I've been running a 20/50w this summer and switched to a 10/30w sense it's getting colder.
I've herd mickey dunlap suggest 40w oil for his modded machines.
I see the heavier the oil the longer it takes to warm up.
I've also hierd the heavier oils make the clutch lock harder and lube the top end better.

I don't run synthetics due to clutch slippage that happen to me years ago.

Lets here your opinions. Obviously this should be a searious issue for us all.

 

I have always run 20w50 (winter and summer) in my Lakota. I will be doing a top end job on it before the end of the year and plan on having the head ported and polished. I too would like to hear everyone's opinions on oil. Also, is anyone running an oil cooler on their Lakota? I'm considering adding one when I do my rebuild and would like some opinions.

 

98lakota,

I don't waNT TO GET OFF SUBJECT BUT START SOMETHING TO LET US KNOW ABOUT YOUR MANUAL CLUTCH INSTALL.

 

The manual clutch conversion was done by the previous owner. It has a custom machined lever installed in the clutch cover and all of the auto clutch parts removed. When I rebuild my top-end, I plan to check the clutch plates and I will take some pictures while I have the clutch cover off.

 

gaff,

I also had an experience with synthetic oil.......however, found that it didn't have to do with the oil........but rather the Energy Conserving rating on the oil. You need to check the 10w-30 you put in your quad, unless it was specifically made for atv's. Many automotive oils of grade 10w-40 and below (more specifically 10w-30 and below) have an Energy Conserving rating on the back in the circle. If the oil is marked with this, it has friction-reducing additives that will eventually cause wet clutch slippage. You can run any synthetic oil you want, as long as it doesn't have this "Energy Conserving" rating. For example, Mobil 1 15W-50 doesn't have the rating.........go to the Honda forum and do a search, and you will see that many people use that particular oil in wet clutch atv's with no problems. The 15w-50 should also cover most temperature ranges, and provide perfect protection.

 

mobil 1 15/50 year round. Can't beat it.
98 lakota, I have installed an oil cooler on my friends lakota and it works great. He had a knocking in the engine when it would get hot, especially in the summer. The oil cooler took care of the problem. I bought it from Mickey Dunlap at FST. came with some hose and clamps. It was nothing more than a small automotive style transmission cooler. If you search hard enough you can find one small enough but they are not common. May be easier to pay a little more and get one from FST. I made an aluminum braket and mounted it to the frame above the front suspension right behind the air flow vents in the hood. Mickey only sends zip ties to mount it with. I made the bracket fit to some existing bolts but can't remember which ones (its been over two years ago). Looked real trick and the bracket also gives soom protection from sticks and stuff. He's been riding hard ever since.

 

I look forward to finding out what oil other Mojave owners are running. Also, about the synthetic oil thing-synthetic is supposed to create less friction right?-So what is the purpose of synthetic w/o the friction modifiers?-Same as conventional right? Wrong?

 

modr,

The purpose of any oil is to reduce/eliminate friction between moving parts. What makes synthetic better is that it is more stable, and can reduce/eliminate friction at higher and lower temperature extremes.....much better than petroleum oil. Also, it remains stable for longer periods of time under the same conditions, allowing extending drain intervals in some circumstances.

The friction modifiers were introduced in an effort to reduce emissions in automobiles.......reducing friction further than oil alone.......and in the long run.....improving fuel economy, thus reducing emissions. This may not be 100% correct, but it is my current understanding of it all.

The downside to the friction modifiers (in any oil--petro or synthetic) is that they make the oil too "slippery" for proper wet clutch function.

 

You argue a good case, I'd like the chance to research this.

My previous problem with synthetics was with street bikes, and to be honest it was the general thought from racers to street strip guys that the synthetics made the clutch slip!

Now in 95 I remember slick fifty having a motorcycle spacific oil, But thier again the guys from the honda hawk super sport bikes tested it in daytona that year and came back pissed.
To tell you the truth they took thier eight grand motors and flushed them with dextron II to get the clutches to stop slipping

 

I have amsoil in my F-150, but didn't know they offered atv oil.

Let me throw this at you.
I don't remember were I read it but here it goes. It is suggested that air cooled bikes have the oil changed every five tank fills.
Now the lakota takes 1.2qts of oil. As you can see this is not enough capacity to argue this statement.
Would you say the amsoil oil will beat this and still not make are clutches slip?

I don't want to put you on the spot, but as you can see I posted this because of the vascly different opinions on atv motor oil!