Hi All,

I recently purchased a Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A1. It has a knocking engine which was suspected to be a failed conrod - not repaired by the previous owner.

I've bought a service guide, but finding it difficult to source parts here in uk. Does anyone know a good supplier?

What would be your advice on best route to repair? New engine from a second hand source? Investigate and source spares? Are these engine simple, or are there a multitude of pitfalls?

I'm no expert, but i know my way round a set of spanners! Appreciate any comments, or advice.

Thanks
Mike

 

I just bought a 220 that smokes so i have been looking into parts myself.

Gasket sets are available from athena ,winderosa and possibly cometic besides Kawasaki. If the price is close oem gaskets are often your safest bet.
o-ring/seal set= oem K&S or winderosa
pistons are available from Wiseco, Namura and again kawasaki. I am not seeing any higher compression or big bore kits so oem may be good enough.

cam chains = oem or DID
rod kit = oem or Vesrah
valve sets = oem or shindy

Check with Parts Europe dealers you should be able to go online and search their catalogs. In the states Parts unlimited (same company) is the biggest distributor so most shops will have access to their products.

 

I used a Namura piston and top end gasket kit when I rebuilt mine. I've had no trouble with the piston but I found the valve cover gaskets dried out quickly and started leaking.
I bought a "Bronco" brand valve and found the stem began to rust badly when I had the head sitting upside down for a couple days with cheap dollar store alcohol in the combustion chamber to check if there was any leakage past the valves. It was pitted so badly I almost didn't use it. I cleaned it up the best I could with emery cloth and it's been ok for the last couple years but I wouldn't buy that brand again.

 

Aftermarket parts are available in the UK from "ATV City" parts dealers, most ATV repair shops in the UK are ATV City dealers. You can also get parts on line from "Off Road Only," we get Namura and Bronco stuff from them. I don't like Namura piston kits though, the oil rings seem bad to get into the cylinder. The network of Kawasaki dealers can also supply all the bits, though Kawasaki have lost out in the UK, to other makes, since they dropped the KLF range of Quads, and their network has shrunk.

Just one point. I have never known a Quad conrod to fail. All engine knocks I have fixed have been piston and/or little end failure, or valve/cam problems. Take head and cylinder off, in situ, and see what is going on.

 

Thank you all for taking the time to reply.

I have bitten the bullet and stripped her down. Top end, and cylinder off reveals massive play in the conrod - Bearing is totally gone onto the crankpin. I've now gone as far as both side covers off and Flywheel and clutch removed.

I haven't decided the best route to go. New conrod and crankpin is £115 - and the clymer manual makes it sound a difficult job. Having to split the crankcase, pull out the crank and bearings, and then split and balance the crank. All without the proper tools - i'm not sure i can do this. I've priced a second hand complete crank, shipped from US to be approx £75. This will save me the hassle of splitting the crank and rebuilding. I've contacted a local bike shop to see if they could do the split and rebuild of crankcase with new crank.

Failing that I've read you can put case in the oven and freeze the crank - i'll see if mine is easy to pop open and give it a go. If that's not a go-er i can get a second hand complete bottom end for £200 - £250 (UK or US), this is simplest and i can just rebuild from there.

I'm surprised by the number of custom tools needed to do the job. Tusk Crank puller, crank case splitter, gear holder, kawasaki socket wrench, flywheel puller. It all adds up but so far avoided needing any of them.

Thanks for the ATV city link. Looks like i'll go their way for gaskets for rebuild, and timing chain. I wasn't planning on changing the piston as it all looks really good. Is this a false economy?

Appreciate any comments.

Many Thanks
Mike

 

Measure the piston and bore, preferably using micrometers. Size limits should be listed in Clymer. If the bore is OK, the top ring should be removed and placed in the cylinder, about 1/2" down the bore, make sure you remember which side up it goes, check end gap with feeler gauges, over 0.020" and it should get new rings, I would let 0.028" go, but no more.

As I wrote ATV City only sell through dealers, Off Road Only do on-line.

 

Thanks for the advice merryman.

Micrometer and feeler guages are now on order. I'll get this measured.

Got you about atv city and off road only thanks.

​​​​​​
​​​​​​​mike