QH200ST HI-BIRD
#21
#22
QH200ST HI-BIRD
XO,
The tappet noise is OK. If you got them set at .002 to .004 you will always hear a little ticking. It is no problem. For the clacking you guys are hearing before the valve adjustment, that is detonation. Should go away with the valve adjustment, but also you should use high octane gas. If you try High octane and it cures the clacking , don't bother resetting the tappets. If they still clack under load they are too tight. If all is set up with zero tolerence, It will be fine if it doesn't clatter under load. If it is only minor it is no big deal. These things are a lot more forgiving than you think. I have found that some of the carb problems come from the intake manifold bolts loosening after awhile. Be sure to keep them tightened up from time to time. Also found that the choke cables seem to come from the factory not tightened into the holding mount at the carb end. There is a little metal collar that should be be sitting into a clamp on the side of the carb. Helps if it is in the right spot. Also the air filter location is really easy to fill up with water and mud from crossing too much mudholes. Once it sucks up a big gulp you have to take the carb off and blow everthing out. I'm going to reroute mine to move the airbox opening from in front of the rear tire.
Have fun !!
The tappet noise is OK. If you got them set at .002 to .004 you will always hear a little ticking. It is no problem. For the clacking you guys are hearing before the valve adjustment, that is detonation. Should go away with the valve adjustment, but also you should use high octane gas. If you try High octane and it cures the clacking , don't bother resetting the tappets. If they still clack under load they are too tight. If all is set up with zero tolerence, It will be fine if it doesn't clatter under load. If it is only minor it is no big deal. These things are a lot more forgiving than you think. I have found that some of the carb problems come from the intake manifold bolts loosening after awhile. Be sure to keep them tightened up from time to time. Also found that the choke cables seem to come from the factory not tightened into the holding mount at the carb end. There is a little metal collar that should be be sitting into a clamp on the side of the carb. Helps if it is in the right spot. Also the air filter location is really easy to fill up with water and mud from crossing too much mudholes. Once it sucks up a big gulp you have to take the carb off and blow everthing out. I'm going to reroute mine to move the airbox opening from in front of the rear tire.
Have fun !!
#23
#24
QH200ST HI-BIRD
Thanks for the responses. Sorry could not post this weekend for some reason my wife wanted me to spend time with her on our anniversary LOL.
I will clean the carb and set the valves on the blue Hi-Bird and leave the red one as is for now. If it aint broke don't fix it mentality.
One thing I found if no one else has, the rear brake was locking up, so bad you could not get the ATV to even role. The adjuster keeps coming loose causing the rear brake to stay engaged all the time. The position of it makes it very difficult to get a wrench in there. Just an FYI if your rear brake hangs up look to see if the nuts on the adjuster have come loose. The nuts as well as the adjuster sleave are plastic.
I will clean the carb and set the valves on the blue Hi-Bird and leave the red one as is for now. If it aint broke don't fix it mentality.
One thing I found if no one else has, the rear brake was locking up, so bad you could not get the ATV to even role. The adjuster keeps coming loose causing the rear brake to stay engaged all the time. The position of it makes it very difficult to get a wrench in there. Just an FYI if your rear brake hangs up look to see if the nuts on the adjuster have come loose. The nuts as well as the adjuster sleave are plastic.
#26
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