The stock reeds will crack and scratch up ther cylinder. You should consider replacing with Boyensen (I'm out of reed material at the moment ) [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
Seems like you have worked thru the piston part fine [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Doing good dad! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
BTW compression should be around 130 stock.+-

 

what sorta price should I be looking at for that? I did notice some rust on the part of the reed you can see from the crank side. is it a fairly simple re&re?

would you reuse head gasket, or am I being too cheap?

 

The head gasket is aluminum and designed to squish and seal. Once removed it should be discarded and a new one put on. You should have bought a top end set ,and that has all needed gaskets.Once the carb is removed, simply undo the 4 screws holding the reedcage in place and remove it. Your done!

 

thanks Bubba and everyone else. got all my parts (finally) today. piston kit only came with rings. had to buy circlips and gaskets extra. despite how frugal I am, I broke down and spent the extra $10 for the 2 gaskets. I also bought the Boyesen Reeds for $32 (Can). got the cylinder bored. just gotta get motivated tonight to put it all together.

When you take the reed valve off, looks like the bottom screws will be tricky; no room for impact driver because the metal guard is in the way. Will probably need stubby screwdriver, i just hope it breaks the screws. I really hate the fact they use these screws because of the cheap production cost. wherever I can, I always replace with hex-head bolts.

Is there a gasket for the reed valve, and does it need to be replaced??Do you need loc-tite on the screws like Suzuki says to use (has anyone NOT used loc-tite and had those screws work loose)?

 

BTW, I'm completely outta touch on pricing. when I got the reeds and saw what I was paying for, I nearly cried. Man, that R&D and Marketing are sure expensive, because material and production is pennies.