Welp guys, the adventure is probably going to begin tomorrow. Hopefully it will be started and finished tomorrow with no difficulties encountered along the way. I would like to get some advice on it before I start.

Basic rundown, I tore a small slit in my rear driveshaft boot with a stick or something. Anyway, after I discovered it I siliconed it up real good to make sure it would help prevent water from getting in there. I also removed the drain screw from the rear, so if water did get in there it would just leak out and no be allowed to stand in there and really tear stuff up.

Any advice anyone can give on doing this replacement would extremely help. Especially anyone with a service manual.

If you could look up the instructions and just make sure I have everything right I'd appreciate it.

From my understanding, I just disconnect the rear shock mount at the bottom. Then undo the two bolts/nut whatever they are on the side of the swingarm. This will allow the swingarm to shift back, I then disconnect the driveshaft and slide on the new boot. I hear this can be a major pain, I then connect it back up and bolt everything up, etc. and I'm done.

My question is, what are the correct torque settings I should put on all the bolts/nuts that have to be removed or loosened during this procedure?

Thanks for any tips or help you can give for this process. By the way, I'll be sure to take a lot of pictures and make a document for you guys and have NYROC stick it on his website. Lata.

 

Yeah, give me photos. Here are some crude instructions. I will add/fix it as you figure out more.

Jackstand it.
Take off tires.
Loosen and remove lower shock bolt.
Loosen or remove the brake cables and breather hose.
Loosen/remove boot clamps.
Loosen and remove the bolt on one side of the swingarm pivot, loosen and remove the nut on the other side.
Remove the stud that the nut was on on one side of the swingarm pivot (one of them unscrews).

Pull swingarm rearward until drive shaft is loose. Do not let swingarm fall on foot, or hit ground hard.

Clean mess out of boot area.

Replace boot and install everything reversing the previous steps.

 

Hey Nyroc, I've started tearing into it and hit an area where I need a little input.

When you started, loosen and remove the bolt on the pivot side (Do you mean the bolt on the side where the boot is?)

That is a 29MM Bolt. Man talk about umm hard to get off, I stopped trying to come and ask you about it.

I tried using a breaker bar and human strength, well I got it to turn a tiny bit. So I stuck the impact on it and have it one full revolution around. It seems damn hard to take off, took probably 10 seconds to get a full turn out of it with the impact. Just want to make sure this is correct.

Also on the NUT side, which is the left side if you are sitting on the bike. After you would remove that nut, does the service manual state that I need a Allen Wrench of any kind? The center of that bolt/shaft is notched for a Allen to go into. Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I continue, because I do not have an Allen to fit that shaft.

Also, could you check and make sure the threads on that 29MM bolt isn't reverse thread. Cuz it is hard to get to moving.

 

I have the page open right here.

There is no mention of a left hand thread. They only say 112ft to put that bolt on. The same with the nut on the other side. Yes, that stud on the left side is an allen. They say that only needs to have 14ftlbs on it to tighten it on (but then crank the nut on afterwards to 112ft-lb).

Oh yeah, they did say to remove the gear case (final drive, ring and pinion) first. I can't see how that has anything to do with that tight bolt. Also, I can't see any reason to open up the gear case, so try not to do that.

 

Thanks NYROC.. I worked my way through it, I just threw the impact on it for a little bit longer and it came free. I guess it was just a tight fit on there. Anyway, I finished the replacement and I have everything back together except for a few plastics pieces and the right side floorboard.

I have pictures and I am constructing some directions on the replacement, I'll email them to you when I'm done.

Thanks for all the help.

Oh btw, I searched about the boot before I started and several people complained of how much trouble it was to get on. I didn't have any trouble at all getting it on, just slipped right on and tightened up the clamps. Just FYI for anyone doing a search.

 

Good job.

If you knew exactly what to do and expect, and had no setbacks, how long would that boot replace take you?

 

3-4hrs by yourself. Probably 2hrs with some help.

It is a lot of screws/bolts/nuts and realignment checking etc that eats up the time when you do it alone.
It's not very hard though, just time consuming.

Check your email NYROC.

Install document sent.

 

I feel your pain. Replaced my swingarm pivot bearings a few weeks ago. One contributing factor to the stubborness of the bolts maybe due to the threadlock sealant on them. As you have already determined , you remove and re-install the right side pivot first, tighen it to the specs, for the left side has the jamb nut, due this the side that preloads the bearings. Re-installing the swingarm was somewhat of a challange,,aligning the driveshaft, while aligning the swingarm to install the bolts. Twice the seals "popped" out during the installation. From the design, I see removal/inspection/greasing the swingarm pivot bearings will have to be added to my list of "spring" cleaning/maintance items. My pivot bearings "fell" out when I removed the swing arm. The seals were shot (too much muddy water exposure I suppose).. I had starting hearing an occassion "pop", but when I performed the swingarm check as per the service manual, they felt fine. But when i removed the forward most lower bolt in the rear differential skid plate, water came out of the swingarm tube. I finally determined it was entering the swingarm through the pivot seals. Just glad I caught it when I did.

 

Yeh, it actually wasn't that bad. The only thing that was aggravating about the whole thing was taking out all the black plastics screws and floorboard. The actual realign of the swingarm wasn't hard the way I did it.

I just sat it in my lap, scooted under the 650 and placed the rear axle on two jackstands. Then I took a big block of wood and used it to support the front of the swingarm. Then with both my hands I reached to the front and aligned the shaft and slid it on, just had to scoot the jackstands forward once so they'd continue holding it. I'd say the realign took me about 1-2mins max.

I also made the jackstands an even height with the driveshaft, so that it wasn't sitting at an angle. It was just a straight push forward to get the driveshaft realigned.

About the 29MM bolt on the boot side, yeh it was difficult to get off and I do think you are right about the thread lock. The impact took care of it though, I was just worried something wasn't right at first. It screwed back in pretty easily and torqued down fine.

I inspected my bearings and they seemed fine, didn't have a problem with realignment of the bolts just had to get up a few times and go around to the other side to make sure everything was aligning correctly.

If I would have had help, it would have went a lot quicker. Just everytime you want to check something out, you have to get up and go around to other side, then go back, then go back again, then again and again, etc... haha..

 

Nemmeh, I didn't realize you were so close. Are there any good places to ride on that side of the Pearl River?