LT80 - Going for broke !!
#11
OK, I've got the clutch shoes lightened, and all back together (boy I hope I did it right!) and still waiting on the cyclinder gasket. I've another interesting problem (maybe). A good friend of mine gave me a brand new 20mm carb that someone had ordered and left at his shop (it is paid for). Is this something worth trying? I know alot of guys run them, but does it really help? The biggest problem I see is I need to run the stock air cleaner. (for our water crossings) Any ideas on how?
#13
Well I got it all together Fridaynight and so far we've run 2 full tanks of gas through it. It seems to run alot better. And it has alot more get up and go. It just seems to be alittle slugish taking off. (its not bad) After cutting so much off the rear clutch shoes, I geuss I was exspecting it to take off like a rocket. I have not got the front bushing yet, so I think that will help. Top speed seems good. (with the 18" shredders and stock gearing, I've seen approx 45 and I made him shut it down. Still not wide open) Do you think more clutch work should be done? I have no idea what to exspect or how this thing should run compared with all this "new" work I've done. A good buddy of mine rode with us yesterday. He has a 300 4x4 Honda and has drag raced my youngest son before (on the LT). They would stay about even until the 300 got up to about 4th gear and then would pull away. Yesterday they dragged again and my son ran off and left him in about 100 feet. But at that point I made him back off. So like I said, it does run alot better, just don't know if I should leave well alone or maybe do alittle more clutch work.?? By the way, what should be the result of lightening the rear clutch shoes?
#14
The lighter clutch weights and/or stiffer springs require more RPM for the shoes to fly out and engage. This allows the motor to rev considerably higher before the clutch engages and giving you a hard launch. My sons will carry the front wheels for about 6-8 feet on take-off and still top out around 40.
#15
Lightened shoes: what the last guy said,, basically it helps with stall speed.
As for what to do now,,, How many rollers are you running in the front clutch? I think a lil fine tuning here is the next step.
As for what to do now,,, How many rollers are you running in the front clutch? I think a lil fine tuning here is the next step.
#16
LT80 - How do I get a hold of you? I'm new to the Forum. I tried to PM you but I don't know if I did it correctly. I'd love to talk to you about doing some work on one of my LT80s-
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
#17
I'm running all 6, but I did drill the centers out as described by others in the past. (I can't remeber how big, off the top of my head) I did not have a gram scale at the time so I left them just a drill size or two smaller, so I should be able to drill some more if needed. I was hoping to get the longer front bushing (its on order) and I had thought about trying to take 2 rollers out while I had it all apart and try that. I was almost afraid that with the centers drilled and taking 2 out that it might be to much. I do have a set of old worn rollers that I could take the centers out of and use in the new rollers. Like I mentioned, it does run well. It seems like it will wind to the moon now. And once it does move, it goes really well. I may be exspecting to much out of all this. My son says theres a night and days difference between how it ran and how it runs now.
#19
Asfasasu3,
I have one of Jacks motors in my daughters quad. I had the same problem with it coming out of the hole slow. It was like a manual starting in second. I found the front clutch could not open enough to allow the rear clutch to fully collapse. Thus it was never going to its lowest gearing. This situation can vary with belt thickness and diameter. This may be why some say used belts are quicker then new. I shimmed the front clutch until the rear clutch would fully collapse while not being so lose that it would slip. Problem solved. Now it spins the paddles with ease. One more thing you may want to check...
I have one of Jacks motors in my daughters quad. I had the same problem with it coming out of the hole slow. It was like a manual starting in second. I found the front clutch could not open enough to allow the rear clutch to fully collapse. Thus it was never going to its lowest gearing. This situation can vary with belt thickness and diameter. This may be why some say used belts are quicker then new. I shimmed the front clutch until the rear clutch would fully collapse while not being so lose that it would slip. Problem solved. Now it spins the paddles with ease. One more thing you may want to check...
#20
I got the new front bushing last night. (for an 90 or older) I plan on getting it put in tonight and I'm going to try taking 2 rollers back out of the front and see what happens. Its not to bad taking off, about like it was when it was all stock. I took 2 rollers out and done a few mods about a year ago and it seemed to launch alot harder than it does now. I did not try running the rear clutches with this motor before I cut them down, but I cannot tell that it really done anything. Thats why I asked what it should do some posts back. (I knew it should have changed the rpm at take off but it didn't seem to) I know I've changed the motors power range some, but I don't think the take off is any different than it was before. Like I said, its not bad, but after about 15 feet it will really go. We have some 18" holeshots that are about 16" tall, and I would almost bet it would run faster with them than with the real 18" tall tires were running now. Once it gets wound up it fly's!! I'm going to try the front bushing and taking the rollers out, and I also have a new rear clutch spring that I might throw in. Would it be worth taking alittle more off the rear shoes?
THANKS TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!
THANKS TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!




