2005 360 Prairie 4X4 camo
I am mainly looking to confirm some things from people who already may know. I was riding the ATV yester day when it suddenly would not go into gear. Brought it home and this morning cracked open the access to the belt and clutch assembly. Now as I understand it, the primary drive is supposed to be expanded when in idle until you give it gas and then is clamps down on the belt. Yes? Mine just stays clamped and as such I cannot get the gears to engage, just grinding. So, sounds a clutch repair to me. Correct. Also, hear it may be an actuator, but the actuator makes the whizzing sound I could see it rotating once I had to cover off, Is this what it is supposed to do? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dave

 

I was wrong, the clutch does moved back and forth as I give it gas to engage the belt. The trouble is that it does not disengage to as much as I have seen in some of the videos. Any ideas?

 

A lot of times belt dust and dirt can cause clutch sticking and good cleaning with an air gun in an open area can help.If it still sticks then other things are the main clutch bushing(92028) can wear down,springs can get weak,etc. 2005 Kawasaki PRAIRIE 360 4X4 (KVF360-A3) Drive Converter | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

 

So I got into the clutch and noticed that one of the weight-ramps id hanging up which does not allow the spring to retract the clutch all the way hence it cannot go into gear. My question would be if I rebuilt the clutch could I just replace one of the weights (I am guessing this may solve the problem as I could not tell why it was hanging up). Or, a ATV place around here said they would sell me another one for $375.00. I am trying to weigh the cost of parts as opposed to just buying the other clutch against one another.
Your input would be helpful.

 

Is the counter weight binding against the clutch shaft? If so replacing the weight probably wont help as usually this is caused by a worn out bushing. Causes the clutch to wobble and weights can stick against the shaft. Replace this one and it or another of the counter weights will do the same thing again most likely. Had that same thing with Polaris clutches when bushings were worn too far.Probably a lot cheaper just to take it off and have it rebuilt as the bushing is less than 8 bucks,plus have them replace any worn buttons. Should be way cheaper than 375 bucks to repair it.

 

So, if I replace the bushing would I have to replace the weights. Also, does the bushing come out easily and would you also put in a new spring?

 

Looks similar to Polaris clutches and more than likely best to have the bushing pressed out and a new one pressed in. Weights unless damaged usually don't need replacing.Bushings and guide buttons on the spider are the main wear items. Shops have the necessary tools to rebuild one and shouldn't cost that much. Just call a shop and get a price on repair.

 

Had clutch looked at by a shop and they noted that it needs several things replaced such as the bushing, weights . . Basically said that it needs everything replaced and rebuilt and that it would be cheaper to just get a new one. This is fine if it will take care of the issue. My question would be is it likely that the clutch just needs replacing or is there another issue I should be concerned with that may have contributed to the clutch damage?

 

Weights usually last the life of the clutch if not damaged in anyway. Bushings,spider buttons are the main wear items in any cvt clutch. If this has been going on for some time,buttons worn down to nothing, the spider ramps in the clutch itself can become grooved to where replacing buttons may not help it that much even if you replace the bushings.One thing about Kawasaki is that at least you can buy the inner and outer sheaths separate,but again add labor and addition parts and it can cost as much as a new one to repair it. OR possible that the dealer would rather sell you a new clutch rather than work on one? Some dealers are like that also.. If you can't inspect the clutch or know what to look for as far as wear points then it's up to you if you just want to spring for a complete new clutch. Meanwhile don't over look the rear clutch also as it takes as much abuse as the drive clutch does and may need to be looked at.

 

I know this is an older thread, but I am experiencing the same issues. I appreciate the advice and experience shared. My question is, which part in the exploded view of the clutch are the "buttons"? I would like to take the clutch off of mine and rebuild it myself. Based on videos I have seen this looks very doable.

Thanks for the help.