Newbie 2002 prairie 400
#1
#2
Here is some owner reviews, this on is on a 2000 thats 10years old with 6000miles.2000 Kawasaki Prairie 400 4X4 ATVs - Awesome!!
Seems like a do anything ATV to me. Kawasaki does not sell the most ATVs but you do not hear much problems about them either. Once they have low range and 4wd its hard to go wrong.
Heres some more reviews, its a 1999 but still more or less the same machine.Vehicle Reviews for 1999 Kawasaki Prairie 400 4X4
Seems like a do anything ATV to me. Kawasaki does not sell the most ATVs but you do not hear much problems about them either. Once they have low range and 4wd its hard to go wrong.
Heres some more reviews, its a 1999 but still more or less the same machine.Vehicle Reviews for 1999 Kawasaki Prairie 400 4X4
#3
I've got a 2000 Prairie 400 4x4. Been a great machine overall. The primary clutch sheaves were wavy after about 3000 miles so I replaced whole primary with a Comet. I replaced the belt with a Carlisle and I believe I had to shim the secondary out a little.
I'd check the diff fluids to make sure they are not contaminated with water. I've had water in my rear and replaced the diff housing seal.
I'd also inquire about whether brake side rubber seal has been regreased. You have to disassemble to grease.
Last year I had trouble with the shifter **** not wanting to move freely in freezing temps. I disassembled mine and it needed new grease, and at the same time I removed the pin that prevents it from going into Low or Reverse without pushing the handle button. Just have to be careful to make sure you are stopped before changing gears but I really like it. I know it is riskier now that it might get accidentally knocked into another gear but it sure works slick.
Taking the clutch cover off is a pain. I drilled a hole in the plastic bodywork near the upper rear for easier access to that bolt so I don't have to remove any plastic bodywork to get cover off, but the floorboard does need to come off and that brake spring is the biggest pain of the whole process to get it back on.
Also, inspect the rubber drive shaft boots for tears. Front axles, and there are 2 on the drive shaft. I tore the one by the engine once when a stick got jammed in there but caught it right away and replaced it.
There is a slip-joint in the middle of drive shaft and if that's never been greased it may be rusty.
Valve adjustments, oil changes, etc. Ask about those.
I'd check the diff fluids to make sure they are not contaminated with water. I've had water in my rear and replaced the diff housing seal.
I'd also inquire about whether brake side rubber seal has been regreased. You have to disassemble to grease.
Last year I had trouble with the shifter **** not wanting to move freely in freezing temps. I disassembled mine and it needed new grease, and at the same time I removed the pin that prevents it from going into Low or Reverse without pushing the handle button. Just have to be careful to make sure you are stopped before changing gears but I really like it. I know it is riskier now that it might get accidentally knocked into another gear but it sure works slick.
Taking the clutch cover off is a pain. I drilled a hole in the plastic bodywork near the upper rear for easier access to that bolt so I don't have to remove any plastic bodywork to get cover off, but the floorboard does need to come off and that brake spring is the biggest pain of the whole process to get it back on.
Also, inspect the rubber drive shaft boots for tears. Front axles, and there are 2 on the drive shaft. I tore the one by the engine once when a stick got jammed in there but caught it right away and replaced it.
There is a slip-joint in the middle of drive shaft and if that's never been greased it may be rusty.
Valve adjustments, oil changes, etc. Ask about those.
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jrooker6
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04-23-2016 07:36 PM
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