OK, it's been a while since I've been on here and I need to refresh some of my information. Last time I was here I was seeking clutch help because this thing wouldn't get out of it's own way. The clutch wasn't the problem, it was the tires. I had Sand Geckos on there and they were so heavy it coulnd't move, changed to gliders and it worked perfet...for a couple rides.

The fan sheared off all the fins somehow and they melted on the head, which in turn melted the piston and destroyed the whole thing. I've got the cases split in the frame and I've pulled the crank out to clean out any metal and inspect all the bearings and replace the seals. I've had the piston bored over +2, cylinder decked 0.020" and all new gaskets. While I'm here, I want to mod the clutch, aside from what I told you I've modified I have a K&N filter and FMF pipe. Should I mod the reed cage at all or leave it alone?

From what I understand, I need to grind down the clutch shoes to about 180grams, replace the clutch spring with another new stock one while I've got it apart, lightly sand the clutch shoes and inner hub to remove the glazing, check the rear clutch bearing, replace the rollers if needed and grease them with high temp grease, and replace the belt belt if needed.

The rollers don't have any flat spots and look OK, but the plate that rides against the rollers, small star shaped one, has severe grooves from the rollers. Is that normal or should it be replaced? Should I reinstall all the rollers or just 4 of them?

All surfaces that ride agains the belt look evenly worn, belt looks like it's in good shape; is there anything I should look for other than cracking on the belt?

Lastly, what are you guys using to hold the rear clutch in place to remove the nut? Suzuki wants some ungodly amount for their tool, any suggestions on where to get one? Also on the front where the rollers are, the outer plate that looks like a sprocket has one of the teeth broken off, do those serve a purpose or should I just replace it anyway? I don't see any reason to replace it but I can't tell if they are there for a reason.
Thanks in advance guys
JD

 

Yes, you need to replace the roller plate. It'll ruin the rollers.
4 or 6 rollers is a personal thing. Was it taking off and running out fine with the 4?
You need a impact wrench to get the clutchs off. Hold the rear clutch with your hand.
The tooth broke off is for the pull start. If you don't have or want a pull start, it'll be fine.
Belts last forever and seem to run better the more they are wore.

 

LT80...you're the man thanks!

Should I do anything with the reed cage?

I have all 6 rollers in there now, but I read a few places to put only four back in there. What are their purpose and why would you want 6 as opposed to 4?

180 grams is correct for the clutch shoes? Also replacing the stock spring in the clutch with a stock one right?

I'd lik this thing to run for a while when I'm done, I've worked on it more than actually had it running. My daughter was heartbroken when it blew up and thought she was in trouble...LOL! She thought she ruined it! We've been on two trips without her bike and she sulked both times; so I've ot to get off my *** and fix it.

Just out of curiosity, what pipes are the best ones? This came with a FMF, but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Thanks again
JD

 

Nah, leave the reed cage alone. Untill the motor turns higher rpm's more flow isn't needed.
The rollers:: Some like the results, some don't. It'll help with take-off and slightly reduce top speed.
Yes, 180 grams on the rear clutch shoes. No need to get another spring.
My choice on pipes is the Trinity pipe.
Your FMF will be fine. We'll work with it.
I think you'll want to go to 428 sprockets (13f- 26r) and #40 chain.
It's a good set up with the clutch mods your doing. ie: 4 rollers/180 grams/gearing/pipe..