Herman,
Don't be affraid to tackle the axle. Pull off the outboard nut cotter pin first. Then pull off the wheel and hub as a unit. Then the two big nuts to the right of the brake disc. One is a jam nut and both are loc tighted so just take a big cressent and whack it with a rubber mallet, or big hammer, Once you get the loc tight to loosen they will back off feeling tight but that is the residual loctight. By the way you need the scoot up off the ground for thall this. You can use the disc brake to hold the axle while tightening or loosening the nuts, but I just put my foot under the left tire to hold the axle. Once the big axle nuts are off the end of the shaft just tap the axle to the left and it will slide out of the center carrier. The brake and sprocket hub are slide ons with splines to hold them from turning. No difficulty to slide them off. I actually took off the two bolts hoding the brake caliper and swung it out of the way. It is easier to put the axle back in by sliding on the sprocket hub then tapping the axle through then sliding on the brake disc and it;s hub. There is a center spacer inside the carrier but it will recenter as you wiggler the axle to slide it back through. When the axle is out slide off the sprocket hub and simply remove the bolts, put the sprocket in a vise to hold it if you have one. Anyway just move the sprocket to the opposite side of the hub and replace the bolts going the opposite direction. It will look like you might have clearance problems with the bolt heads being on the opposite side but there is plenty of room. Use loctight on all the nuts and bolts as you replace them.
As far as the axle carabbing afterward you will find that if you put the extra nuts onto the adjusters you can align the axle almost perfectly with the front end. It might still be a little off center, but it can be aligned to fly staight down the road. Mine handles so much better now it is unreal.

If you have any more question feel fre to email me. But don't think you have to have any special knowledge to do this. Just take your time and use loctight to redo all bolts except the axle adjusters. Oh, by the way when adjusting the small 8mm nuts to move the axle forward or back, loose the the big 18mm bolts holding the axle carrier onto the swingarm so it can pivot freely.

 

Very informative write up Xavier! It was interesting to see and read this before my Jetmotos arrived!

outofline

 

Whiskers,

Thanks alot for the step by step instructions. You are really good at describing these things clearly. With that, I will do the sprocket fix this weekend. That should make a huge difference because I can hear the chain mashing and grinding right now.

Keep the info coming as you discover more. I think that half the fun of these things is fixing the small faults one by one. Luckily, the engine seems to be pretty good and you gotta love that reverse gear.

Thanks again

 

OK herman,
Let me know how it goes this weekend. I get the bigger kick myself out of tinkering on the things. I tell ya, so far I think these units have pretty good potential. I've got this one running like a top and pulling strong. Now it's handling well also. With a little bit of engineering they could have a really good quad in these. The only thing I could wish for since I bought it more for hunting than racing around is a better coverage set of fenders like a utility quad. But I'm already planning racks and that should give me some protection from mud slinging. I've been riding this one every evening when I finish my day in the shop. I've got new trails cut all over the place. it mows down green briars pretty good !!

Have fun !!

 

Hey Whiskers,

I just finished the sprocket switchover. It went per your instructions except with one little twist.

When I received the ATV, there was one hole in the cardboard container in the area of the right rear axle. It turns out that something pierced the container and hit and smooshed the thread on the end of the axle. I had to file what I could to fix the thread but the nut came off really hard and the thread on the shaft and nut is basicly stripped.

This really isn't a China bike issue, it is just a shipping mishap that could have happened to any bike. I did get the nut and a new cotter pin back on.

The good news is that the chain is now perfectly aligned. It is so much better that I can now barely hear it when I push it where it used to mash and try to skip.

Thanks again for the good instructions. It would have only taken about 20 minutes if it wasn't for the axle nut situation.

One question though. Is there a decent parts source out there for this bike - preferrably with a website. The Anam website is ubder construction.

 

herman,

Try calling John at Raceway. The sponsor of this site, for parts. From what others have said I think he would be the best source for parts. He is a Kazuma dealer also. He seems to understand that we all can't afford Jetmoto's.

Glad you got the sprocket worked out. You should have no problem with losing the chain now.

One thing on the axle nut. If you have enough thread left at the actual point where the nut was tightened to, you should be able to file or grind off the threads at the tip where it was smushed and just replace the nut itself. You should be able to find a local machinist to chase the remaining threads with the proper tap to clean up the axle to accept a new nut. I have done this type of repair many times with nothing more than a three corner file and elbow grease. At the very worst before replacing the axle, quite expensive, you could have the end turned down and rethreaded with a smaller size nut.

 

Hey, Whiskers -


You mentioned that you bent the brake pedal so it laid in closer to the case. to bend that puppy, did you apply heat or just caress it lovingly with a ball peen hammer?


Also - I sent ya some email

 

The brake peddal will respond to the loving whack !! of a big hammer. That thing is tough ! But the easiest way is to put it in a shop press and caress it . There is a spot you can easily see in the arm to add some bend inward and then a spot in front of the peg to bend it upward off the floor board a bit. Sure is nice not having it always under your toe.

I'm adding some shots to my page to show you my test ground!

 

I noticed in your assembly section you state "I could absolutley not tighten the crown nuts on the tie rod ends enough so that the cotter holes would show. I never did get the cotter pins installed. I don't know what else to do, I'll just have to check them frequently"

I ran into the same problem. The solution for me was to remove the lock washer. It is not need. That gives you enuff clearance to get the nut down far enuff to install the cotter pins.

 

I did the exact same thing with my Hi-Bird I left the lock washer off the tie-rod ends. I don't understand why you would need a lock washer AND a cotter pin