The solenoid should click and you should feel it move inside. Be careful making sparks over a battery, the gases that come out of a battery can explode.

 

More information.
Now the green light is very dim.
The fuse holder has three wires. White goes to ign switch (which has voltage); blk/yel goes to ground; blk goes to 'relay (?)' that mounts beside fuse holder which has voltage coming into it. This blk one should have voltage when the starter button is pushed in order to active the starter. Right? Is there any way I can get a fax/email of the wiring diaghram?
I appreciate your help-----You don't have an antique tractor I could maybe help you on, do you? tom/idaho

 

I found your post of this morning after I sent the update. Am going to try your suggestions right now. Thanks again, tom/idaho

 

I did the trick to eliminate the starter circuit relay. Nothing happened.
I tested the starter solenoid as you suggested and nothing happens. No click, no nothing. So, I'm assuming the relay is bad, or is it? If I take a hot wire from the battery and jump it to the black wire in the fuse block I can make it crank over. Or, is that the same as jumping the terminals on the solenoid?
Shouldn't the black wire in the fuse block have voltage when the starter button is pushed in order to activate the solenoid? This one does not.
Even if it's in neutral (or the relay bypassed), key and green light on and the engine cranking by jumping the solenoid , shouldn't one have spark at the plug?
Once the voltage leaves the ign switch it has to activate something to get a spark and then go to the starter button. Right? I checked the two wires coming out of the switch and both have voltage with the key on.
Older engines are much simpler. Thanks again, tom/idaho

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tom/idaho

I did the trick to eliminate the starter circuit relay. Nothing happened.

I tested the starter solenoid as you suggested and nothing happens. No click, no nothing. So, I'm assuming the relay is bad, or is it? If I take a hot wire from the battery and jump it to the black wire in the fuse block I can make it crank over. Or, is that the same as jumping the terminals on the solenoid?</end quote></div>


Oh ok,,, I'm goofy... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] The starter solenoid is not a solenoid I guess. In 1996 they changed it from a solenoid to a relay. Therefore, no clicking sounds or movement inside. Its just a relay. If you want to check it, you'll need an ohm meter or some way to see if the big terminals have continuity when you put the black and black/yellow wire to the battery as I said before. But it appears that it works because you said , "If I take a hot wire from the battery and jump it to the black wire in the fuse block I can make it crank over." That sounds like the same test.


<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tom/idaho
Shouldn't the black wire in the fuse block have voltage when the starter button is pushed in order to activate the solenoid? This one does not.</end quote></div>

Yes, it should.


<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tom/idaho
Even if it's in neutral (or the relay bypassed), key and green light on and the engine cranking by jumping the solenoid , shouldn't one have spark at the plug?</end quote></div>

I would think so,,, as long as the kill switch is in the run position. Ordinarily, the starter will not turn if the kill switch is off. If the yellow/red wire from the CDI ever sees ground, the engine and the starter die. Both the kill switch and the key switch make it see ground. Make sure that wire doesn't see ground. Maybe one of those switches is messed up. (since you are bypassing everything with jumpers and still no spark).


<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tom/idaho
Once the voltage leaves the ign switch it has to activate something to get a spark and then go to the starter button. Right? I checked the two wires coming out of the switch and both have voltage with the key on. </end quote></div>

It has to activate the CDI. At this point, either you have a bad switch somewhere or a wire that is disconnected,,, or you have a bad CDI or rectifier maybe. Where was the white wire shorted? Do you think that could have damaged something?

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tom/idaho
Older engines are much simpler. Thanks again, tom/idaho </end quote></div>


Yeah, but I don't long for the days of points. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Btw, I don't know if you noticed but I sent you a PM.