I just had my belt replaced last night by the dealer free of charge at 489 miles. However the reason for change was not a defective belt but a defective service call about 100 miles back. I too had a chirp and the technician removed the shim and never replaced it with a thiner shim but removed the stocker and inserted nothing in its place. Kawasaki did recall all the prairies all the way back from 1997 to replace the belt. They did nothing to the drive or driven components. The current Kaps system seem to be an evoloution in progress between the mule and 2000 models prairies. For people in high altitudes there is an adjustment and ramp kit that will keep your clutches and belts working better, it applies a little more spring tension to the drive clutch. For those who pull heavy loads this kit can also help. The kawasaki kaps system only lacks one thing in my opinion and that is a multi layer of kevlar. The V Twin engine here is applying a lot of torque more torque than the kaps system has had applied to it in it life of production. Don't jump real hard at Kawasaki yet my 97 had several recalls after out of warranty and they fixed it for nothing. Also the reps are always going to say no. No matter what brand you buy, ever tried to get something done to a yamaha that was questionable as to being a wear item or not? Everything these guys look at is a wear item - example Banshee was 4 days old and front cog eat splines on the transmission - Yamaha said it was the cogs fault and since it was a wear item and it had failed it caused the splines to wear and my negligence for not examnining the thing caused it's ultimate failure. Now this thing was 4 days old. This was a big ouch 560 soemthing dollars to get it back together and my dealer fought for me I stood and watched this occur on the phone. I have tiffs with Kawasaki too but they seem to be somewhat fairer in their judgements. The noise you guys hear the knocking at idle is likley the wear shoes in the converter I change these all the time no biggy usually about 6 bucks and a half hour and your back running. The new kaps system requires you to line up arows with lines on the converter and make note of the spring in what holes. And don't let the thing fly aapart it is under spring pressure just remember that. The only thing you have to remember when working with the kaps transmissions is the special tools that kawasaki makes to take them apart can usually be made. To take the clutches off the bolt is threaded left handed and at 69 ft lbs. To remove it you have to insert a bolt that will enter the crank without destroying the threads and give you enough length to thread into the clutch to pull it from the shaft. The driven pulley where the adjustment shim is will slide off once the bolt is removed and it is threaded normally if I remember correctly. You have to remove the spring from the rear of the driven pulley and retrieve the buttons from the center of the pulley to take it apart. Be careful here and don't loose the 4 little buttons as they are what keeps the driven pulley from just being a spinning disk. Hope this helps. Please make yourself familiar with this system it can be dangerous to take apart if not disassembled/reassembled correctly and it can cause a non shift problem also. I am not an expert here but have changed several belts and wear shoes. If you are unsure about taking this system apart I would take it to a person or dealer comfortable with it.The older prairies shimmed to the outside of the driven pulley while the new one use the center to shim be careful. Another thing here my new belt was gray on the bottom first Kaw Belt I have seen this way my old one they removed was all Black have they changed belts??

 

I bought my 650 back in Nov. I just checked my belt last night and found the belt to be riding low in the secondary pully. This is an easy fix by merely removing a shim as previously mentioned. The other problem is the belt hasn't been going all the way to the top of the primary. This however is none adjustable as the belt has either been made to short or to narrow which reduces top end speed. It would probably also cause the belt to slip which would explain why my belt looks so worn after only 200 miles. I am interested to know if anyone has a different factory belt number then mine? the # is 59011-1080.
Thanks.
R.

 

For FISHHEAD and anyone else who is frustrated by the 650 belt problems:

Kawasakis' address and phone number can be found in your owners manual. Too bad Kawasaki does not have an e-mail address or 1-800 number that their customers could use to talk to them about these kind of problems. But maybe, after they get our money, they don't want to talk to us!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

GeeBee

 

You can Email customer service just go to Kawasaki.com and enter in you VIN and in that section somewhere there is a place to Email customer service. I did and in less than 2 hours they were calling me and resolved my issue pretty prompt. Even though it says to call the number they responded. I used the guise of not putting recalls on their site when they are replacing parts it seems in some places and not in others. They responded to what I assume was possibly a direct confrontation. Who Knows

 

I just measured my belt width on my 650 with only 200 miles on it. According to the "Prairie info" site that Dustinminnesota posted the ware limit on a belt is 28.8mm. My belt is at 28mm so it should be replaced. I called my dealer and had him measure a new belt for me and it was only 28.5mm which is already below the ware limit. According to the Prairie specs given a new belt should be between 29.2mm and 30.4mm.Given this info I think Kaw. should come good for new properly sized belts. I would be interested to know if anyone has the specs on an aftermarket belt as I don't realy want to change the belt to have the same problems.
R.

 

Just an update on my wifes 650, talked to the service manager on Friday and this time the driven clutch is the newest problem. Seems a bearing froze up and was making a squeeling noise that you could hear and feel through the foot pegs. So after fifty hours of use 2 new belts and 3 belt adjustments a new choke cable, 2 pieces of broken plastic, melted k.e.p.s. system and a new clutch. Kinda makes you wonder whats next
Bearman

 

Been awhile since a comment on this subject, but here is mine. Got my Prairie for Christmas, now has 1235 miles. Haven't done a thing to it except for recommended maintaince, and the belt does squall upon engagement, and started to do so probably about the 800 mile mark. The machine is used for lots of slow utility work, but am not above thrashing it about just a little. Had to whip-up on a H.O. you know. Not rider enough to handle him on a road course, but sure can do the trick in a drag race. I do use low range a lot especally for the slow rock climbing, and other slow towing chores.

Going to take it back to the dealer before it goes off warrentee, and get things in order. The power oullet has no power, and never has, gotta get that fixed. Also tore the rear fender extension, need to get that.


Go forth and ride

02 Prairie
stock

98 450-s
stock 17200 miles
Titians

00 Kodiak
stock
Titians

 

ive had 1 probelm w/ my belt. a trip to virginia to ride some trails. i poppd it into hig a lil to quick and the switch got hit.took it apart and changed position. other than that ive dragged that belt thruthe mud and thru water as high as the filter and its held up.
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