300 Bayou won't rev up
#11
Are you going to buy an OEM, or a new Chinese unit?
I am rebuilding an 87 KLF300, and my carb is unreparable. I bought
a new Chinese carb, and got it running. Not sure I recommend them,
at $80.
BTW, it seems the 86-04 KLF300 4x2 may be the only quad made with a
rear differential.
I am rebuilding an 87 KLF300, and my carb is unreparable. I bought
a new Chinese carb, and got it running. Not sure I recommend them,
at $80.
BTW, it seems the 86-04 KLF300 4x2 may be the only quad made with a
rear differential.
#12
#15
My Chinese carb is working pretty well on my Bayou now.
#16
I just pulled the vacuum valve again and I see another piece broken off of it. Once again, it's not in the intake anywhere so I assume it got chewed up and passed through the motor. Hopefully it hasn't done any damage. I would assume it would have made quite a bit of noise when it got sucked in but my brother swears he didn't hear any odd noises when he was driving it.
I'll know more when I pull the top end to replace the rings and gaskets in the spring.
I'll know more when I pull the top end to replace the rings and gaskets in the spring.
#17
#18
The Chinese carb I mentioned above is sold as a replacement for the
OEM carb on either the Honda TRX300FW, or the KLF300s. On the
latter, the inlet and outlet diameters are off, so custom work is
necessary for the Kaw, as I did. I also have a TRX300FW, but I did
not do a direct comparison on that machine, which is the one I use
around my property.
You may pay more for a used and usable TRX carb, vs. the new Chinese
unit. Note that the Honda carb has a primer pump, which is nice if it
works. The Chinese unit also has one, but the OEM KLF carb does not.
My TRX300 carb's primer pump diaphragm was bad, and a new one is
pricey, so I bypassed it. Works fine, but it does not get very cold here.
Side-by-side pix here:
#19
I picked up a good diaphragm and slide and put it in yesterday. It started and ran for a couple seconds and then quit. I tried to start it again and it acted like the starter locked up. I had to turn the motor with a socket on the end of the crank and it freed up easily but wouldn't start. It seemed to have very low compression and is clunking when I crank it over. I tested the compression with my tester and the needle doesn't move at all. It cranks over almost as fast with the plug in as with it out.
I thought it might have jumped it's timing but I just checked it and it's dead on. The only thing I haven't had a chance to check is whether the valves are still opening and closing. I had it going a few weeks ago and it sounded fine, it just wouldn't rev up well because of the torn diaphragm. I wonder what could have happened so suddenly? Broken valve? Unfortunately I won't have a chance to tear it down for a couple weeks to find out.
I thought it might have jumped it's timing but I just checked it and it's dead on. The only thing I haven't had a chance to check is whether the valves are still opening and closing. I had it going a few weeks ago and it sounded fine, it just wouldn't rev up well because of the torn diaphragm. I wonder what could have happened so suddenly? Broken valve? Unfortunately I won't have a chance to tear it down for a couple weeks to find out.
#20