Hey guys, just wondering if any of you have done the valve adjustment yet. I have over 1200kms on my machine and I'm not sure if I should have them done yet. Are there any tell tale signs that they have to be done? Any help will be greatly appreciated.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

Are you talking 650? The older Kawasaki's, I hear, needed their valves adjusted early (10 hours?).

The 650 does not need it so soon.

Most people's 650s probably don't have their valves adjusted for a long time. Mine were all right on except for 2 valves were a shade tight at 1000 miles. Could have gone more miles without messing.

However, 1 or 2 guys I can think of had their 650 start to idle like crap with fairly low miles and they couldn't really get the engine to idle well tuning the carbs. Their valves were out of adjustment. Most of us that did our valves, I think, believe we could have waited longer. But, better safe than sorry.

I suggest checking at 1000 miles (~1500km) for the maintenance conscious. I didn't pull this out of thin air. A dealer who I think knows what they are doing said this. It appears to be pretty good advice (unless it runs funny).

Gosh, I dunno, you can't tell until after you check them. Very few 650's need it as soon as the manual says, others not until they hit 2000 miles.

You listen to your machine idle then decide how much you want to gamble.

 

wapper,
been there, done that..
here is a thread that may help..Starting woes & quality time
as far as what the manual says needs to be removed..I think not..

ONLY the center section of the plastic (airfilter area & below) the inner wheelwells closest to the floorboards removed, and the flap in front of the steering stem down low needs to be moved out of the way)

some one also told me that the easiest way to check the adjustment was with a dial indicator..I believe it, but did'nt have one..

the above tips will save you a bunch of time, as that will keep you from removing about 7 lbs of screws..

hope it helps..

Master roc...

bear in mind that mine is setup for utility & work..when I ride it, I'm on it pretty good, 30 mph in 1st, up to 50 or so in high.. but when I set out stuff, it is idling..so I have a LOT more hours than miles..
last check was 103 hrs, 305 miles...I knew that I wanted a water cooled quad for that purpose..

 

Surveyor, some people have found that opening up the plastic shields a little inside the fenders gives them greatly improved airflow and reduces fan time. I think a hole saw was used. They say what they did had no detrimental effect on keeping debis out.

Another guy wrapped his pipe just a foot or so in the front to reduce heating of the air behind the rad. I think hta also reduces thermal radiation to the radiator.

Anyway, I guess I felt that info might be interesting to a guy that idles a lot. I am interested in any cooling ideas, since I sometimes clog my radiator.

 

master roc,
that sounds like a good plan, probally 6-8 about 1" holes in the front section of the fender wells (above the winch mount area) would help with a pretty good cross flow..and about 4-5 in the rear section should help with the heat from the pipe..
I had'nt really thought about it, but it's a good idea..I'll give it a shot..it has'nt caused me any problems so far, but all the cooling you can get, the better it is..all the purpose of the shrouds is to deflect air at warp speed into the radiator anyway..
thanks for the tip..
if you have some pics of what works for other folks, let me know.. I'm also considering putting some 12 volt mini strobes in the headlights..for added visibility, I have a 12 volt 3" yellow strobe that mounts on the back on a piece of pipe that sticks up 30" or so..the clear strobes you can see more than the yellows though..
sorry to get a bit off topic, but the link to the other thread pretty much covered it..

 

Mine were done at 100 hrs and they were spot on.

 

Surveyor, ,interesting lighting setup.

A guy named Steelhead found a replacement headlight bulb that has a higher wattage output, is much cheaper, and fits the same as stock 650 headlight bulb. The stock is a 45/45w bulb, However this one says 65/55w. The Bulb is from NAPA and is a Wagner 6260A.

It is coated to reduce heat near the bulb and prevent palstic lenses from melting. So, you get more light but no more chance of a lens melt down.

 

Hello,

I had the valves adjusted on my 02 400 at 10 hours, they were just a slight bit chattery when letting off the gas, this went away on the first adjust. Should I have to do this again? And when?

BTW- Loving my 400 Prarie, towed around my bro in laws 400 Forman for almost 30 minutes last weekend, POS never runs right. he thought he would stop me by putting his brakes on, was funny until I did the obvious and sprayed him with trail goo!!!

 

My 650 Prairie valves were adjusted at 100 HRS. They were very tight.

My 400 Prairie Valves have never been adjusted.

Both bought new in Aug. of 2001