Scramblator,

First off the K&N is a great idea but you should not have to lower the needle. You NEVER want to lower the needle unless it is running rich but adding a clamp on filter will automaticly lean it out and if you lower the needle you will lean it out even more. You dont want to run lean or you will burn the piston up.

When you add the K&N you need to let it run at idle for a bit and do a plug check to see what color the plug is. The perfect color is a brown to tan. Grey to white is lean and drk brown to black is rich. It is better to run more rich then slightly lean. Most of these atv's run rich from the factory so adding the filter will compinsate for that. Dont mess with the needle unless you have to.

 

I all ready had the needle set to its leanest setting. I'm at 5100 feet and it smoked liked a worn out diesel.
Using the factory needle settting. The clip was set at the third groove in the needle from the
factory. I had moved it to the highest notch on the needle. I moved it down one notch when i added the kn filter.
I will be checking the plugs to see if it needs to be moved another notch.

The filter i got was kn 62-1513. here is the link also http://www.knfilter.com/vent.htm

 

I forgot to answer the other parts of the question.

The ear the factory breather bolted to needs to be bent no matter what.
Otherwise it make contact with the filter. You really do not want to wear a
hole into the filter. A pair of pliers and it is taken care of. I doubt you will have
to mess with the carb. I am at a much higher altitude so I have to tweak everything I own
that has a carb to make them run. The stock setting was way to rich, down in PA it will
probably work well.

 

Scramblator,

You are not far from me. I live in Lancaster and go riding all the time. If you like to ride we should hook up. My son is also 7.

Kurt

 

2Many/MoparRob,
Thanks for all the info, I'm starting to feel edu-makated (spelled wrong purposely...) about the mechanics of these things... Thanks for the part number Mopar, I'm going to order one tomorrow morning. I was told by a friend earlier tonight that the Heavy Duty clutch kit I am considering (off that website that sells Honda ATC70 parts), probably won't fit my son's Yamoto 70 b/c his is an automatic vs. the ATC70 being a 3-speed semi-auto... I figure the K&N Air Filter will help, but it needs some "get up & go" out of the hole, and my friend says that's mostly the clutch because he feels his Yamoto is getting plenty of RPM's, it's just slipping something terrible...

2Many,
We would love to go riding with you guys. You're only like an hour or so away, if that. Do you ever take your son to Tower City? So your son has both the Redcat 110 and that Quazi 110? Is the Quazi 110 physically smaller than the Redcat 110 in regard to seat height to foot peg distance, handlebar reach, etc.? My son's best friend has a Redcat 150, which I believe is the same chasis, etc. as your son's Redcat 110, just has the bigger 150cc motor... However, his friend's Redcat 150 is a little big for my son (physically), but my son is only like 50" tall (4',2") and only 52lbs. Also - Is that Quazi 110 an automatic?

My son's friend's neighbor has the Yamoto 110 & all three boys do laps in the farm field out back of their house. There are also some low tech trails out there. Both of their dad's ride in our group and also two of their neighbors and two of their cousins, etc. We're always looking to expand our riding areas and invite others to ride with our group around here.

 

Scramblator,

I know with alot of these automatic atv,s they are just simi auto's stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear with the shifters removed. Then they put a full cover over it to look like an automatic. I have seen this many times thats why they are so slow taking off. Can you actually take the cover off to see the belt? These are clones of old hondas and the old hondas were semi auto.

 

2manytoys is correct about these transmissions. They are based on an old honda design.
There is a wet clutch hidding inside that case. If you take a close look at the case halves.
You will see the flats where the shifter and kick start levers would go if it was machined to
accept them. Not sure which gear they are locked in. I'm hoping to take my daughters yamoto 50 apart
this winter. I'm curious as to whether or not it can be converted back to a shifter.

 

Actually, my son's 2005 Yamoto 70 has a shifter and it has 2 positions, down is in gear and up is in neutral... In fact, I have 2 new things I discovered / heard...

1.) If I shift down out of neutral and hold it (in other words, don't just "click" down & release, like you normally would on a manual shift, but rather push the shifter down and hold it...), it seems to act sort of like a clutch as when I click it down & hold it, I hear the tranny engage, but I can rev up the motor and it doesn't move... But then if I start to let the shifter back up slowly with the motor reving, the tranny slowly starts to bite and move forward...

In fact, I stopped by the Yamoto dealer yesterday where I bought it and brought this up and he confirmed that behavior is normal for these Yamoto 70's do, but he recommended that we don't do it as it will tear up the tranny. Any clue what makes it do that and/or why it will tear up the tranny?

2.) I asked him about using the heavier duty springs in the clutch to make it "more" aggresive and he said that heavier duty (a.k.a. stronger) springs woud actually make it "less" aggresive out of the hole... (?) He explained that it has a centrifical clutch so it's designed to make the bike rev higher to start moving, so that if you reversed this set-up to make the clutch engage at lower RPM's, it would actually make it more of a dog... Does this sound correct to you guys?

If so, how do these "more aggressive" clutch kits work for the Scramblers that I always see mentioned?

 

The clutch kits for Polaris atv's are much different than the Yamoto. A stronger primary spring in a polaris will give it a higher engagement in which it will take off stronger. Your dealer is wrong. The stronger the spring the higher the rpm's will be.

 

is there a way to raise the engagement rpms of the centrifugal Clutch ?
I read an article about the KTM dirt bike that I think should apply to these Honda copies...
http://www.cycleimprovements.com/docs/ktmtech.html
read the part about the clutches there's 2 sections I think!

later,
Chad