Just a little info and personal experience for anyone interested. When I had my 650 in for the ten hour checkup (actually about 15 hours.)I had the dealer install my Titan 589 m/t's. Awesome tire by the way. They removed one of the 1.4mm shims from the secondary as was thier standard practice at the checkup. After a few more rides I noticed it wasn't as snappy starting out as it used to be. I checked the belt deflection and found it to be pretty loose. 1.5" plus. So not having any smaller shims I removed the second 1.4mm shim and ran it with no shims. This proved to bring back a nice snappy engagement but after everthing was good and warmed up the belt would give a little squak when idleing. The squaking was from the inside of the belt rubbing on the center shaft of the pimary, not the sides. Hence a little to tight. I ordered a 1.0mm and a .6mm from the dealer and installed the .6 by itself to start with. Everything has been great so far, no sqauking and a nice grab at engagement. Deflection measures right at 1". Not too tight, not to loose, just the way I like em....er..ah..it I mean. LOL. My belt measures right around 28.4mm measured right across the top cogs by the way. I have learned a couple of tricks for removing the belt without removing the primary and getting the slide buttons back in on the secondary without throwing tools around the garage. If any one is interested let me know. Sorry for the length but the belt deflection is, in my opinion, critical on any cvt. My cylinder index is currently holding at 20 if anyone knows what that means. Later.

 

As a matter of fact, I wanna know how you got the belt off w/o special tools, buttons and all. I bet my belt is loose. I have heard from other peope, but now I'm ready to do it.

What is cylinder index at 20?

 

Now I'm p*****d. I had a cylinder index of 23 until last week when I sold the extra pickup.
Now at 15.
I would love to know how to get the belt off without special tools. To do it without chunking tools sounds even better. Patience is not one of my strong suits.

 

OK, I get it. I have a cylinder index of 12, but that's about to go up soon.

My brother says he is up to 30 or more by now.

 

1. Getting the belt off. The way I did it is a little primitive but a correct tool would not be that hard to make. I'll come back to that after I explain the basics. Using the biggest screwdriver I could find, I placed the tip inbetween the secondary sheeves and pointing at the center of the secondary as deep as it will go. (if the secondary were a clock the screwdriver would be pointing somewhere around 2 o'clock, you have to shove it in where the belt isn't, or in the direction of the primary). Now grab the top of the belt with your left hand and pull upwards as you pry/pull outwards on the screwdriver. The screwdriver will spread the secondary and as it spreads the belt will ride up in the gap from the bottom. When you get it spread far enough you will have enough slack in the belt to pull the top of it over the secondary and walla it's off. Installation is the reverse of this. It would be great if one could push the back half of the secondary back with your fingers but the spring is too damn strong.(unlike a snowmobile). The only drawback to this method is the screwdriver leaves nicks in the secondary where you pry. But after inspecting the secondary I doubt if the belt ever rides this low, even at full shift out. I used some emery cloth to smooth out the nicks anyway. Just make sure your prying tool is in as far as it will go. Maybe even grind off the sharp edges to minimize any dings. Okay there's an idea for a new tool.
2. When you get the belt and secondary nut off carefully slide the secondary off the splined shaft. Take note as soon as the secondary comes off the shaft the buttons could fall out and onto the garage floor if there is not enough grease to keep them in place. Not very likely, but possible.
My other trick for reinstalling the buttons is to.... place the secondary on edge on workbench. Shine a flashlight in the hole to line up the button holes with the four slots in the inner shaft. Get the button close to the hole and then stick one finger in from the back and one finger in the front and manuver the button around untill you get it to drop in. (this is better than sex... well not really LOL.) Ounce you get the first button in the rest go easier. Hope this helps. Use a little grease on the buttons to help keep them in place ounce they are in.
I'll leave it at that for now. The secondary spring is a strong sob so take care when compressing it, I use my secondary tool made for snowmobiles to do this part.

http://www.am1500.com/cylinderindex/ci_form1.cfm

http://www.am1500.com/garagelogic/

 

Is it possible to see the shims with out dismantling the clutch?

The reason Im asking is that my bike makes the squalking noise on take off! This never occured until I brought in my bike for a service call (nothing to do with the belt) and they checked the deflection and told me it was out of spec! I told the guy I was not interested in messing with it until it became a problem! Well as soon as I got it home and took it for a ride it started squalking. Maybe the service fella removed all the shims thinking he was doing me some good, Maybe! Thanks for the info....

 

Cylinder index of 48!! not that anyone cares!!

 

CI of 35

 

cylinder index, what does that mean?

 

Cylinder Index LOL...pretty funny stuff.

My cylinder index is 79 (cars/recreational/lawn care and thats excluding all the remote control heli-copter engines =) did i mention im only 24 yrs old.... =)

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(edited-forgot to add the edger hehe)