Just noticed on the weekend my daughters Rator 50 is getting very slow of the mark....engine revs but just like the clutch is realy slipping.... anyone got a parts break down and or Manual for it...

thanks in advance

R

 

earlier in this thread, MMade22 put it up on a download site.

here is the link: http://rapidshare.de/files/17459996/...04-06.pdf.html

 

Try Yamaha for the parts breakdown. You can see the parts breakdown there, or at BikeBandit (they show the prices).

 

Almost forgot to post my update..

I installed the Raptor 80 slide and throttle arm a couple of weekends ago. I left the jets alone. Still running the 50cc stock ones. My sons Raptor 50 now hits 20+ MPH easily and quickly now. Do buy the gasket if you plan on doing this mod. You will need it. Thanks for that tip atvingnc.

I noticed with the Procom CDI alone, we gained around 3mph on the top end and saw a very noticeable increase in the power band. By applying the carb & throttle mod after the CDI, we gained another 5+ mph and saw an even greater increase in the power band. This little atv rips it now. Quite impressive.

The only problem I am still facing is that the atv now seems like it is loading with fuel and stalls if the throttle is pinned from a stand still. It does this every time if you don’t ease into the throttle from a dead stop. I plan on trying to fix this over the long weekend coming up.

It seems that there is not an air/fuel screw adjustment on this carb. The manual leads me to believe that you need to take the float apart in the carb and bend it some how to make this adjustment. Is this correct? Does one really need that fuel gauge they show in the manual or can you just try it until you get it right?

 

guitars911

I have the same problem with my sons Raptor 50 after doing the carb/jet update. I have read that adjusting the float can lean out or richen the fuel mixture but I have not attempted it. There are some really good articles on the web about carburation and jetting and may help you understand what exactly
needs to be done and how to do it to get the results you want. Usually the half to full throttle mixture is adjusted by a combination of various sources, the main jet needle valve, slider notch, idle jet, but the Mikuni carb. has a set main jet needle valve length. Let me know how it goes. I may be interested in giving the float adjustment a try.

 

guitars911

DieselTech posted this in response to a similar issue on another thread last week, it might help you out:

"Actually, you could need a larger pilot jet - I think the stock one is a 12.5. Before you try that though, look on the left side of the carb for a small rubber plug above the idle set screw. Pop the plug out and adjust the pilot screw (you'll see it once you get the plug out). You will want to turn it counterclockwise (I think) to richen up the idle mixture. Turn it 1/4 of a turn at a time, and keep track of how far you turn it. Also, warm the machine up before you make these adjustments, and make sure the choke is off properly - these machines' choke levers actually can be turned too far towards the off position and it causes problems - you should turn it just until it hits the detent, it will go a little more than that , but that's too far.

No air leaks at the carb boots, right? The main jet doesn't meter air at idle, so that's not your problem. Rule of thumb for the pilot jet is that if you have to turn the pilot screw out more than 2 1/2 turns (from all the way in), you need the next larger size jet.

Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out. "

after i did the slide mod , i playes with these adjustments, it works, just havent quite got the combo perfect!

 

I tried the adjustments for the idle speed and idle mixture. I was able to get the machine to idle and
run at full throttle very well with these adjustments but I was still not able to solve the full throttle from idle stalling. I did notice that it did not stall when I went from the throttle at say 1/4 or 1/8 to full. it seems that the RPM being higher helps. I also see that going from idle to say 1/2 throttle does not casue the stalling.

I definitely found that the idle mixture screw needed adjusting after the new jets 12.5 and 76.2 where installed. I was also having problems with the machine idling low and stalling when put in gear so I adjusted the idle speed screw a little. One of the ways to know that the idle mixture is close is when you start the machine cold the choke is usually required and the engine should run ok. once the machine warms up it should start to run rough with the choke on (running rich). if it runs better with the choke on after it warms up then the idle mixture is too lean. this can also be applied to the main jetting size and running at higher speeds.

 

Thanks for the quick tips guys.

The pilot screw adjustment is easy enough to try tonight after work. I hope that will help.

As far as adjusting the float, and after looking at page 5-7 of the service manual again, it appears that one can make that fuel level gauge (PN: YM-01312-A, 90890-01312) out of a piece of clear tubing. Then just ink on some millimeter lines. Stand the atv up on its rear, attach the gauge to the drain pipe, loosen the drain screw and measure as shown in the picture. Then if necessary, remove the float assembly and bend the float tang as necessary to get the fuel level to spec. Seems easy enough, but I have a feeling I will need another new gasket… ( Float Chamber Gasket PN: 22F-14184-00-00 around $5.50)

I am thinking that the installation of a shorter slide has caused a rich condition off idle. My theory is that since the slide is now shorter, the needle is now pulled out of the main jet a lot more when going to WOT off idle. I’m not sure if you can get a longer needle, but leaning out just off idle should cure this, I think…

 

on the 05 06 raptor 50 it is a brass plug that must be drilled out be carful not to mess up the head of the screw. i did every thing form the start cdi jet carb slide roller ***** widing kit protaper bars off set rims with nice tires my son is know off running a pw 80 wants o learn to ride a motorcycle good luck

 

Hey guys, just thought I'd let you know this: the Raptor 50 carb and 80 carb are the same EXCEPT for a few internals (jets, slide, etc.). One of those pieces is the nozzle - and maybe it is part of why you are experiencing hesitation issues. You put Raptor 80 carb parts in (jets, slide) but didn't replace the nozzle. The part# for a 2005 Raptor 80 nozzle is 4EM-14141-78-00. It is item 31 in the picture on the online parts breakdown for the intake. On my Raptor 50, I replaced the pilot jet, slide, nozzle, and main jet. I also drilled the main jet out to a size 80 (it is a 76.3 stock on the 80). I adjusted the pilot screw and idle, and it runs great. Just my 2 cents.