I jetted useing 142f and 145b stock jets and used 2 washers out of a dyno jet kit under each needle. When pulling the needles out I noticed my front vacuum slide looked like to was burned a little on the white and the rubber looked a little warped but it still set in place fine. I called the dealer and the vacuum slide is 95 dollars ahhh. well i put it all together and my vacuum slides wont open up so I hauled it apart and noticed the little tit were sync card is ripped at the bottom and the dealer can't get it till next week. I plan on glueing it until the new one is here just ot see if it will work right. Will this make it so the slides wont move they don't even start to. I can't see any other problem all lines are hooked up right I looked at our other machine to make sure. Also if I move the slides manually the back one is the only one that makes a defference when I move the front one the one that has the burn mark one it it does do anything. HELP if you can

 

Having a little trouble understanding the problem or the terminology you're using. You are aware that the slides will not open unless the engine is running. If you have one damaged diaphragm it shouldn't stop the other slide from moving.
What do you mean by only one makes a difference?

 

Couple of things to remember. Ensure the spring holder (white plastic part the needle fits inside of and spring sits atop of is aligned so as not to block the small vacuum hole in the slide. If block, no vacuum to operate the rubber to pull the slide(s) open.

As far as the rip,,there has to be a airtight seal created inorder for the engine vacuum to pull the slide(s) open.

Making a difference moving slides:
At an idle, moving the slides ,manually does not make any diffference on mind. (Keeping in mind higher engine rpm required inorder to create enough intake vacuum to "siphon" fuel past the now open needle(s).

(used 2 washers out of a dyno jet kit under each needle)
The washers are to be placed "on top" of the needles. (Between the c-clip and the needle holder)

Review you DynoJet instructions closely..

Lots of luck !!

 

Ya the engine is running when I do this What I mean by manually moving the slides is I will push the throttle and it won't rev up so I reach in and move the slides manually and when I move the front one there is no difference in the rev but when the back one is moved it will rev. I think the diaprham is ok but my rear boot that hooks the back carb to the head has a little rip in it (I have one on order) and I didn't know if this small rip would cause both carb slides not to move. I am going to try to patch it till I get the new one just to see if it is my problem.

 

If you open the throttle and push the slide open, and the engine speed doesn't change, either the front cylinder isn't running at all or the front carb is seriously screwed up.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Nova,

Do you have any experience with the DJ Kit?

Installed K&N filter with kit and followed instructions to the letter using recommended jetting for bike with pipe and below 3000 ft.
It was horrible, so rich it stumbled bad at mid range, top speed was around 40 mph and plugs were black as soot. Got frustrated and since I'm good friend's with the local dealer I spent 1/2 day with them getting it jetted properly. Now the bike works like a charm, starts perfect, pulls hard and the plugs are a nice tan color. The only hitch is, now the jetting is 3 sizes smaller than recommended. The bike's been jetted this way for about 6 months, I don't baby it and the temperature up here lately hasn't exactlly been great for tanning but I haven't had the slightest problem or sign of it being lean.

Just wondering if you have seen this kind of variation between bikes and looking for some input from guys in my area.

Thanks

 

Quote
(used 2 washers out of a dyno jet kit under each needle)
The washers are to be placed "on top" of the needles. (Between the c-clip and the needle holder


I used the stock needles and just used the washers from a dyno jet kit. To explain where I put the washer if you took the needle out and stood it so the point was up I put the washers down over the point

 

I'll go one step further: unless you get that front cylinder to work again you're going to be spending alot of time messing with needles, jets, etc., and getting nothing for it. I stand by my quote, and if I had to make my best guess, I'd say that the front carb float may have gotten jammed or bent when the float bowl was put back on. I don't think your getting any fuel through that carb.


Scotia650 - two things: some people reported getting a rubber flap over the end of the intake snorkle by accident, the second thing could be way too much oil on the K&N filter. That's a common one.

 

Nova 650-

I am going to go work on it now I am going to fix to carb holder boot till my new one comes in and also am going to check the float to see if its stuck I'll keep you post on progress

 

Nova,

Just checked the bike for your two suggestions.

Negative on the flap, everything is open and clear.

I use K&N filter oil sprayed light over the surface of the filter. I checked and the filter is a light red tint, definately not soaked, I can still see through it. I should note that I still use the stock snorkle and have made no changes (holes) to the cover. It seems that the cover restricts about 1/3 of the surface of the K&N because the filter sits higher in the case than the stock one did.

Thoughts?