A month or so back I asked your opinions on the possibility of removing the tool box and putting a gas tank in it's place.

Well I did it and it works great[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

I fabricated a tank from 316 SS it holds a little over 2 gallons. It gravity feeds the factory tank and is vented through the factory system. Drilling a hole in the factory tank for the fitting was the scary part the rest was pretty easy.

Should have pictures available toward the end of the week.

 

AWESOME idea Easteregg. When you get some photos I would be VERY interested. I never gave it a thought but it sure is a GOOD idea!!! Good thinking!!!

 

EasterEgg,

Did you put a valve in line to the fuel tank and is your tank higher than the main one? Also did you feed the line to the bottom or near the bottom of the main tank?

 

Sounds like you have built the worlds greatest long range recon vehicle. Great idea tell us more.

 

OK here are some more details,

Yes there is a valve between the 2 tanks all the hard plumbing is 1/4 npt either brass or 316 SS with 3/8 gas line. All the lines and fitting are well protected near the frame. I filled the tank after it was installed with the factory tank empty. I opened the valve and it emptied in about 1 minute and filled it to 3 bars on the gas guage. I'm a little concerned about head pressure effecting one or the other when both are full so I will probably leave it closed until the factory tank is just about empty then open it and leave it open. Although the gas may run back into the extra tank on hill climbs so some field testing will be in order to determine the best time to switch.

The outlet on the extra tank is on the verticle side at the rear as low as possible I wasn't too crazy about having all the plumbing below it. I tapped into the factory tank at the lowest flat point. If you look at the bottom of the tank toward the front the guard attaches with a screw the flat spot between it and the frame is where I put the bulk head fitting. Which btw was the hardest part to find, one that was inexpensive and fuel compatible. Nylon was the material I chose with a Viton o-ring to seal.

The bottom of the outlet on the extra tank is about 4 inches higher than the inlet at the bottom of the factory tank. The tank is about 7 inches tall. I was unsure about how the gas would flow. I thought it might get to a certain level in the factory tank and level off with equal head pressure but that was not the case it did drain completely.

I used a 1 1/2 pipe nipple for the filler with a cap that I drilled and tapped for a breather on top and T'd into the factory vent system. The pictures will show it that way but it's not actual because I needed to changed it slightly because of clearance problems with the bottom of the seat. I had to route it out the side of the cap instead.

I put heat tape on the side of the tank and I'm planning on wrapping the muffler in that area just to be sure of controlling heat.

I made the tank from 16 gage 316 SS because I could get it free from work. I would recommend 1/8 inch aluminum it's easier to work with and won't warp as much when welded either. I did weigh it out of curiosity with the plumbing it ways 8 lbs empty and I'm guessing about 20 lbs full.

Hope that answer's most questions if not ask away.

 

Something I forgot to ask is the tank roughly the same size of the tool box originaly installed. Apart from that good work 3 bars is a good point to work from especially when you use it for emergencys. Well done!

 

It's larger than the tool box it fills the whole space between the frame rails front to rear. Roughly 7" wide x 9" long x 7" deep rectangle with a cut out for the tail light and angled away from the exhaust slightly on that side.