Making spacers
#11
on the kazumas I removed the front suds and replaced them with 2 1/2 inch 3/8 bolts ..the heads fit in the hubs so they dont turn...for spacers I took 2" long thick wall lugnuts and drilled them all the way through...widened the frt 4" that was the kazuma 110's...
when we got the lt 80's I just transfered them over along with wheels....they have the same hubs ,brakes, and a-arms as the kazuma....they work great ...I used grade 5 bolts ...the grade eight bolts are too hard and can be brittle under sideways pressure they are made to hold tight and strong not under the constant sideways pressur and flex
when we got the lt 80's I just transfered them over along with wheels....they have the same hubs ,brakes, and a-arms as the kazuma....they work great ...I used grade 5 bolts ...the grade eight bolts are too hard and can be brittle under sideways pressure they are made to hold tight and strong not under the constant sideways pressur and flex
#13
Sweet ! I'm still not sure why they dont make the a bit wider from the factory... It seems a very inexpensive change that would make a big difference . I really appreciate all the feedback !
#14
i tried this on my sons 4 stroke 90 before buying spacers. it worked. i added about 1 inch / side. since the washers are now made in china, like everything else, it was hard to get the same spacing for all three lugs on each hub. each washer had it's own thickness, so you couldn't just put the same number of washers on each lug and have the same spacing. i bought some 2.5" / side machined spacers that work well, but i had to drill out the hub and rim to use bigger bolts. much more solid and evenly spaced.
#15
Originally posted by: RAMTechRC
Remember, the more width you have, the greater the stress on the suspension. I bent my yamoto a-arms due to jumping with a wide front end.
Remember, the more width you have, the greater the stress on the suspension. I bent my yamoto a-arms due to jumping with a wide front end.
#16
I didn't use washers. Don't seem like they would work as well, or be as stable, as using nuts on the bolt.
I removed the stock wheel studs, bought some 3/8" bolts, and put 3 nuts to space it out.
Worked great on our LT80 and held up to the abuse of racing.
There are numerous ways you can do it, as has been suggested.
Good luck
I removed the stock wheel studs, bought some 3/8" bolts, and put 3 nuts to space it out.
Worked great on our LT80 and held up to the abuse of racing.
There are numerous ways you can do it, as has been suggested.
Good luck
#17
From my son's 50cc, I took .75" round steel stock and faced off to exactly 2.00" length on a lathe. Then, I threaded both ends (m8 x 1.25 for my studs), then screwed them onto the existing axle studs w/ loctite for safety. Next used m8 bolts to attach the wheels to the new spacers. The extra 4" width on the rear seemed to make a big difference in the stability.
#18
Originally posted by: mywifesquad
How wide did you go RAMTech? And how high were you jumping? Thanks. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: RAMTechRC
Remember, the more width you have, the greater the stress on the suspension. I bent my yamoto a-arms due to jumping with a wide front end.
Remember, the more width you have, the greater the stress on the suspension. I bent my yamoto a-arms due to jumping with a wide front end.
#20
The ones on the little xl50 are just pressed in. I think I'll just need to get high strenght bolts (longer) and I think I can get about 1 1/2 - 2 inches each side . I'm going to just try the front first. Some mentioned and the were dean on that you can also reverse the rim's . The offset is differnt on each side of the rims I have so I'll give that a shot as well to try to reach 2 inches for each side. let me know how yours turns out. Thanks !






