2006 Polaris Predator 90

I'm trying to adjust the float, and have a unique situation I haven't ran into before. The damper (ie, spring plunger top) on the float needle is not strong enough to hold the float up.

So, to flip the carb over, and adjust the float level to the surface ... just compresses the needle damper spring. I've taken and held the carb slightly tilted, and the spring has enough to push the float off ... and I've adjusted it to that for now. And, blowing through the fuel inlet, the carb will stop me blowing through it at that position. I just don't know how consistant that is.

It's the tiniest needle I've ever seen (and the most expensive $45). Does anyone know if an OEM Polaris replacement would do the same thing (maybe it's normal) ... Or, would a new one have enough spring to hold the float up?

Thanks, Neal

 

Welcome to the forums.
I'm not familiar with that particular carb but I'm confused on the "enough spring" you mention.
Doesn't the fuel hold the float up?
Hopefully "old polaris tech" will chime in. If not try the polaris section for him.

 

Sorry, I'll try and explain better ... Oh, and thanks for the response!

Most ATV/dirt bike float needles have a spring dampener on top, to help control bouncing and vibration. Normal practice is to flip the carb upside down, and set the float level with the carb base ... without compressing the needle dampener.

On mine, when I flip it upside down, the weight of the float fully compresses the dampener spring. This doesn't seem right, but I've never seen a float this small ... and maybe it never had enough spring to hold the float up when setting it?

Normally, I'd just buy a $15 carb kit ... but this one's a $45 needle/seat (shocked!!), with no other alternatives. If it was bad, I'd still spend the money to replace it ... but I'd hate to get one in, and find this is normal when new.

Any help again, would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Neal

 

Oddly enough, an OEM replacement carb for the predator 90 runs roughly $39 on Ebay. So it roughly would be an issue of what you'd want to spend the money on. But as far as your other question, the spring should hold the float. If it doesn't, it'll still work, but should be replaced.

 

This is a good chance to follow up, since I couldn't find answers to my question originally.

I did find the replacement float for ~$35 ... purchased it. To my surprise, it still doesn't have enough "spring" to hold the float up when flipping the carb over (to set height). I would say it is just moderately more spring force though.

I believe the new needle/seat is helping some with my flooding. Before the carb would overflow all the time just sitting, and I assume do the same running.

I still believe I have a lean spot, where the carb is running out of fuel just sitting. From time/time ... the motor literally will not rev past idle without stalling, it's got a real-throaty sound, and I believe it has no fuel supply. This is rare ... 1X/day, and only seems to happen when the quad is just started. If I let it idle for just a minute it will be gone.

In the end, I've come to the same conclusion as most ... scrap this carb, and convert to something more conventional. 20mm+ OKO & PWK's are chinese knock-offs, and require some significant modifications ... but I think would have fewer issues than dealing with the stock OEM carb.

P.S. I considered the Ebay OEM replacement carbs, but decided the same $$ invested into the original carb would yield better results. I still stick with that theory. I think replacing with a cheaper knock-off carb could create more issues than I'm having with the original carb.

Thanks, Neal