I got most of my parts back today.Seems mojo parts are hard to find.The headgasket and the boot between the airfilter box and the other air box are on back order with no known delivery date!The piston is second over,seems the cylinder didn't clean up on the first try(at least thats the story).So I washed the cylinder with soap and water and put the rings on the piston.Then I put the oiled piston in the cylinder,put the base gasket on,slid the wrist pin into the piston ect.

Then I cleaned the old headgasket and put gasket shellac on the old gasket and put it back on!(I know,I know).I torqued everything to spec and put lots of assembly lube on the cam bearings and the lobes,lined up the dots on the cam gears and the "t" thats "in the hole",adjusted the valves too.

So far 5 hours,I've never had a mojave apart and am taking extra time.
Tomorrow I'll finish it as well as drain the old oil,change the filter .I am going to use 5w30 for the first 1/2 hour or so.My reasoning is I want the oil to pump up to the cam as fast as possible,then I'll change it and the filter.

How long will it take for the new rings to seat?

 

chris142,

cool, sounds like things are turning around quickly for you!!

If I could make a suggestion. Use straight 40W oil for the braek in. I know of no atv 40W so I use automotive. When you add the 40W to the engine, pull the valve cover and add it through there, this is the best way to get the oil to the top end rite away.

Pull the spark plug and kick the motor over for a few times, this will help spread the oil already at the top end and prime the oil pump so it is ready for start up.

Also when you start the machine, start it at a little faster idle, blipping the throttle a little here and there. Then ride the machine, don't lope it, ride it through the gears, with moderation. Do this about 3 times then park the machine, change to your regular oil, let machine cool completely, re-tourque heads.

Do the riding threw the gears things a few more times with cooling periods in between, this gives a real good braek in.

What ever you do remember to check the valves and re-tourque the head bolts, these will loosen alot of times. I try to use restraint, but usualy have to wait untill the next morning to do the valves and re-tourque


Sure happy to hier things are coming along quickly for you.
I usualy get the moose top end gasket kits from dennis kirk, the dealers tend to always have atleast one part on back order. Thier back orders are usualy very long too.

 

Whoohoo! It runs! I finished it this morning.I put the gas tank on just to run it.I let it run till the fan came on,then shut it down.Then I went out to breakfast.When I came back my friends were waiting on me.So I checked the radiator water,it was full so we put the plastic on.

I was going to let it run again and drain the oil,but I said heck with that! I'm goin riding!I was very easy on it for the first hour or so.Then we got in more technicle stuff.I did my best to not lug it or really rev it.It has much more power than it had before and I havn't really "gotten on it" yet.

We rode for about 6 hours.I kept an eye on the oil level and for oil in the drain tube.It had a small amount of oil in the tube at the 2 hour mark.I drained it and since then it has only put 1/8 inch of oil in the tube,far cry from the cup of oil I had last weekend.

When I got home I immediatly drained the oil and changed the oil filter.I inspected the filter for bad stuff.It had one little shiney piece of metal in it.I would consider that normal after open heart surgery.

So now I gotta pull it back apart and check the head bolts! grrrrr.

Gaff,Thanks for the advice.I didn't get online this morning so I kinda missed your advice.Why do you recomend sae 40?It was about 40 deg this morning.Isn't 40 wt kinda thick for such a cold temp?How long till the rings are seated?I would think after 6 hours they are seated,no? thx

 

Chris142
Instead of putting the whole airbox assembly back on, why don't you just clamp a filter directly on the carb?

 

chris142,

the 40W is a graet assembly and braek in oil. It is very thick and tends to stay were it goes. Like two gears in mesh together, the 40W will spread evenly and bond to the gears thicker and stay in place for some time, were a lighter oil will spread evenly as well but in a thinner layer, also lighter oil tends to drain down to the oil sump much quicker.

Heavier oil helps to lubricate and retain were it is at, but is only used during initial start up and up to the first 20 min of brak in. The heavier oil obsorbs the heat of moving machinery much more eficiently but after prolonged use I find it actualy makes engine temps a bit higher.

Not to mention, it's a little insurance plan for possibly some sticky parts, it makes them a little slipperier untill they seat them selves in thier new home!!!

It was just a suggestion and not every one does it, not to mention it sounds like you have it the first go around.

The best part of it all, is the differences in post from a week ago to now. Just happy it all worked out, and you still have some vacation left.

 

Mordr,I have thought about putting a filter on the carb.Would it help performance?I don't care for K&n's as I ride in very dusty conditions.Can I get a foam filter that wont colapse?Maybe one with a spring in it?

 

Uni 2 stage foam filter
part # 30703 from Dennis Kirk $15.99
It has a plastic "frame" inside to keep its shape.
With that and an Outerwares-you should have no problems unless you ride in deep water-if so, I would keep the stock setup.
It does make some difference as long as you jet richer after the change.