lt 80 wont start

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Feb 2, 2014 | 11:49 AM
  #11  
something you mentioned about the key switch , it has none but if you trace down the starter button to the end of the wiring harness there is a yellow plug it goes into all of which have no power but next to them there is a black plug and it has power going to one position on it
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Feb 2, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #12  
Quote: when I bypass the start switch the brake pedal still needs to be locked or it just cranks and wont start ,I tested the main wire going to the relay its a dark blood red wire with canvas wrapping , it has power running to it but the only way I have found to start it is by taking power from the battery and crossing the starter
that wire is on the power circuit side of the relay. so you have battery power going to the relay correct? if so, then you have a control circuit problem, meaning either the foot switch is bad, or you have a disconnect from the handle bar switches, or that breaker.

here is the wiring diagram, i dont see the breaker in it, so its probably for the older style, but either way, if you test for voltage on the wires going in and out of it, or test for continuity then you can verify its good or bad

lt 80 wont start-lt80wiring.jpg  

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Feb 2, 2014 | 12:33 PM
  #13  
Quote: something you mentioned about the key switch , it has none but if you trace down the starter button to the end of the wiring harness there is a yellow plug it goes into all of which have no power but next to them there is a black plug and it has power going to one position on it
the black plug i believe is the key switch harness. that can be bad.

it looks like you can jump the orange and red from the key switch together and use it without the key switch. i did it for a while on one of mine because i couldnt find the hood and key switch lol

if jumping those two wires together works, then its your key switch thats bad.
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Feb 2, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #14  
if i read it right, it says you have no key switch, then just grab the black "not being used" connector, and jump the orange and red.
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Feb 2, 2014 | 01:24 PM
  #15  
so what your saying is in the black harness link 2 of the terminals with connectors , the orange and the red .yes I have power going to the relay and yes the foot brake control works also ,and I know that the handle bar control is working also so I assume the circuit breaker under the seat is faulty and not letting power through to start
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Feb 2, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
Quote: so what your saying is in the black harness link 2 of the terminals with connectors , the orange and the red .yes I have power going to the relay and yes the foot brake control works also ,and I know that the handle bar control is working also so I assume the circuit breaker under the seat is faulty and not letting power through to start
you should have power at the relay itself on the red wire with the handle bar switch to on or run. if you dont then its either the handle bar switch or key switch not working or bypassed correctly.

put your meter on continuinity check, unplug the breaker, put your meter leads on both wires going into the breaker, if you have continuinity then its good. you can also check for battery volts on both sides of the breaker while its connected but i believe it only sees power when you use the push button to start.



basically, if you have no key switch at all on the quad, the red and orange MUST be jumped together, either solder the two wires together, use a scotch lock connector, or just a simple jumper wire between the two terminals to test. if those two wires arent jumped together, then the electrical system will not work properly. all the key switch does is connect the red and orange together and allow the voltage to pass thru.
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Feb 2, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #17  
your saying you have power going to the relay, are you only testing the red? cuz the red gets power directly from the battery, so no matter what, you will have power there. you need to see if you have power to the orange wire at the relay, thats the power wire that travels from the key switch, to the handle bar switch, to the relay. you should have power going to the orange wire at the relay even if the start button isnt pressed
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Feb 2, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #18  
U will have power at the relay directly from battery the relay is waiting for the start button to send power to energize the coil in the relay which will close the contact which will then send power to the starter and de-energizes when u let off the start button. Take ur kill/start apart make sure u have power coming to the start button, u can also with no power test continuity between terminals to the start button when pushing it. If u have no continuity pushing it in that start button is bad it's basically a manual contact
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Feb 2, 2014 | 04:17 PM
  #19  
Sorry u won't have power at the start button read diagram wrong. They are sending the ground thru it,power is already sitting on the relay as Damonsquad mentioned, but still check continuity on the start button to verify its good.
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Feb 2, 2014 | 04:42 PM
  #20  
Quote: Sorry u won't have power at the start button read diagram wrong. They are sending the ground thru it,power is already sitting on the relay as Damonsquad mentioned, but still check continuity on the start button to verify its good.
i'm not sure if he is familiar with a wiring diagram/electrical control/power circuit, so i tried to simplify it so that the average person can understand. i can see you know your way around electrical lmao. i never did until last year when i became a forklift mechanic and had training after training on reading and understanding diagrams

i think once he either gets a key switch, or connects the red/orange wire together, he should have power. problem is there is so many variables, but can easily be ruled out with a multimeter and the diagram. but i would say the easiest place to test everything is at the relay since that is where everything on the start circuit comes together.
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