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Lakota update!!!

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  #11  
Old 05-11-2002 | 09:57 AM
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About those exstended warranties. They aren't worth the time. They are realy insurance companies wich insure the reliabilability of the quad and the history of manufacturer defects.
Much like a insurance on your loans, if you go out and talk to your insurance agency you can get it for less than half threw them.
Getting insurance companies to stand behind, or have full disclosure of a policy is one of the hardest things to do.
I have spent countless thousands on exstended warranties on many different things, never had one worth the cost yet.

Not to mention you were fully out of your warranty specs. A good mechanic new what was done to your quad and sure new the problems you had.

It does take about 2 hours to take the top end down. Grant it I can do mine within a hour but I've had mine down more than a half dozen times.

To remove the top end you need to remove all plastic, remove top motor mount (unless you remove that top motor mount several times it is very hard), then pull the carb,(completely), then the timing chain adjuster, then the cam sprocket, then the 4 bolts to the head, the 3 side bolts.
Keep in mind the lakota head is not designed to come off with the engine in the frame. With the valve covers off and some fancy relocating of the wiring harnesses you can just barely take it out the front, were I forgot to mention the exhaust came off at. Then head disassembly, remove cam, rockers and rocker shafts, then the valves.

Also keep in mind I have taken every bolt out of my quad and put STL8 non conductive grease on them. Any one who changed thier first oil filter on a lakota remembers how tight and hard the bolts are on the lakota.

I agree with stebob, buy a manual and do this your self. The valvas are like 20 for the exhaust and 30 for the intake. Valve lapping compound is 5 and the suction cup lapping tool is less than 10. The gaskets all could have been re-used or you can buy a total top end gasket set from moose for 25.

Use this as a very valluble lesson bigbad, try to keep up on your maintenance and get a manual. This will help you in many things in life.
 
  #12  
Old 05-11-2002 | 10:28 AM
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I kept the oil changed about once a month and changed the filter every other time. Does it sound like the valves to you guys. When i start it up it smokes constantly and doesn't stop. But i was noticing when i had it in 5th just about pegged out the smoking was not near as bad. And it smells like oil buring.
The weekend before i took it to the shop we went on a big ride with alot of people i was put in the back of the crowd. Because they said the smoke was killing them.
 
  #13  
Old 05-13-2002 | 11:41 PM
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Does it sound like the valves to you guys. Will it cause it to smoke real bd if there out of adjustment.
 
  #14  
Old 05-14-2002 | 09:53 AM
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It does sound like the valves, but the smoke is probably from running hot the valve seals get brittle and leak.

If you never adjust them they probably cupped the valves as well.

The machanic will let you know. I have a spare set of valves, the cost isn't bad. It was like $18 for the exhaust and $28 for the intake, can't remember exactly.

When are you getting her back bigbad?
 
  #15  
Old 05-14-2002 | 07:10 PM
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They never tore it down they was wanting a 100 to just tear it down. My dad is going to fix it. I'm going to get it saturday.
Anyone have lakota or mojave plastic for sale.
 
  #16  
Old 05-14-2002 | 10:54 PM
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your dad won't have any problem figuring it out. there is no tricks to getting it apart other than patients. The head and jug can be removed with the engine still in the frame.

The valves will need to come out and I'm sure they will be cupped, so just order a set when you pick it up. You probably need valve seals as well, so get them on order also.

The head and base gasket can be re-used, and most perfer to do so to try and gain compression.

Tell your dad just remove the threaded adjusters from the rockers and get a deap well socket and cut it away. With the deap well cut away socket and a 8" C-clamp the valves spring retainers can safely be removed.

Go to napa and purchase some valve grinding compound and a valve lapping suction cup tool. Both will cost about $15 or less.

If you have any questions when your tearing it down private message me and we will exchange phone numbers and I'll answer any questions that I can. I only had them apart about......oooooooh a dozen times last month[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
  #17  
Old 05-14-2002 | 11:35 PM
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Thanks gaff for the advice.
 
  #18  
Old 05-23-2002 | 05:23 PM
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So what's the scoop BigBad?
 
  #19  
Old 05-23-2002 | 06:20 PM
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There replacing a broken motor mount now and i'm going to call them and tell them it needs axle berrings. The motor still no luck with them. They aren't going to fix it.
 
  #20  
Old 05-23-2002 | 06:57 PM
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Why? Did you just tell them not to? You really should look into buying a Clymer's for it. You'll find that most of that is really not that hard to do.
 


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