I have a 1992 Kawie Bayou 300 (KLF300) that was running perfectly before I lost the key and took it to our local locksmith to have new keys made. As I went to pick it up it had no power whatsoever and the guy said "oh yeah I think the battery died while we were working on it".
Like an idiot I paid and loaded it up only to find when I got it home that the main fuse was blown. I replaced the main fuse and the minute I turned the ignition switch to the on position it fried the main 30 amp fuse by the battery.
I unhooked the regulator rectifier, installed new fuse and tried again with the same result . Finally I swapped batteries with another ATV that I had in the garage, tried again and blew fuse for the third time.
I've inspected as best I can, disconnected and reconnected all ignition connections including disassembly of the ignition switch which looked fine inside.
As I spoke with the locksmith later they admitted that they had tilted it up on the back end in order to get up under you work on the ignition switch which I'm guessing shifted something or pinched something in the process.
My questions are as follows:
As the fuse blows it seems to get unusually hot in doing so. I don't have a lot of experience so it may be a typical occurrence but it just seems weird to me. As a matter of fact I jumped The fuse with a wire and clamps and thought I was going to catch the garage on fire...
Also, I know that the fuse only blows as I turn on the ignition switch, could someone suggest a starting place that might short cut a couple of dry runs?
I do have a multimeter but I am clueless as to how to use it other than simple battery readings, etc.
I am willing to learn but can anyone give me any starting counsel?
On my multimeter it has various settings for DC volts, AC volts, and ohms and the instructions say to set it on the lowest possible setting that won't be exceeded during the test.
How do I know which setting is correct for typical ATV electrical troubleshooting?

Any help is greatly appreciated gang…

 

You have a short somewhere. I would be suspicious it came from the work that was just done, but could easily be part of the wiring harness that has rubbed and chafed against the frame and is now bare wire and grounding out.

 

Double check that the battery terminals are on the right way round.

The KLF300 is unusual in having a 3 wire ignition switch but I would guess that, if they wired it back up wrongly, it will blow fuses.

I don't have a KLF diagram at home but have just checked a Lakota diagram and it is downright perverse with a red to the fuse turning into a red/black from it but then turning into a white mid harness, which then goes to the ignition switch and regulator. As the fault only comes on when you switch on, it will be one of the wires from the switch, but this gets complicated, so a diagram makes life a lot easier.

 

Very well, will find wiring diagram today and get busy checking continuity, further inspecting for rubs, etc..
Thanks everyone, will update as I have success...

 

Well, I printed off wiring diagram, pulled all the plastic and went to work.

It turned out to be exactly as I had suspected- these Bozos at key shop had ignition wires all crossed up up front causing the fuses to blow.
Started right up, runs like a classic.

Thanks a bunch gang....