Mods for 110-list here.
#41
This is the carb in his picture.
MIKUNI Carburetor 26mm Dirt Bike Xsport Thumpstar CA06 | eBay
This carb is actually a VM22. Oh, and it is actually a Carburetor not a throttle body.
And here is the intake off the same sellers site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26MM-MIKUNI-CARB-MANIFOLD-INTAKE-CRF-XR-50-CRF50-XR5070-/200140304329?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp= mtr&hash=item2e994aafc9
And the air filter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-FOAM-AIR-FILTER-CLEANER-XR50-CRF50-KLX110-UNI-AF09-/200373878541?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp= mtr&hash=item2ea736bf0d
MIKUNI Carburetor 26mm Dirt Bike Xsport Thumpstar CA06 | eBay
This carb is actually a VM22. Oh, and it is actually a Carburetor not a throttle body.
And here is the intake off the same sellers site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26MM-MIKUNI-CARB-MANIFOLD-INTAKE-CRF-XR-50-CRF50-XR5070-/200140304329?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp= mtr&hash=item2e994aafc9
And the air filter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-FOAM-AIR-FILTER-CLEANER-XR50-CRF50-KLX110-UNI-AF09-/200373878541?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp= mtr&hash=item2ea736bf0d
#42
This is the Mod list that I've added to my 7yr old Daughter's 2009 Tao Tao Mini Eagle/Loncin 110cc Engine with Full Auto Transmission. I bought a New OEM Honda TRX-90 Head and had it Port/Polished By Withrow Powersports (WPR), Shindy SS Valves, T-Bolts Stage II Hot Cam, Polished 52.4mm T-Bolts High Compression Cast Aluminum Piston, NGKX Iridium Spark Plug, ADA Polished Aluminum Head Plates, Mikuni Monster VM-26mm Carburetor (FMF Power Jet, Jet Kit), SKY Performance 26mm Ported Intake Tube with Polished Adjustable Base Plate Spacer, TRC Racing Gold CDI Box, TRC Racing Hyper Coil & 8mm Hot Wire, FMF Titanium 5.0 Full Exhaust (Head Pipe With Mega Bomb & Silencer), UNI Dual Stage Air Filter, TRX400EX Oil Cooling System, Coolster SSR Nitrogen Gas Shocks (all 3) Re-valved By WPR with Reservoirs, Front Wheel Disk Brake Conversion with Hydraulic Upgrade, Qualex Custom Ultralight Full Body Skid Plates (A Arms, Swing Arm, Belly) New Dyed Peace Powersport Black Plastic/Red Hood/Yamaha Raptor Style Headlights, Peace Powersport Flame Graphic Kit ITP Polished 18x8 - 19x6x10 Wheels with Maxxis Tires, 2001 TRX-90 Wheel Hubs, Fly Handle Bars/Cross Bar Pad.
Lubricants Used:
AMS Oil 10W-40 Synthetic Oil
AMS D.O.T.-4 Brake Fluid
AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease
Don't let people tell you that the China Made Loncin 50cc, 110cc, 125cc Engines are NOT Honda Knock offs. Every Part I listed in that Mod list that was associated with the motor was for a Honda TRX-90 Youth ATV with the 52.4mm Cast Aluminum High Compression Piston that I ordered from T-Bolt being a exception. Everything in the Top End of the Engine is exactly the same except for the Cylinder Bore Dimensions. I did decide to upgrade to a 2003 Honda TRX-90 Cylinder Head because my ATV Mechanic (Withrow Powersports) suggested I buy a Real OEM Honda TRX-90 Cylinder Head because the Honda Heads are made out of a little harder Cast Aluminum and he can be more precise with the Port/Polish Work that he does and it turns out better with the Honda Head VS the Loncin Head. The Loncin 110cc Engine thats in my Daughters quad has a Toker Crank and Rod which is supposed to be the same same Crank and Rod that Honda uses in there CR Mini Dirt Bikes. Go to www.tbolts.com and talk to Vince, he will help you build your China Quad any way you want for any type of racing or riding.
Lubricants Used:
AMS Oil 10W-40 Synthetic Oil
AMS D.O.T.-4 Brake Fluid
AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease
Don't let people tell you that the China Made Loncin 50cc, 110cc, 125cc Engines are NOT Honda Knock offs. Every Part I listed in that Mod list that was associated with the motor was for a Honda TRX-90 Youth ATV with the 52.4mm Cast Aluminum High Compression Piston that I ordered from T-Bolt being a exception. Everything in the Top End of the Engine is exactly the same except for the Cylinder Bore Dimensions. I did decide to upgrade to a 2003 Honda TRX-90 Cylinder Head because my ATV Mechanic (Withrow Powersports) suggested I buy a Real OEM Honda TRX-90 Cylinder Head because the Honda Heads are made out of a little harder Cast Aluminum and he can be more precise with the Port/Polish Work that he does and it turns out better with the Honda Head VS the Loncin Head. The Loncin 110cc Engine thats in my Daughters quad has a Toker Crank and Rod which is supposed to be the same same Crank and Rod that Honda uses in there CR Mini Dirt Bikes. Go to www.tbolts.com and talk to Vince, he will help you build your China Quad any way you want for any type of racing or riding.
#43
I ordered almost everything for my daughters 110 off eBay. Here's the link to the seller that I bought the TRX-90 Head From:
I think I just used the 2003 TRX-90 and CR-50 Model Year when I was ordering her parts. I wouldn't waste your money buying a Honda TRX/CR Cylinder Head. My 110 Loncin Head was fine, when I started researching on performance upgrades for the Chinese Sport Quads I ran across a member of one of the Forums that told me if I was planning on having the Head Ported/Polished to buy a OE Honda Cylinder Head because the Cast that the Loncin head was made out of was to soft and the Carbide Bits the engine builders use would tare chucks out of the Chinese Head and the air would not travel through the motor as well and it would cause the motor to be less efficient than a motor that had a OE Ported Honda Head. That was somebody talking about stuff they didn't know about. The Heads are identical and so is the casting material. The OE Loncin Head actually had more cooling fins than the OE Honda Head, so I'd say it would actually cool better.
This is the eBay Seller that I bought the SHINDY Stainless Steel Valves From:
Everything else I ordered from T-Bolt's USA. Vince is a great guy to deal with there, he can help you make sure you get the right parts. I ordered there CR/XR50 / TRX-90 Stage II Cam, the GOLD Series Racing CDI Box, Hyper Ignition Coil, and the T-Bolt's Cast Aluminum Pro-Lite Hi-Compression Piston from them. I think the Cam was $60 and the High Compression Piston Kit was $65. I spent a couple hundred dollars on performance parts and took my daughters 110 from the mid 3 to low 4 horsepower range and it jumped up in the 14's with the Stock Bore and stroke.
Here's the Link to T-Bolt USA's Web Site:
http://www.tboltusa.com
The eBay exhaust I have been attaching to my previous post is a pretty good exhaust but my daughters 110 made almost 2hp when I finally got the FMF Titanium 4.1 Mini System for the Big Bore CRF-50. I ended up winning it on eBay for $80 Shipped, and its one of the first ones they produced and its alot different than the FMF 4.1 Mini System they sell today. The Exhaust I won has a Full Titanium Head Pipe and Silencer and it has the Blue Graphics on the Silencer just like the 4.1 System they make for the new 450's. It says FMF Titanium 4.1 in big Font and underneath it says Big Bore Pro 50. My engine builder who owns Withrow Powersports said he talked to the tech at FMF and the exhaust I had $80 tied up in was the most desired Mini Exhaust Kits out there. He said he had seen those systems bring close to a grand with some of the Mini Racers out on the West Coast. I'm going to try to get in touch with FMF and see if I can talk them into welding a Small FMF Megabomb into the Ti Head Pipe.
If your building a Mini Chinese Quad for your kids to Drag Race and you need any Port/Polish Work done or you want a complete Mini Race Engine Built I would highly recommend Matt Withrow at Withrow Powersport's. His Port/Polish Work is nothing short of pure Art. If there's a Sport Quad Mini or Adult at the Drags, Motocross, or Hare Scramble Race that he's built it almost always wins its class. His motors also stay together and take more hell than most. You can check him out on on Face Book or his Web Site at the following links:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Withrow-Powersports-llc/130741993711743
Wix.com WithrowPowersports created by mattwithrow467 based on super-load-movers | Wix.com
Or you can reach him by the following means:
Phone - 1-(502)-803-0418e-mail -mattwithrow467@aol.com
When my Daughter can harness the horsepower its putting out now I'm going to have him put the 3spd Cases and Transmission with it, go with the biggest stroke and Chinese Cylinder available, and go with a 3 or 4 Titanium Valve Cylinder Head set up. She hasn't been beat by another kid on a Mini Sport Quad Yet Chinese, Japanese, Canadian, or American. Of course none of them have had anywhere near the upgrades, Performance Parts, or machine work that I've put into her's. I hope a lot more parents get into building the Mini's for there Kid's. It's a absolute BLAST!!! I've enjoyed watching her ride and race and building her $500 Chinese Quad as I have building, riding, and racing my own 100 Horsepower XC Banshee.
#44
Please listen to me when I say the Stock Chinese Carburetors are JUNK. My builder told me that 95% of all the Chinese Quads and Pit Bike he works on have nothing wrong with them but the junky Stock Carburetor. The performance mods you do will be pointless without a aftermarket Carb, they have a ton of issues like 0 adjustment, the caps are made into the tops so they cant be removed, the jetting is about half what it should be, the float bowl is riveted on and the list goes on and on. Even if you don't buy the same Carburetor I used, you can buy a used Carb off a similar style mini 4 stroke quad, or buy one from another manufacture in the size you want....PLEASE LISTEN TO ME ON THAT!
#45
Anyone have an idea on what jet sizes to put in a stock 110, that has the exhaust upgrade, and the bigger carb and intake, that thack 82 is running. I believe I am running a 95 main,which came stock and a 18 pilot. I have not tried adjusting the fuel screw yet but I have raise and lowered the needle with little to no effect on how it runs. Problem i have is when opened fast it stalls out or wants to. It does idle good, and when WOT it does not die but cuts in and out. It almost sounds as if it is bouncing off a rev limiter, but I know this is not true cause if I open it slowly I get just slightly past 3/4 throttle with it revving really high. When it cuts in and out it really is not revving very high. I have not been able to turn the fuel screw yet to do any tuning has right now there is only 1 inch of clearance so I either need to buy a flex jet to adjust it or the adjustable base to swing it out some.
#46
Anyone have an idea on what jet sizes to put in a stock 110, that has the exhaust upgrade, and the bigger carb and intake, that thack 82 is running. I believe I am running a 95 main,which came stock and a 18 pilot. I have not tried adjusting the fuel screw yet but I have raise and lowered the needle with little to no effect on how it runs. Problem i have is when opened fast it stalls out or wants to. It does idle good, and when WOT it does not die but cuts in and out. It almost sounds as if it is bouncing off a rev limiter, but I know this is not true cause if I open it slowly I get just slightly past 3/4 throttle with it revving really high. When it cuts in and out it really is not revving very high. I have not been able to turn the fuel screw yet to do any tuning has right now there is only 1 inch of clearance so I either need to buy a flex jet to adjust it or the adjustable base to swing it out some.
You should be pretty Close I put together a DG Jet Kit before we started building my daughters but we ended up using the 95 Main that came in the Carburetor Stock. On the Pilot if I remember correctly we had to drop it a little, I'll ask Withrow when I talk to him and see if he remembers what size pilot jet we ended up running.
We just figured the 95 would be way to big and it was doing the same thing. WE just kept bumping the main up until it quit. Your elevation is probably different. Try restricting the air that enters the carb, maybe by placing a plastic bag around half of it and securing it with a cable tie, if this seems to help bump the main jet up. Porting the head makes a big difference.
#47
You should be pretty Close I put together a DG Jet Kit before we started building my daughters but we ended up using the 95 Main that came in the Carburetor Stock. On the Pilot if I remember correctly we had to drop it a little, I'll ask Withrow when I talk to him and see if he remembers what size pilot jet we ended up running.
We just figured the 95 would be way to big and it was doing the same thing. WE just kept bumping the main up until it quit. Your elevation is probably different. Try restricting the air that enters the carb, maybe by placing a plastic bag around half of it and securing it with a cable tie, if this seems to help bump the main jet up. Porting the head makes a big difference.
We just figured the 95 would be way to big and it was doing the same thing. WE just kept bumping the main up until it quit. Your elevation is probably different. Try restricting the air that enters the carb, maybe by placing a plastic bag around half of it and securing it with a cable tie, if this seems to help bump the main jet up. Porting the head makes a big difference.
I have brought the main down to 72.5 main and I think it is still rich. The reason I say so is that I took the fuel line off the carb to drain the bowl. I let it run at wot, and as the gas started to run out if finally reved up and ran like it should for about 4 or five seconds until the fuel ran out. I was told that if I go below a 70 main then the carb is too big. Whats your thoughts on this as you think it is rich/lean? The dealership I was able to swap jets out at does not have anything smaller than a 72.5 so I have to order from somewhere if I need to go smaller. They also did not have pilots so I used carb cleaners and slowly bored it out it now has no bog down low, and takes right off but I know I may have bored it out one size to many as when I rev it form 0-1/2 throttle I see some black smoke. Needle jet is set at it's leanest setting. Not sure the size of the pilot jet either as I bored it out and have nothing else to compare it to. So I know what the size is and drop down one size or two. But it does start right up and revs real nice to around 3/4 then almost sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter with out much for high revs. I know its not hitting a rev limiter because, stock it reved up more, and like I said when the fuel starts to run out, it took right off and reved up nicely.
#48
I have brought the main down to 72.5 main and I think it is still rich. The reason I say so is that I took the fuel line off the carb to drain the bowl. I let it run at wot, and as the gas started to run out if finally reved up and ran like it should for about 4 or five seconds until the fuel ran out. I was told that if I go below a 70 main then the carb is too big. Whats your thoughts on this as you think it is rich/lean? The dealership I was able to swap jets out at does not have anything smaller than a 72.5 so I have to order from somewhere if I need to go smaller. They also did not have pilots so I used carb cleaners and slowly bored it out it now has no bog down low, and takes right off but I know I may have bored it out one size to many as when I rev it form 0-1/2 throttle I see some black smoke. Needle jet is set at it's leanest setting. Not sure the size of the pilot jet either as I bored it out and have nothing else to compare it to. So I know what the size is and drop down one size or two. But it does start right up and revs real nice to around 3/4 then almost sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter with out much for high revs. I know its not hitting a rev limiter because, stock it reved up more, and like I said when the fuel starts to run out, it took right off and reved up nicely.
Give this guy a call when you get a free minute and talk to him about it. His name is Matt Withrow and he's one of my best friends. He owns and operates Withrow Powersport's, tell him your reading the The Chinese 110 Performance Mods thread on the ATV Connection Forum and Thack82 gave you his number.
- 1-(502)-803-0418
#49
I have brought the main down to 72.5 main and I think it is still rich. The reason I say so is that I took the fuel line off the carb to drain the bowl. I let it run at wot, and as the gas started to run out if finally reved up and ran like it should for about 4 or five seconds until the fuel ran out. I was told that if I go below a 70 main then the carb is too big. Whats your thoughts on this as you think it is rich/lean? The dealership I was able to swap jets out at does not have anything smaller than a 72.5 so I have to order from somewhere if I need to go smaller. They also did not have pilots so I used carb cleaners and slowly bored it out it now has no bog down low, and takes right off but I know I may have bored it out one size to many as when I rev it form 0-1/2 throttle I see some black smoke. Needle jet is set at it's leanest setting. Not sure the size of the pilot jet either as I bored it out and have nothing else to compare it to. So I know what the size is and drop down one size or two. But it does start right up and revs real nice to around 3/4 then almost sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter with out much for high revs. I know its not hitting a rev limiter because, stock it reved up more, and like I said when the fuel starts to run out, it took right off and reved up nicely.
By the way have you guy's seen these????????????
I can't believe a performance company is making Billet Cases for the Chinese Mini's. I've been wanting a set of Stock 102mm Spread Mattoon Billet Cases for my Banshee but I can't justify spending $2,200 on them. I wonder what this set for the Chinese 110cc Pit Quads Cost?
G-Craft updated their website with some wicked looking billet cases for the 50cc-125cc Pit Bikes/Quads!
This one can contain about 100 ml more oil for a better cooling: