What gives with the DIRT WHEELS monster mud shootout?
#11
05-29-2002 | 11:13 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
WOW, sure see my name up here alot.
Well I have to once again inform you all I have not had the chance to play with this monster twin yet, but boy I'm pretty pumped up on getting my hands on one.
I have tried moving the needle clip down (raising the needle) and fattening up the main just like you all are talking about on many machines. I have never been successfull at this yet. I have used the dyno for many hours and days doing this same test as you all have.
Where the dyno is a good measuring stick on wich way you are going, good or bad, it realy doesn't give real world under load answers.
The dynojet kits for the quads are very rich all the way across the board. I have found on average that nearly all quads take around four sizes smaller main jets than the suggested set up wich you find in the instructions.
I did take a couple Kawi's out to north louisiana last december. What we found using GPS's was by lowering the C-clip by one notch or going back and using the stock needle with the rest of the dynojet kit was, the power from low to mid was graet, but the transition from mid to top was not good. The GPS also showed us that the accelleration from bottom to the middle of the RPM range was very good but the accelleration from the mid to top end slowed graetly. where it took say 150 feet to get to 40 mph it took about 4 to 5 times that distance to get to the top speed of the machine, wich showed to be a couple MPH slower.
I then started jetting the quads with the C-clip in the suggested position and jetted down untill I got a white leen plug. This was 5 sizes below what the suggested main was sappose to be (sense dynojet only makes every other size this was actually 10 sizes below) What I mean here is the suggestion was a 138 and I was now at a 128.
Well any way, I bumped up to the 130 size to get out of being lean and this thing performed much better. Nothing showed it better than the GPS. A very even hard pull rite off idle to full throttle. I got to top end in about half or a little more the distance with 2 mph faster than the stockset up, wich was 4 MPH faster over the modified needle set up.
I'm sorry I went into this story but trying to state facts and figures on the net can be taken wrong or I just get mest up trying to talk threw a key board.
In basic terms is, now no offense to no one realy, is the main is still to fat an by trying to off set a fat main you lower the needle c-clip one spot wich actualy leans a pourchon (sp) of your power range out making you believe this is a better set up. In fact if you leave the needle alone and keep dropping the main untill you see a white lean plug and then bump it up one size you will see performance will be much better. You will be very surprised after you start seeing that brownish color on your plug how far down you will have to go before you see a white plug.
Now judging performance by a straight line drag timed is a good way. My prefference is in the woods and trails. This is where you realy see the differences.
Now NYROC has had his modded this way for a while so if he had tried what I have suggested he would be the one who would be able to give us a realy good review.
Well I have to once again inform you all I have not had the chance to play with this monster twin yet, but boy I'm pretty pumped up on getting my hands on one.
I have tried moving the needle clip down (raising the needle) and fattening up the main just like you all are talking about on many machines. I have never been successfull at this yet. I have used the dyno for many hours and days doing this same test as you all have.
Where the dyno is a good measuring stick on wich way you are going, good or bad, it realy doesn't give real world under load answers.
The dynojet kits for the quads are very rich all the way across the board. I have found on average that nearly all quads take around four sizes smaller main jets than the suggested set up wich you find in the instructions.
I did take a couple Kawi's out to north louisiana last december. What we found using GPS's was by lowering the C-clip by one notch or going back and using the stock needle with the rest of the dynojet kit was, the power from low to mid was graet, but the transition from mid to top was not good. The GPS also showed us that the accelleration from bottom to the middle of the RPM range was very good but the accelleration from the mid to top end slowed graetly. where it took say 150 feet to get to 40 mph it took about 4 to 5 times that distance to get to the top speed of the machine, wich showed to be a couple MPH slower.
I then started jetting the quads with the C-clip in the suggested position and jetted down untill I got a white leen plug. This was 5 sizes below what the suggested main was sappose to be (sense dynojet only makes every other size this was actually 10 sizes below) What I mean here is the suggestion was a 138 and I was now at a 128.
Well any way, I bumped up to the 130 size to get out of being lean and this thing performed much better. Nothing showed it better than the GPS. A very even hard pull rite off idle to full throttle. I got to top end in about half or a little more the distance with 2 mph faster than the stockset up, wich was 4 MPH faster over the modified needle set up.
I'm sorry I went into this story but trying to state facts and figures on the net can be taken wrong or I just get mest up trying to talk threw a key board.
In basic terms is, now no offense to no one realy, is the main is still to fat an by trying to off set a fat main you lower the needle c-clip one spot wich actualy leans a pourchon (sp) of your power range out making you believe this is a better set up. In fact if you leave the needle alone and keep dropping the main untill you see a white lean plug and then bump it up one size you will see performance will be much better. You will be very surprised after you start seeing that brownish color on your plug how far down you will have to go before you see a white plug.
Now judging performance by a straight line drag timed is a good way. My prefference is in the woods and trails. This is where you realy see the differences.
Now NYROC has had his modded this way for a while so if he had tried what I have suggested he would be the one who would be able to give us a realy good review.
#12
05-29-2002 | 11:20 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
#14
05-30-2002 | 11:31 AM
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
nyroc,
I just like to share with you all what I have found, nothing more.
I would realy like to get my hands on a prairie 650 unfortunately it probably won't happen untill late october or so.
Like so many other racing families around the country we over here have found our selves way over are head again. So any thing I can share I'll post it, just don't take it to hart, I'm just a quad junky like yall[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I just like to share with you all what I have found, nothing more.
I would realy like to get my hands on a prairie 650 unfortunately it probably won't happen untill late october or so.
Like so many other racing families around the country we over here have found our selves way over are head again. So any thing I can share I'll post it, just don't take it to hart, I'm just a quad junky like yall[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
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