The voltage should be 13.5v to 14.5v when the engine is running. Often, max charge is at just over idle speed, so don't expect a continuous rise with revs to the 14.5v. If it isn't charging, we usually fit a new voltage reg, putting it back on the shelf if it doesn't cure it, but you can (sort of) check the stator by disconnecting the regulator plug and checking you get the same resistance between the three phases of the wires from the alternator, and that they are NOT earthed. You can also check they are producing AC voltage with the engine running, but be careful, this can be quite high (up to 100v). Also check you are getting full battery power to the regulator plug, any resistance between battery and regulator causes the reg to stop charging.

 

First of all thanks for all the help merryman.


Second, after getting the bike running on a pull, there's no increase in voltage to batt at all. I got a Haynes manual for it, and the stator ohms out correctly, so I've ordered a rectifier, I suspect the original is still in the bike from 89.


Now, after all the work and parts put into this bad boy, I need an assist on what exactly needs to be working for the elec start to start the bike.


Some of the original wiring is gone and parts are missing, specifically the starter circuit relay. There are no original lights, So other than the BL wire to the relay, I can't tell what's needed. Relay would have BR/LG/BLx2 going to it. original key switch is there. BR wire is lights, LG is for neutral.


I've chased every wire to it's origin and everything save the relay is connected and correct. Is there a way to bypass the relay or is it even needed, without the neutral light or lights in general?

 

oh, the neutral wires from the trans are there but not connected to anything.

 

I haven't got a diagram for the 220, but Lakota has black live when pressed, from starter button to neutral relay, back/yellow from relay to starter solenoid, so to bypass neutral relay you just need to connect these together. I would advise re-connecting the relay if you can, it is all too easy to try to start the bike in gear, which puts extra strain on the starter, and you may set off unexpectedly once it starts.

 

 

Previous post klf220 wiring diagram.

Adding this so it can found in forum search.

 

Right, so it is a bit different to Lakota circuit, but looks like the two black wires to the starter circuit relay could be joined, to by-pass it. Looks like a single phase alternator with exciter coil and AC CDI too.

 

I've gotten the elec starter to work without the starter relay circuit.

Wiring everything as original wiring shows, but using a jumper between either of the top blades on the solenoid to either of the bottom blades.

The wiring diagram shows black, brown, white to solenoid plug which I found when I started working the the bike.

So if the circuit relay was in place and we could see inside it, other than the neutral switch light feed being in it, it also connects brown (top blade) to black (bottom blade) when the original starter switch is pressed.

So I used a small wire to connect the brown top blade to the blade below it and walla ... push starter button bike turns over, and starts.

 

Now this of course means that the bike can start out of neutral, but I suspect it has been able to for some time. When he was starting it with the recoil starter his cousin had instructed him to put the bike in neutral but as there was no way to know if it was in N other than to roll it, it has been able to start in gear for awhile.

I am trying to figure out it i can add the N light back in, so at least you know for sure.

 

That is fairly easy, brown (pos) wire from ignition to one side of warning lamp, light green from neutral/reverse switch on engine to other side of lamp.