take the cdi out of the rubber mount. there should be a green wire going across the back of the cdi. clip that wire and you have no more rev limiter.

Mark

 

Just for everyones info. We ran the dyno on the Technigas pipeon a stock 50 with a Uni. Funny thing is teh stock pipe with a Uni put out 4 hp breiefly, then started a fast fall off until dead at 7500 rpm. THe Tech put out 4 hp also, but only dropped off to 3 hp that it held to 9500 rpm then fell. We will test all our other pipe soon. SO, This pipe on a 50 will increase the rpm to 9500 without a power loss. In speed this was a 10mph increase on the dyno.

 

Change it over to pre-mix!!! My sons had the same problem, what happens is that the oil resevoir actually bleeds itself into the carb. Causing it to be rich in oil. If you decide to change over to pre-mix, pull the skinny black line off of the front of the carb. This is where the oil is introduced into the engine. Cut a small section out of it about an 1" long and plug it. Stick that back on the carb where it originally came off. Take the other end that you cut off of and plug it to. Now the tricky part, since the oil was introduced into the engine after the carb has mixed the fuel before, you will have to re-jet the the carb. Because now the mixture coming through the carb is thicker since oil is now in the gas. The problem now is that the stock jets in the carb are not a common item at the local accessory shop. They have bigger threads. I used a reamer to open my jet up it took several attempts but the girl would fire right up everytime and it also had more power. I just purchased a 70cc kit for my sons E-ton Txl-50. It comes with everthing you could ever want for this machine for $320. Even a brand new 24mm carb. Look them up on the web under moped hospital you will have to call them to get the atv parts but they have them in stock. The kit even comes with a new intake, reeds, carb, piston, cylinder (ported ready to go), header, pipe, silencer, clutch spring, gaskets, high compression head.

 

Not sure which bike your talking about but if its the Viper the CDI box is in a rubber holder on the left side of the bike near the front.I pulled the front nose cone off(just 2 screws and carefully unclip it) and you can reach your hand in and pull it out of the rubber holder.There is a green wire on the backside of the box.It simply comes out and goes right back in.Just snip this wire in half and reassemble. (whoops didn't see the second page, Markvette has it covered)

 

I still believe the start-up problem lies in the oil injection. For some reason mine use to do the same thing and never could figure out what was going on. Until I let it sit over the winter and noticed this oil coming out of the overflow of the carb..So I converted mine over to pre-mix. Now I control how much oil is going into my engine(fool-proof). But remember that you will have to re-jet the carb to do this. I just finished putting on the kit I bought from Moped Hospital and wow what a power increase!!! No kidding it will literally pull the front wheels and tote them for at least five feet. No way would a stocker do that. I did lighten the rear clutch shoes to give it a higher stall speed. But the kit I bought cost me $320 for the power pack kit and I spent another $48 for the Polini carbon-fiber reeds. Well worth it. The cylinder has a different port configuration and it doesn't need porting. Sounds like a CR80 now. Now power valves of course but rips through the rpm's though. I weigh in at 175lbs. imagine a small kid hitting the throttle. I also put a twist throttle on it. Couldn't find a cable for the stock thumb throttle. The following stuff was taken off of my sons atv to save on weight: battery, starter, starter idler gear assembly, starter drive gear(on crank itself), along with the one-way bearing, tool box, air cleaner box,oil resevoir, oil injector itself, handlebar clamp cover, the heavy useless exhaust, and a few more odds and ends. Trust me if you are unhappy with the power of the stock weak sissy E-ton you will be elated with this kit. All in one noe bull crap opinions on what parts to combine for a reasonable price. You will be going froma stock 49cc to 70cc, a stock 18mm carb to a 24 flat slide Mikuni knock-off. I need to change the pilot jet a size or two but other than that no bogs. Especially with the higher stall speed it will throw my but off the back if lean back any at all.Hope this helps---Tony

 

So what did you do about the exhaust pipe? Did you go aftermarket or did one come with the kit, which I doubt.
Also, I wondered how the Technigas pipe Eton 50 was doing? Did you have to change filter, clutch springs, jetting,etc.
Just wondered what you had to do to get it to run well.
Thanks!

 

We're running the Tecnigas pipe on a Polaris Scrambler 50... we've got it running well now.

So far we've done this...
Uni Filter
105 main Jet
moved the needle up one position
milled 0.055" off the head
ported exit side of the exhaust port on the cylinder to match the exhaust pipe
2 base gaskets on the cylinder
Technigas pipe
5.5g roller weights
the cluctch springs that came with the pipe
19T front sprocket

It'll now top out arround 26-27mph and will lift the front wheels on a hard launch.

Bryce

 

The pipe came with the kit!!! $320 all included. I am in the process of jetting the carb a little but other than that ready to rip up some dirt. I am telling you without hesitation that the kit I bought is worth every penney. I have searched all around for a kit that I liked and didn't find anything that was reasonably priced. I just happened to call these people and just so happens that they were begining to start up their atv market. If they can make a moped haul butt they can make an atv with a moped engine run good.