LT-50, LT50A, etc.

Here you go:

1. Remove the exhaust from the cylinder and eliminate the washer that reduces exhaust flow. You will now experience more top speed.

2. Remove the stock air filter and install a K&N or Uni 2 stage foam pod. This requires that you get an air filter adapter. I use my own adapter but you can also get the filter adapter used on the Go-Peds. It will work just fine but use should use some red thread lock on the two screws (if they back off, they will go into the motor).

3. Pull the intake manifold and remove the hardened steel slotted restrictor. I heat the manifold and then place a large screw driver in the slot and turn -- The screw driver was kept in the freezer so that it would draw the heat out of the steel restrictor. Once you get it out, you can back fill the void with JB Weld and then remake the hole so that there is no transition. It is very easy.

4. Pull the carb. Remove the slide cover and eliminate the brass sleeve located between the slide and the slide cover. Next, raise the needle one clip position (make the needle higher). While you are there, pull the float bowl and locate the pilot jet. Remove it. You will see that there is a second pilot jet located just behind the one you removed. Leave that one alone -- it is the correct size for the unrestricted engine. NOTE: On occasion, the fuel needle and seat is too small. If you are skilled at jet work, you can attempt to drill it and hone a new seat for the needle. This may only be necessary if you cannot get full throttle to hit without falling off within 15 feet.

5. Oil injection. Remove it if you want. Your engine will be alot happier. At a minimum, you can reduce the rate of oil.

6. Clutch. This is slightly more involved but can be done. Simply increase the spring tension on the clutches. If your clutch is old, just buy a new one and modify it before installation.

7. Exhaust baffle. Remove it and cut the last 3" off. That will eliminate the spark arrestor function so drive safely. I braze a down turn on the exhaust tip just to direct the exhaust away from the plastic and to direct the noise into the ground. I hear a couple of people have made pipes for this machine by why???

8. So you want more power ---- Pull the cylinder. Raise the cylinder so that the transfer ports are fully open when the piston is at BDC. Then correct the squish by decking the cylinder to achieve a .030" squish. I forgot the head cc number I use so just go with a static compression number of 160. Watch the jetting and the spark plug heat range. That B6 is a burner!

Now, after you consider all of this work realize that for about a grand, you could have had a Kasea super mini 50. It is the same size as the LT50 but offers electric starter, auto choke and a CVT transmission (just like the full size Skyhawk 50). It also has front and rear suspension and full floor boards. I have one as a pit bike that really moves. At Pizmo, I can haul my 200 pound rear just about anywhere.

Just a thought here, Ive been inside my sons Lt50 at least a million times. If in fact the jets are clean and you know they are clean. And it idles fine but dies when you give it gas. Check for an exhaust leak around the header pipe. A lak of back pressure will cause this. Also, check for a blown head gasket. A small pin hole blown out will allow it to suck to much air and not rev up. These are just thoughts. Without the quad, its very hard to tell. But on another thought, if it is a kfx50, it is a new machine and should still be under warranty. The dealership would take care of this for you.
Now, I just wanted to say that if you only removed the exhaust restrictor, you need to remove the fuel restrictor also from the intake manifold. This is not a modification, but a major restriction from the factory for liability issues. Your quad will not be a racer or anything without this, but at least it will run better. This is just my .02 cents.

Good luck,

DStroyer