SORRY!!!!!!!!!!
I double checked the price. I had the wrong part.
The price you paid is acceptable. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Just got finished checking coil. Let first explain how I did it and what I got and then someone can tell me if I did it right and what my findings are.
Set meter at 20 ohms.
Black lead to spark plug connection( without spark plug wire being in place) and red lead to one of the two connections. This produced a reading of 13.78 ohms
Black to spark plug connection and red to the other connector. This produced a reading of .01
I assume the coil is bad because I should have gotten similar readings from both connectors?
Is that correct?
Hopefully, this explaination and the assistance from the resident expert will help someone else having similar problems.

 

No one ever responded to the readings or the way I did the testing but that is ok. GOT THE NEW COIL IN TODAY. Put it on and the sure enough a nice blue spark. Put plug in engine and she fired up right away. Onto something else. I know I will have some more questions as this build continues.

 

Sorry Ras, I fell asleep at the wheel........didn't mean to leave you hangin' on the readings. I've been spending my intro-net time in the garage majal preppin motorsickles for the TT race this weekend [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Not a problem on the delayed response. We all have lives outside of our computers. I do have another question. When you move the clip on the needle valve down (towards the bottom of the needle) are you causing the engine to run leaner or richer. I had to move mine all the way to the bottom before the engine would hold a constant idle and provide good throttle response. Is this ok or do I have something else going on. The engine was just bored 40 over, head shaved .10, dual reeds and modified reed body, and stock pipe.

 

You prolly have the stock (92.5) main jet in it. The motor obviously wants a lil different mixture.
You can leave the needle there or lower the main jet. Either is fine.
FYI: clip up/needle down leans the mixture.

 

Took a little while off from working on the bike. Although, I did get it back together today. Engine ran fine but needed to be choked by covering the carb before it would start. I guess I will take the carb off and clean it real good... again. Replaced the petcock with one from a Banshee. I like that much better and it was a lot cheaper. Also, not sure if i need to rejet the carb for the modifications to the engine and reed block? Any thoughts anyone.

 

Finally, I found the problem with the carb. It was the choke, as I always had suspected. After removing and recleaning the carb I focused on the side port where the choke tube enters the bowl. I tried to blow air thru the hole, nothing came thru. I tried stiff wire and carb cleaner all to no avail. I finally resorted to a 1/16 drill bit. I drilled a little at a time until I could blow air thru the hole and feel it in the bowl. The hole maybe a little bigger than stock but it works all the same. After putting everything together I tried the choke. It worked, but as I mentioned earlier the larger hole must dump more fuel into the engine. It will start and stop pretty quickly with the choke on. I then take the choke off and it starts up with no problem. Ultimately, it was this or a new carb. Now onto the next project.