I gotta say this is the best bike outta the 3 of my bikes I have Or at least I have the most fun on it in the woods.Does any 1 have the 3 year warranty on it?I do and Im starting to think maybe that was a 400 buck mistake.The other 2 questions are valve adjustments do ya do your own and are they easy to do?I want to lighten the bike and am allowed bolt ons.I'd like to add a big gun exhaust KnN air filter, kehein PE 38 carb and klr ignition to it.I'd also like to take the heavy nerfs off of it and just leave foot pegs but at the same time the nerfs kinda saved me from a get off last time out.1 more question what weak spots does this bike have if it has any.I would appreciate any input on it thank you.

 

I did not get the warranty beacause I planned on modifying my machine. Your warranty may require you to get your mo serviced by your dealer or it will be voided. I did adjust my valves-pretty easy. Get a Clymer manual-it has step by step instructions on how to do everything. I'd get nerf bars if you plan on taking off the factory ones-All tracks require them, if you plan on racing. Check into Supertrapp before you get the Big Gun.

 

Adjusting the valves is pretty easy once you get ALL the plasic off.I have done mine twice since I bought it 6 mths ago.The valves on the right side(if your sitting on it) are always tight,both intake and exhaust.The other two havn't changed.The stock tires are good for traction but they wear out really fast and are very thin and prone to flats.The stock chain/brake skid plate came off on my first time out.It's pretty cheesy.Took the local dealer 3 mths to get me an aluminum one.

Something is wrong with my gas tank,I run out of gas but it still has almost a gallon it it.I can tip the bike over and get gas to the carb but it will flow away from the petcock and I run out again.I have to keep the tank full.I have resorted to carrying gas with me.

Theres a loose baffle in my muffler,lemme know if you want to sell yours [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

fwiw....I was unable to find a 6-pack rack for mine.I got one for a blaster,had to elongate 2 holes and make some brackets for the tail light and it bolted right on.Took about 30 minutes to install.

I live 15 minutes from terry cable and had them make me a cable so I could ditch the thumb throttle(gawd I hate them things).

 

You can get a six pack rack for the mo from PRM. Or at least you could a while back, haven't checked lately.

142, do you have the gas problem with the valve set on reserve? This is a problem with a lot of mojaves.

sugarhead, Do not add a 38 mm carb to your mo without major mods such as big bore, cams with hi rev springs, hi compression, race exhaust, rev limit removal and such. Even with all these mods it will still run better with a 36 mm carb. I have a pe38 on a highly modded mojave engine (everything but the big bore including a port job) and it is only really working good in the high rpm range. It actually looses something on the bottom. The stock carb will work the best with the other mods you have listed. I would do like Mordr said and check out the IDS2.

You can lighten up your mo by removing all the mud flaps, the cross bar that supports the mud flaps , the overflow bottle, and the frt fender support can be removed if you race cut your fenders. A hood without the headlight will take a little weight off too. An aftermarket exhaust saves a few pounds. Remove the park brake stuff and install a block off. remove the whole sorry air box system and run a clamp on filter with a water resistant outerwear (as long as you don't ride in 3 foot deep water). Replace the handlebars with aluminum bars. There may be a few other little items that I am forgetting.

As for weak spots, the frame will bend easily on the mo at the lower rails where the rear of the lower a arms are connected. If you snag a tree or something with one of the frt tires the frame rail will bend in. I always weld a piece of tubing in between the frame rails at this location on all my mojaves. That way it will have to bend both rails instead of just one when you smack something. As far as weak spots mechanically there is really none. The star wheel and fork that rotates it will eventually wear to a point that makes it hard to shift or not shift, but it is an easy fix to replace the parts.

Overall the mojave is a great quad for the money and a blast to ride. If you cant have fun on one you just dont like quads.

Check out my mojave project at www.picturetrail.com/mojaveaddict
It is further along than the pics now. New pics posted soon.

 

Mojaveaddict,My bike will only use 1.1 gallons of gas with the valve "on".Then .4 gallons on reserve.leaving .7 gallons in the tank.I have siphoned it dry and made sure that it holds 2.2 gallons like the book says.It holds all 2.2.I posted a question about this several months ago on this board and got many good ideas,but I have determined that something is wrong with my tank.I even removed the fuel valve assembly and made sure that the tubes were the right length,the reserve being at the very bottom of the tank.

What do you know about this problem?

I tried dealing with Kawasaki directly and was "blown off" by there public relations dept.So I've been looking for a good used tank.According to Kawasaki theres 2 tanks.Ones made before 1996 and made after 1996.Theres one on e-bay but it's from a 1995 bike.

Do you know what the difference may be? thx,Chris

 

Chris142, I did not know of a difference in tanks but it must be right. The part# for an 89 is 51001-1244 and the # for a 2002 is 51001-1482. I looked it up at buykawasaki.com. I did not take the time to see witch year the change was made. I do not know much about this problem. I have heard of this problem and have looked at my tanks many times and it is obvious that all the gas can not get to the valve. The newest mo I have is a 94 so I can't tell about the new tanks. I am sure that we would have the problem if we rode any distance, but we ride tracks and play areas and trails that are usually no more than 30 miles, so running out has never been a problem. I have looked down in the right front corner and seen gas when I was refilling because of running out at the track before. I dont see any way to cure the problem short of a better designed tank. Maybe the new model tanks are better. Have you priced a brand new one? I bet it is way up there. If I see a late model used one I will let you know.

 

I don't know the differance in the tanks either. I do know it is common when making hard left hand turns(especially racing on a circle track) at about 3/4-1/2 tank and below for the Mojave to cut out due to the fuel going to the right side of the tank. I have to run mine on reserve when I race on a circle track and I know another guy with a 98 Mo that has the same thing happen. I remember Chris142 posting his problem a while back and it seems to be something else screwed up with the tank. I think you will end up finding out that where your tank is molded together in the center, that there is a plastic "web" that is keeping the gas from going over to the left side.

 

I wouldnt plan on getting an klr black box, unless you're going to get heavy duty valve springs, the klr box doesnt have a rev limiter and you could easily float then with that on there.

 

Instead of spending 250.00 plus dollars on a klr250 black box send your black box to four stroke tech and he'll remove your rev limiter for 85 dollars.