Well, he is giving you worst case scenario. Over time the basket will develop grooves and need replacing. I have had multiple sport quads do exactly what you describe and usually you can even just get away with replacing fibers. You have to mic the steel plates and check for warpage. If they are in tolerance generally no need to replace. The fiber plates are the main wear item in this setup. Auto clutch and manual clutch are pretty similar. You won't know what is truly needed until it is apart, but even if you just threw it back together with new fibers it would be much improved.

 

Your opinion is spot on. The bike needs new fibers and plates. Im confident the new fibers and plates will freshen up.My centrifical clutch had grooves in it. I did not mic it the grooves. Maybe 10% of the metal drum? I did lightly sand the surface of the centrifical clutch while out. 4 new springs of will help the fibers and plates grab. Dealer agreed new springs should be installed to. I did not mic the springs but the old ones were smaller than the new ones.

 

Thanks for the info.

I don't like worst case scenario. Too pricey. lol

When you say mic the steel plates I assume you mean machine them. Is this something I can do? pretty sure if special tools are required I don't have them. How do you check for warpage? Do you just eyeball them or are special tools required for that? What do you mean by intolerance? Are you referring to the thickness of the plates?

The prices I have found so far on the fiber plates aren't too bad & even if it is not the problem on a 22 year old bike they must be worn. So it can't hurt to change them.

So what am I looking for to tell me what's the problem when I take it apart?

 

So the best thing to do is just replace fibers, plates & springs?

 

This is what I need right?

EBC DRC Clutch KIT Kawasaki Bayou KLF 300 Lakota Sport KEF 300 DRC233 | eBay

 

Well it sounds like you want to keep this machine. Iam as confident as I can be without being a pro mechanic. This should address your problem. Iam not that familiar with centrical clutches as I wish I was. Mine was worn as my previous post indicated. I have no slipping now. I have a very good dealership here in phx I use and they give their opinions when I get stumped. Mine slipped in 3 and 4th gear bad and at low rpms. So I if I lugged the motor it would slip almost all the time. If wrapped out all the gears running at the top of the power curve i had no slipping. I like to trail ride and I do have a tendency almost to lug the motor. These machines are designed and geared for low end pull.
Give your dealer a call or ill get you their name and number so you can talk to them. I hope I helped. Going to forest to ride in the pines tommorow. Take care. Mike

 

As long as I don't find anything that is way too costly to fix I would like to keep it. I won't use a bike that much & my finances don't justify spending big $$$ on a newer one. So if I can fix the issues with this one at a reasonable cost it will be perfect for me. I can do most of the work myself too.

I don't have much experience working on ATV's but I have worked on my own vehicles for years so I'm used to wrenching. I'm pretty good at figuring stuff out too. A bit of guidance at times never hurts though.

 

For $70, go for the whole kit. Chances are this has never been replaced and needs it. If this doesn't do it I would look for other sources for the centrifugal clutch. Dealers tend to charge a premium.

 

Parden me I missed this info. Yes, this kit will work but I have not used this brand. Its decent price. Im a factory parts person. Not every thing but most parts. This just my opinion. And I respect that most persons here on this forum are fine with after market parts. At 70.00 dollars thats a good deal. Make sure the gasket kit comes with it. They a paper type so you will need one. Let me know how it turns out.
mike


UOTE=Simone0414;3289843]This is what I need right?

EBC DRC Clutch KIT Kawasaki Bayou KLF 300 Lakota Sport KEF 300 DRC233 | eBay[/QUOTE]

 

You will have to remove the cover and take a look. All the above is speculation, and until you see if the centrifugal clutch has had it, you won't know if you need to spend big money or not.

The reference to mic was micrometer, you check the thickness of the fiber plates, if they are within tolerance they just need roughing with emery cloth, also check spring lengths.

The centrifugal clutch works until the shoes wear down to the metal, then they slip. A badly grooved drum will make the new shoes wear faster, but on a machine that is not used much it may be more cost effective to just fit new shoes. Very few aftermarket suppliers make centrifugal shoes so you will probably have to get genuine Kawasaki parts. They may make you buy the whole shoe assembly, Suzuki do.

It is worth getting a manual for this job, the tolerances for plate thickness etc, will be listed and any left hand threads pointed out, one clutch nut will have a LH thread.