Perfect order is placed.

When I do the clutch next you mentioned taking out 8 of the 12. I see they are in sets of 3 so how do you determine which ***** to remove?

 

when you open the clutch basket (remove the large circlip from the front of the clutch basket and pull out the clutch plates) you will see that the ***** sit in individual grooves. remove them in sets of 4. one from each group of 3 so they stay evenly balanced in the clutch basket.

 

Hi,

I have read alot of threads about the 50 and they have been helpful. I have a raptor 50 for my 6 year old and a raptor 80 for my 11 year old. I got the 80 first and it is an awesome machine. Needless to say, I was disappointed when I brought the 50 home but I kept it because he was too small for an 80. I want to start with the throttle lever and the carb mod. I just bought a new carb for the 80 and I was thinking about using the old 80 carb parts to put into the 50 carb. (slider, jets,and maybe nozzle??). I bought an 80 throttle lever so my question is will it work just to put the 80 carb parts in the 50. I am looking for some low end power so the 50 will climb hills and such and maybe spin the tires on takeoff when needed instead of just bogging down. Please give any advice or pointers that you have.

Thanks,
Chris

1984 Honda 200 Big Red (for me) still runs great
2004 Raptor 80 (son)
2006 Raptor 50 (son)

 

the 80 carb will work on the 50 but you must change the throttle arm to the one that the 80 uses. the 50 comes with a 72 main jet and the 80 with a 76. if you want you can order a #80 main jet (1994 yamaha badger 80) for the 80 carb. a higher rev cdi will help acceleration a little and add some top end. removing 8 of the 12 steel clutch ***** from the clutch basket will allow the engine to rev higher before the clutch engages. also a good after market exhaust (LRD, white bros., etc ..) will add some power at the low to mid range. I would recommend a set of wheel spacers at least for the 50 and 80 if you plan on some of the peformance mods. I added spacers, rims and tires to our 80 and spacers to our 50 and both (especially the 80) handle much better.

I just gave away my 1984 big red to my brother in-law (no room for it with the new ones). it is still running pretty good also.

 

When you say "throttle arm", do you mean the throlltel lever on the handlebars or something else?

 

throttle arm is the part that attaches between the throttle cable and the throttle lever. (http://www.worldofcycles.com, select yamaha, ATV, year, and model, then go to STEERING HANDLE CABLE, Item number 14). the throttle arm on the 50 has a protrusion that only allows the throttle to go half way open. you can grind off the protrusion or buy the 80 one and replace

 

Thanks,
I ordered the parts today. Thanks for the info. One last question. I also ordered the clutch housing gasket and I want to do the clutch mods. How hard is it to get to the clutch *****. Are there alot of parts that have to come out before you get to them or is it one of the first pieces to come out. Also are that any special removal tools that I need to have beforehand. Should I take 8 of the 12 out or fewer for low end power so it can climb hills and such?

Thanks,
Chris

1984 Honda 200 Big Red (for me) still runs great
2004 Raptor 80 (son)
2006 Raptor 50 (son)

 

the clutch cover and philips heads screws that hold it on are the worst part of the operation. if you own an impact wrench/scre driver it will help in getting the screws of. I replaced then with hex head bolts when I reassembled instead of the philips heads (your preference). the cover may be a little tricky to remove. there are some flat spots on it around the edges that where designed to help remove it (you want to avoid using a screw driver on the gasket surface to pry apart). be some what gentle about removing the cover (don't rock it back and forth too excessively) in that there are two oil seals in the clutch cover (one on the end of the clutch basket and one on the starter gear) that can be torn or the circular springs that load them popped out if you are too rough with removing the clutch cover. at this point having the machine on its side would be the best way to proceed. you need to remove the large circular clip (circlip) at the top of the clutch basket. I used a flat screw driver. note which side is up on the circlip so that it can be reinstalled the same way. there are alot of clutch parts in the parts diagram but if you grab the clutch plate furthest down in the clutch basket and slowly slide it up you will remove the whole clutch plate assembly at once. carefully place it off to the side and remember how you removed it. now if you didn't tip the machine onto its side the clutch ***** may have all fallen out with that step. if the machine is on its side then you should be able to see the clutch boss and the ***** around the edges of it. twist out (remove) the outer ring of the clutch boss and start removing the *****. reassemble.

with the slider, throttle arm and CDI mods you are going to notice a lot better performance. so you may want to try these before doing the clutch mod to see if they are good enough.

good luck

 

OK, question here. Doing the slide mod alone will it increase the speed any. After both the slide mod and high rev limiter are installed, what is final or abouts speed of the R50?

Are there any means to get and extra clearance out of the R50?

Thanks for the advice..

Sitka

 

The slide mod will not increase top speed but will allow better take-off power (the RPM of the engine will be higher when the clutch engages). after the slide mod and the rev limiter the top end will increase. I have measured the top speed of our R50 at 22 mph (use to be about 11 mph). since then I have removed the 16" tires and put on 18" tires. this should increase the top end a mile an hour or two (but I have not officially measured it). there are no lift kits available for the mini raptors but you can get larger rims and tires. you could put a 20" rear tire and a 21" front tire. this would give 4" more of rear ground clearance from stock. I would recommend a holeshot style tire since it would help make the machine more stable. also with going to a larger tire it brings the center of gravity of the machine up, so wheel spacers should probably be added.

I have read alot of complaints about the "off the dealer floor" power of the R50. when you pay $2000+ dollars and you have to spend more $ just to get it to run like its capable of. since we have added the performance mods, both our R50 and R80 run great and are much more enjoyed by my kids. Yamaha needs to upgrade the suspension (especially front) and add lights (especially a rear stop light).