I have been spending the last two days on the lakota, trying to come up with the rite jetting, disc combo.
Yesterday I Raised the c-clip on the needle to the second notch, wrong.
Then I lowered the main jet to a #134, not bad, sounds like a little more snappier.
Then I removed three of my 12 disc in the super trapp, it looks like the bike is realy smoothing out well.
Then I turned the fuel/air mixture screw in one half turn, making a full three turns out.
The bike is running real smooth, idle seems to be smooth and not going up and down like it was, mid range seems smooth and the transition from mid range to top end is quite smooth, even un noticeable.
I was doing plug checks (plug gap at .025 inch), It looks good just a light tan, with no black. After two hours running it started to look reddish in color but I believe this was a fuel additive I put in today, 104+
When I started practicing launching for a up and coming drag race I have, I found I couldn't launch due to the front was coming up to easaly, and when I got out of the gas and back on It, it took about five to ten feet to recover and be back in full power.
So this bothered me, a bog, hmmm!
So when I got up this morning I thought maybe the 12T would be better to drag with, so I put it on.I went out to a small circle track by the house, nothing much just a couple of jumps.
Well, I like it, wheelies alot easier, more power to the wheels on demand, the gearing felt better on this small course.
So now I'm wondering how much I like the probably three or four mph on the top end. I realy never use the top end, unless I'm riding between riding areas.
So I don't know, I like the 12T much better on this small course, I'll miss the top end in the open areas, I think I'm going to keep the 12T on for the rest of the week and see how much I miss that top end.
Oh ya, It launches much, much better with the 12T sprocket, I will deffinately keep this on for my drag race.

 

I am still running the 12 tooth. I just ordered the thirteen tooth this week. I havent got it yet. I like the extra bottom end that I get with the 12 tooth. Most of my riding is tight wooded trails. Rocketing out of the turns with the front wheels off of the ground is a blast. I will try the 13 tooth and see if I like it. For 7 bucks I had to try it. Was there enough adjustment in your chain for the 13 Tooth?

I have a question for you since you have a lot of carb experience. Does the air mixture screw only control the idle circuit? or thru the whole power band? I haven't bought the K@N power kit yet but I was tinkering with my carb to try and get some more performance. I put a washer under the head of the needle to get a little snappier throttle response. It worked great, but I was running real rich at Idle and low rpm's. I didn't know if I could lean it out with the air screw? I am running the stock 140 jet with my supertrapp with 8 discs. I had gone up to the 145 when I first put on the pipe, but was running rich. I am running about right with the 140. I trimmed the snorkel but that is all of the airbox mods I have done. I loved the snappier throttle response with the needle raised. Just running too rich. I don't know if the stock needle profile will work like this?

 

Yes you can lean out by adj the air/fuel mixture screw.
In the three stages the carb goes through it is important to know if your riding on top end were is you would be riding off the main, your idle circut and needle does not shut off it's fuel supply, the three work together.
The key is to get the three to work with one another in transition from one state to another.
To immitate a jet kit, keep what you have, now the kit requires you to drill the slides lift hole.
The kit supplies a drill bit but it is slightly larger than a 3/32 bit.
Use a 3/32 bit and drill out the slide lift hole, Thiers only two holes under the slide one for the needle and the other is the lift hole.
This will give the slide the ability to move quicker.
Another thing with the jet kit is to turn the air fuel mixture screw in all the way and back out 2/12 turns.
Now if you had done this you are real close to a jet kit, run it, if your still running fat you have to go down on your main. Before you go down though pull the air filter out and you should notice a huge difference.
If your bike back fires coming off the throttle turn the air/fuel mixture screw out another half turn.
As you have seen you must make certain changes to certain problems, so after you do this post what you have and I will help the best I can

 

Where on the carb is the air fuel mix screw. When I put my Dynojet kit in it didn't mention touching the screw. Should I have ?

 

underneeth, forward of the float bowl.
I've been able to lossen the clamps and twist it side ways, and get it fine. 2/12 turns.

 

Is it the large or the small tube? Sorry for all the questions..

 

It's the larger one.
The float boal kinda wraps around it.

 

Thanks for the help. I thought that I could lean it out with the mixture screw, but I didn't want to get too lean on the top end. I did a lot of hard riding today, and with the stock 140 jet the plug looks real good. I had taken the washer out from under the needle before I went riding today. I will put it back in and re-adjust the air mixture screw and see how it does. I am about 2 3/4 out right now, and it is running well with my setup. I regularly ride with a stock mojave and a stock warrior. They usually beat me fairly well in a straight line drag. But today with my carb tinkering I ran right with them.

Do you think the stock air filter is very restrictive? I am still running the stock one. Just being a flat piece of foam I wouldn't think it would flow too bad. But I am not sure.

 

I have my air/mixture screw out three turns, so yours is probably close if not rite.

You would prabably be able to use the washer under the needle if the slide lift hole was drilled out. This would let the slide move faster wich would let a quicker shot of air, wich would improve accelleration.
I would deffinately replace the air filter.

It is important to understand, is once you put a jet kit in, or try and adj. your carb to see how it runs, then go back and start at your idle. Adj your air/ fuel mixture screw so you have a good idle, then go to your mid-range and adj. your needle to get the best mid range out of it, then go to your top end or main jet.
It's easier to start at the bottom then work your way up.
Some times you will find going down on your main one size and lifting your needle up will make it run better. Then again some times lowering your needle and raising your main helps.
No matter how you do it, I personaly have to ride the bike a couple of days to realy see were I'm at. Most setting changes can't realy be noticed by jumping on and shooting off in a straight line.

 

Hey Guys, one thing I have noticed since I put in the jet kit is that I am constantly playing with the Idle **** to get it to idle corectly, what should I do, I read what you said Gaff about starting at the bottom. Please if you don't mind go through the whole procedure bottom to top for me I would really appreciate it.