can not get this link to work.

 

How do I test the stator??

 

In the past I've relied on wiring diagrams from www.anythingatv.com for eton info. I've never seen an eton, but for troubleshooting electrical issues a good wiring diagram is all I need. But the diagram for the 90cc viper with reverse was just unreadable. In addition many of the other etons diagrams that were semi readable were wrong - like the number of wires at the quad CDI did not match the wiring diagram.

I searched again today for viper wiring diagrams and found some new legible diagrams at www.etonamerica.com. I haven't looked in complete detail yet, but it is a far cry better than anything I've seen before. Maybe anythingatv has updated their info as well - I haven't been there in maybe 6 months.

I need some time to review the new info. In the mean time, how many wires come out of your stator, and what are the colors?

Exactly how many wires come out of the CDI, and what are the colors?

In both of the above questions, report only the wires colors on the wiring harness side of any connector. I don't care about the colors of the short pigtail wires going into the stator (or CDI if the CDI has pigtail wires). What I want to do is compare your existing wires against the new wiring diagram. In the past (as I said earlier), the somewhat readable published eton diagrams (as with most other brands too) have been riddled with errors. And some (like your viper 90 with reverse) were totally unreadable. For the readable diagrams, most of the time I can see the diagram "typo" and fix it because I understand both electronics and ignition systems.

There's a lot of wires going to the CDI on your quad. On many of them I will have to make an educated guess as to their function, and how they interact, but at least I know where they go now (unless the diagram is wrong of course).

I like puzzles. I think that is why I do this. Tell me your wire colors and let's see what I can come up with after I study the new wiring diagram...

 

I also downloaded the manual and wiring diagram eton america. diagram seemed to be spot on, on the harness side as far as colors. I will get the info you want tomorrow sometime before noon (eastern)

 

Stator has 5 wires:
Black, Yellow/Red, White/Red - one pigtail
Blue/Yellow, and Black/Red - seperate plugs

CDI has 17 wires:
Purple, Yellow, White - pigtail
Brown/Blue, Brown/Black - pigtail
Green/Red, Green/White, Blue/Red, Gray/Red - pigtail
Brown, Black/Red, Black, Brown/Yellow, Gray, White/Blue, Green(Cyan)/Yellow, Black/White - pigtail

 

Not to change this up, but, went out today and now have a short. when i connect the battery it blow the 7 1/2 amp fuse.

 

forget about the short. just a case of temporary stupidity.

 

We've all been there...

 

These match up exactly, which is encouraging. I'm out of time tonight, but yours will be the first I respond to tomorrow night. I am working on this, and I have a plan of action being formed.

 

Ok, here we go:

1) Check the DC power connections to the CDI:

Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch, and turn the Engine Stop switch to the "run" position. Measure the DC voltage on the following wires in the CDI harness connectors using the 20 volt scale:

a. Measure the DC voltage from the Blk/Wht wire to the Blk wire. You should see 12 volts. (Blk is ground.) In addition this 12 volts goes to zero volts if you switch off the ignition switch and/or switch the Stop switch to the "stop" position.

b. Measure the DC voltage from the Brn wire to the Blk wire. You should see 12 volts. (Blk is ground.) In addition you should see this wire drop to zero volts when the ignition switch is turned off - but not just with the stop switch.

2) Test Stator Resistances from the CDI Connectors through the Wiring:

Leave the ignition switch turned on. Your remote module (if you have one) must be plugged in. The tether cord (if you have one) must be installed. Set your meter to measure resistance (ohms) on the 2K ohms scale (same thing as 2000 ohm scale).

a. Measure the resistance of the brn/yel wire to the blk wire. What do you measure? In addition, the reading should go to "open" when either the ignition switch is turned off, the remote is unplugged, or the tether pull cord is yanked off. This is measuring the continuity of the timing trigger wire from the stator through several kill switches to the CDI.

b. Measure the resistance of the Blk/Red wire to the Blk wire. What do you measure? This measures the AC Ignition Power winding in the stator through the wiring harness.

c. While we are measuring resistances, set your meter to measure resistances on the lowest scale you have. Hopefully that is 2 or 20 ohms (not Kohms or Mohms). Measure the resistance of the Wht/Blu wire to the Blk wire. What do you measure? I expect 0.5 to 1.0 ohms, but it shouldn't read zero ohms. This is measuring the ignition coil continuity from the CDI connector through the wiring and through the ignition coil.

d. Pull off the spark plug wire. Measure the DC resistance of the plug wire to the blk wire on the CDI connectors in the wiring harness. Play around with the scales until you get a stable reading other than infinite (open), or shorted. Tell me what you measured, and what scale you were on. This can vary all over the map depending on whether your high tension wires have resistance in the spark plug wiring. You could measure from about 10 ohms to 10,000 ohms. Don't worry about the range - this is complicated and completely normal. But it must not read zero ohms, nor infinite ohms. This is (of course) measuring the continuity of the ignition coil secondary winding.

This is the first step. If all this looks normal then we will need to measure AC voltages from the stator while cranking the engine. But if this uncovers discrepancies then we need to focus in on those and dig deeper.

The other wires on the CDI have to do with transmission issues. None of these should have anything to do with "no spark" problems. They might have something to do with bogging issues above idle. I don't know. For example, the grn(cyan)/yel wire tell the CDI that the brakes are applied. Why? I don't know for sure why this is necessary. The quad should start and run with the brakes applied. Maybe this has to due with transmission switching issues, or maybe the CDI is rev limited to idle speeds only if the parking brake is set - so you can't drive off at high speeds with the brakes on... (I know I've done that on my quad).

This is a start... We'll figure this out .