4WD not engaging, found the fix!!!
#21
UPDATE:
Well, it is not the actautor. I did all of the actuator tests (for resistance) in the book, all good, then I took the actuator off and put power to it, clean and simple movement, no problem there. This is where it gets a little sketchy because the electical part of all of this is beyond me right now. I tried doing the controller power supply tests, but I don't get the voltage that they say I should. Example: I put it on 9 & 10 to check the power supply, turn the ignition on, it says it should be "about battery voltage" (12v), but I get a reading of -4.6v. It says if the reading is not correct, check the 30A fuse (good), ignition switch (how? seems fine, it works to turn the machine on) or the wiring harness (where to start??).
Also tried checking the 2WD/4WD Switch, didn't get the right voltage for either 2WD or 4WD, this is where I basically got frustrated and pissed and put it all back together and went for a FAST ride!!!
Not really sure what to do now. Did not really want to or have the money to take it to the dealer, but it is looking like I might need to have it diagnosed by someone who understands all of the tests and what they mean when they are not what the book says, GRRRRR...
Any more help is greatly appreciated...riding in 2WD for a while I guess.
Well, it is not the actautor. I did all of the actuator tests (for resistance) in the book, all good, then I took the actuator off and put power to it, clean and simple movement, no problem there. This is where it gets a little sketchy because the electical part of all of this is beyond me right now. I tried doing the controller power supply tests, but I don't get the voltage that they say I should. Example: I put it on 9 & 10 to check the power supply, turn the ignition on, it says it should be "about battery voltage" (12v), but I get a reading of -4.6v. It says if the reading is not correct, check the 30A fuse (good), ignition switch (how? seems fine, it works to turn the machine on) or the wiring harness (where to start??).
Also tried checking the 2WD/4WD Switch, didn't get the right voltage for either 2WD or 4WD, this is where I basically got frustrated and pissed and put it all back together and went for a FAST ride!!!
Not really sure what to do now. Did not really want to or have the money to take it to the dealer, but it is looking like I might need to have it diagnosed by someone who understands all of the tests and what they mean when they are not what the book says, GRRRRR...
Any more help is greatly appreciated...riding in 2WD for a while I guess.
#24
Engine braking works fine, where is the spring for the driveshaft that you speak of? I have not checked that and don't really know, can you give me some insight here?
#25
Scoot, you could rule out any mechanical prob (springs, couplers etc in the driveline or front diff) by actuating the actuactor just like you did when you had it out. Just check to see if the 4x4 locks in when you do move it one way.
When you tested the 9 and 10 contacs, and got -4.6, you had the voltmeter reversed, but that doesn't really matter since all you would get with the voltmeter wires going the other way is +4.6v. You aren't getting good power to the controller. You have to find that problem first before proceeding. I think the ignition switch has multiple poles that are energized when you turn the key on. It is possible that the engine can start, and other things not work. I have to go to work now or I would look into this more for you. My job really stinks.
The 4x4 switch was set to 2x4 and you should have gotten 0volts, The 4x4 switch set at 4x4 you should get approx 5v, That doesn't matter, you have to fix the controller supply voltage first before you can test other stuff.
When you tested the 9 and 10 contacs, and got -4.6, you had the voltmeter reversed, but that doesn't really matter since all you would get with the voltmeter wires going the other way is +4.6v. You aren't getting good power to the controller. You have to find that problem first before proceeding. I think the ignition switch has multiple poles that are energized when you turn the key on. It is possible that the engine can start, and other things not work. I have to go to work now or I would look into this more for you. My job really stinks.
The 4x4 switch was set to 2x4 and you should have gotten 0volts, The 4x4 switch set at 4x4 you should get approx 5v, That doesn't matter, you have to fix the controller supply voltage first before you can test other stuff.
#26
UHHHH---- Have you checked the battery terminal ends for tightness. How about all the ground points, clean and tight? Fuses? Dirty connector blocks?
The POS(+) terminal on mine worked a little loose......the bike did REAL wierd things!!!!!!!!
The POS(+) terminal on mine worked a little loose......the bike did REAL wierd things!!!!!!!!
#28
Dang, replied to this last night, now it is gone!
Very, very frustrated with this. I have check everything I can, I have good battery (12.52v) and connections (including ground), I took the ignition switch out, unplugged it, the connection is very clean and bright, no corrosion or dirt. I rarely see mud or water around here, so that is what I expected. The ignition switch is a sealed unit, no way to get inside it. Anyone know how to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad? It is a $75 part from the dealer, and he has never sold one, not for the shop or to a customer, so he does not think that is the problem, but I cannot find anything else. I am to the point of testing the ignition switch and if that is good, it is going to the dealer. He will charge $60/ hour and put his best electrical guy on it to track it down.
Any other bright ideas?
Very, very frustrated with this. I have check everything I can, I have good battery (12.52v) and connections (including ground), I took the ignition switch out, unplugged it, the connection is very clean and bright, no corrosion or dirt. I rarely see mud or water around here, so that is what I expected. The ignition switch is a sealed unit, no way to get inside it. Anyone know how to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad? It is a $75 part from the dealer, and he has never sold one, not for the shop or to a customer, so he does not think that is the problem, but I cannot find anything else. I am to the point of testing the ignition switch and if that is good, it is going to the dealer. He will charge $60/ hour and put his best electrical guy on it to track it down.
Any other bright ideas?
#29
I busted the speed sensor on mine. It makes a 90 degree turn towards the front of the machine after coming out of the crankcase. Unfortunately the sensor is a prime candidate for getting damaged by anything that sticks up thru/past the skid plates. In my case a stick bent the sensor back from it's 90 degree angle to almost perpendicular to the bike. I bent it back forward & it works intermitently. You'll find it on the ignition diagram on Kawi's website. It's a long shot but you might take a look at the sensor & surrounding wires.


