2010 Kymco Mongoose 90 speed mods
#1
#3
Thanks for the quick reply!
I'm not exactly sure how fast it is running, but it seems to be around 15MPH. This was an upgrade quad for my 9 year old son, but his old 50cc 2cycle is faster. Not much of an upgrade for him. The throttle stop is adjusted all the way out. It has plenty of low end torque, but the top speed is too slow.
I'm not exactly sure how fast it is running, but it seems to be around 15MPH. This was an upgrade quad for my 9 year old son, but his old 50cc 2cycle is faster. Not much of an upgrade for him. The throttle stop is adjusted all the way out. It has plenty of low end torque, but the top speed is too slow.
#4
Penns,
I might be able to help you, but I need you to send me a few pics. Reason being, I not sure if Kymco changed anything from prior year models that Im somewhat familiar with. Could you please take a few pics of the CDI box with the wiring attached and send my a pic of that CVT bushing. Im pretty sure its the same wiring as a Kawasaki KFX90,but I want to be positive so I dont run you down a dead path.
Heres my email: airmobile101@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Tim
I might be able to help you, but I need you to send me a few pics. Reason being, I not sure if Kymco changed anything from prior year models that Im somewhat familiar with. Could you please take a few pics of the CDI box with the wiring attached and send my a pic of that CVT bushing. Im pretty sure its the same wiring as a Kawasaki KFX90,but I want to be positive so I dont run you down a dead path.
Heres my email: airmobile101@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Tim
#5
AIRMOBILE101
I installed the bushing this weekend and there was no change. It turns out that the bushing the dealer sold me for $20 is the exact same bushing that was in the primary clutch from the factory. I also cut every single wire going to the CDI one at a time and then soldered them back together because the quad wouldn't start with any single wire cut. If you have another trick that would be great! I will get some pictures posted later this week.
Thanks!
I installed the bushing this weekend and there was no change. It turns out that the bushing the dealer sold me for $20 is the exact same bushing that was in the primary clutch from the factory. I also cut every single wire going to the CDI one at a time and then soldered them back together because the quad wouldn't start with any single wire cut. If you have another trick that would be great! I will get some pictures posted later this week.
Thanks!
#6
Two things to do and check...
- First, remove the airbox boot from the mouth of the carburetor and ensure that the throttle slide is opening 100% all the way to the top when you squeeze the throttle all the way. This will eliminate of the carb is not adjusted for going wide open. Sometimes certain brands have spacers on top of the slide to prevent it from going all the way up, too.
- Second, with the CVT clutch cover removed, put the back of the ATV up on a stand / crate so the wheels will spin off the ground. Start the machine and watch the CVT and belt as you rev it up all the way. If the belt doesn't go all the way to the top of the front clutch then your not getting full shiftout. Some mini's had spacers inside the front variator CVT clutch (primary) that prevented it from closing all the way up and gaining full ratio / speed...
Can you post a picture of that "bushing" your dealer gave you for the primary clutch? It might not be a bushing, but rather this spacer I just talked about...
- First, remove the airbox boot from the mouth of the carburetor and ensure that the throttle slide is opening 100% all the way to the top when you squeeze the throttle all the way. This will eliminate of the carb is not adjusted for going wide open. Sometimes certain brands have spacers on top of the slide to prevent it from going all the way up, too.
- Second, with the CVT clutch cover removed, put the back of the ATV up on a stand / crate so the wheels will spin off the ground. Start the machine and watch the CVT and belt as you rev it up all the way. If the belt doesn't go all the way to the top of the front clutch then your not getting full shiftout. Some mini's had spacers inside the front variator CVT clutch (primary) that prevented it from closing all the way up and gaining full ratio / speed...
Can you post a picture of that "bushing" your dealer gave you for the primary clutch? It might not be a bushing, but rather this spacer I just talked about...
#7
I have an 07 Kymco 90 and 50 and have the same issue of wanting to get more speed from them. I'm going to check for the spacer. Currently getting about 13 from the 50 and 15 tops for the 90.
Anyone discovered anything w/ the CDI...I've read some threads about a green wife needing cut but that must be pre07 b/c these do not have the light green wife mentioned in other forums.
Thanks!
Anyone discovered anything w/ the CDI...I've read some threads about a green wife needing cut but that must be pre07 b/c these do not have the light green wife mentioned in other forums.
Thanks!
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#8
Sorry it’s been so long since I have been on here, but I wanted to post an update to help anybody else with similar issues.
The speed restriction was in the CVT transmition! There is a small spacer that can be remover to allow the belt to ride at the top of the primary clutch, just like mbarryracing mentioned. If anyone needs more information please don’t hesitate to ask, I would like to help and return the favor. Thanks guys for all the previous help.
The speed restriction was in the CVT transmition! There is a small spacer that can be remover to allow the belt to ride at the top of the primary clutch, just like mbarryracing mentioned. If anyone needs more information please don’t hesitate to ask, I would like to help and return the favor. Thanks guys for all the previous help.
#9
Kymco Mongoose 50cc 4T.....spacer
Hello all!...Been a busy last couple weeks for me and my family with our new found hobbie....What started with a 1991 LT80 for my son quickly turned to a 1986 LT230S (for us)and a 2008 50cc Kymco Mongoose for our 5 year old daughter...Ive been trying to find time to do a few inexpensive mods to my sons stock LT80...Gearing...Chain...Rollers etc.....However it has taken a quick backseat to our problem with the Kymco...(not enough speed)..I made the mistake of letting the little one get her feet wet with the 80 and she just aint feeling that little mongoose....Ive read and read and cant seem to find the answers im looking for....I have the rear clutch assembly off now but have not yet cracked the nut on top with the impact.....I just want to be sure i am doing the right thing once i get in there...Do i want to remove the spacer....remove the lip...or both?....any help would be greatly appreciated...were riding sunday and i hope to be able to see her have a little more fun on the 50.....
#10