Hello I had a question and was hoping somebody out there had some input. I currently own a Prairie 650 with about 1000 miles on it and its about a year old. I'm getting ready to go on another extended ride, hopefully down to the Hatfield Mccoy system. All I've ever done to it is clean the air filter and change the oil and oil filter. I called my local dealer and they said I needed to have the engine braking system checked and the valves adjusted and the drive belt deflection checked. I asked them on a price on the valves adjusted and checking the belt and they said around $350.00. I thought that was a little high, as far as the belt go's I could probably figure that out myself, but I don't want to get involved in the valves. I would be interested in what anyone has to say about this, the braking system doesn't really concern me that much, I can tell its working fine, the drive belt sorta gets me concerned, and I sure don't want to lose a motor cause of the valves not being adjusted right. I normally don't work on them that much, I'd rather work the overtime and pay someone else to do it.....lol. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks DennisC


One last question, does anybody else have any trouble getting their 650 started? I keep mine in the garage where it never drops below 40 degrees. I always shut the fuel off. But when its cold out and its set for about a week it takes forever to start. Yesterday it took so long I had to put the battery charger on it. The only way I can get it to start is hold the throttle about 1\4th of the way on and move the choke on and off continually. Once it starts up and runs for a few seconds its fine. It will start again no problem. When it starts it doesn't smoke or backfire or anything. Thanks DennisC

 

1. $350 is a ripoff
2. Buy the manual from the kawi web site and check the deflection and choke cable adjustment yourself. It's super easy. Checking the belt deflection is a 5 minute job.
3. According to others who have checked their valves at your mileage the 650 probably doesn't need it.
4. go to nyroc's web site and he has procedures for most of these things there. Do a search in the archives under "nyroc" and you'll find his web site address.
5. as far as cold start check and adjust your pilot jets. They are on the right side of the carb as you sit on the quad. As you are kneeling next to the quad on the right site, use a flashlight to locate the pilot screw on each carb. It's easy since it's really the only screw there that is not tight. One at a time turn them all the way in while keeping track of how far you are turning. DON"T tighten the screw once it hits the top. Come back out 3 turns for this cold weather. Stock is ~2 1/4 turns out for warm weather. This should help the cold starting. Do a search under "pilot" in the kawi forum for more details.
6. Ask more questions if you need clarification as I didn't have much time to type this out.

 

Dennis,

I had my valves adjusted at breakin service. Dealer's mechanic told me that they were out of adjustment (but, what do I know?!). Anyhow, to have belt deflection checked, valves adjusted, air filter cleaned and oiled, and all cables lubed, ran me right around $120.00. I thought that was high, but don't feel so bad after hearing what you were quoted!

 

The belt is easier to do than brakes on a car. Takes less time too. Read up. It is easy. I think I can almost adjust belts blindfolded.

The valves sortof easy technically, but physically they can be pretty sucky. U need to have a bunch of plastic removed. The feeler gage needs to be narrow or is is really hard to get the job done.

 

Roc,
I think who ever put the procedure for removing the front plastic, rack, bumper, etc was a sadistic soul, really the center section needs to come off, and the inner panels inside the wheel wells, and you can move the other little piece out of the way..just to let you know, I followed all the removal guidelines of the plastic, and about 5 lbs of screws, only to put the feeler guage under the top retainer of the valve on the front, so I had it loose...I put all the plastic back on, and fired it up..a little to much tapping going on..so I just removed the inner wheelwell sections of the plastic and the center section, and adjusted it back right, as far as all the other stuff that has to come off, you can take the inspection plug out, and turn the crank over by the pull start untill it lines up, the bit about pulling the recoil starter off can be avoided..

it is not that bad..but plan on bending the feeler guages 90 degrees, or using a dial indicator to check them..
kind of a pain with the boss in the way..set them loose, make sure the feeler is in the right place, and tighten them back down..no problem..

 

Surveyor, I know what you did. I did it too. I didn't think it was easy, physically. I was reaching more than I like to. My feeler was a little cranky about fitting into the gap, and I had to get both hands near the adjuster. Too much table muscle involved I guess.

I didn't like it.

I would do 4 belt adjustments before I would want to do another valve adjustment.