Ok, 4 questions to be answered first

1, Black/red: when it sparks: .378, when no spark: .379

2,Blu/Yel: when it sparks: .255, when no spark: .146

3, White: .001 all times

4, Yellow: .001 all times


Next questions:,, i only did these when not sparking.

Things to measure:

1) AC ignition power pin: Measure at the CDI while cranking the engine while the CDI is disconnected, all kill switch in the "run" position. Of course to determine if you have spark you will have to have the CDI in see, then take it out quickly and do the test. You should see 45-80 volts AC at cranking speeds. 65 volts

2) Timing Trigger at the CDI: Meaasure while cranking the engine. CDI can be plugged in or not. It doesn't matter. .1 volts

3) Ignition coil output: CDI must be pluggged in. Does this voltage (or the two above voltages) change between spark and no-spark conditions?

Well this is what i check for spark or not,, the two wires that go to the coil,, my volt meter is hooked to that,, and when i get spark i get 45 volts,, when no spark,,, nothing.,, nothing as in when i plug the volt meter inits at .6,, then crank and no change of that number.,,, just when i let off the elec. start button,, it will jump to 15 volts or so,, for 1/4 sec., then .6...

 

On test #2, according to your measurements, the resistance of the trigger winding changes from 255 ohms to 146 ohms. This resistance should never change. Please verify these measurements again. If you consistently get changing resistances, and these changes correlate with the spark/no spark symptoms then your stator is bad. But I must say that this would be an unusual failure mode. There is nothing in the trigger winding that would heat up in 20 seconds. I can't think of any reason why the trigger winding would fail in this way.

The 65 volts AC on the ignition power wire sounds good.

0.1 volts trigger still sounds a bit on the low side, but depending on your meter is isn't out of the range of possibilities. It is a gray area reading.

Your observation that you get spark when you see 45 volt spikes at the coil, and no voltage with no spark indicates that the problem is before the coil. This points to the CDI, stator trigger winding, and wiring.

The common denominator so far is the trigger winding in the stator. But before diagnosing the stator as being bad I would make sure that you can repeat these tests again and get the same results. Measurement error leads to wrong conclusions, and much frustration. Double checking (and backtracking if necessary) is always worthwhile.

 

I tried it again thismorning,, assuming i was gonna have my 20 sec. of spark.. So i went right for the ohm test on the blu/yell vs. green..
Trigger vs. ground.. W/ ohm meter at the bigtail,,,
Got the .146 right off the bat.,,, i then connected the pigtail, connected the battery, and volt meter to wires that go to coil,(to see if i get 45 volts representing spark)
.002 at hook up,, and 0.000 when cranking ... No spark volts.

 

I tried today to get a spark and no chance,, i then went back to check the ohms again on the CDI pig tail,, i made a mistake and had it on Volts, Remember that,, I then switched to ohms and same 145, and 383..
I then decided to plug , unplug anything i could find.. I been doing this daily anyhow..
So then i decided to check for voltage at the two wires going to Coil,,, 45 volts !!! Wooo,,, so i decided to eithur it up and try,,,.. Fired up !! YES it fired up,, i let it run for 10 min. got warmed up and sounded great... I then wanted to turn it off and turned the ignition key off, machine kept running,,, i was happy, but still ran. So while running w/ ignition key on,, ligts went on off,,, but no kill.. So i put my hand over carb and killed it.
I then tuned key off,, tried start button, no start. So turned key on and it cranked and fired back up,, just no turning it off by key, or other kill switch.

Any clue ?

Just fired it up again,, no problem starting it ,,, just won't shut off.

 

The engine is killed by grounding the kill switch pin at the CDI. The kill switch wire from the cdi connector goes to several different kill switches all wired in parallel such that any kill switch, when turned on, will short the kill line to gound. Because none of the kill switches work (your ignition switch when turned to the "off" position is one of the kill switches), then that suggests that your problem is near or at the CDI connector.

The trigger winding resistance is still changing from 145 and 383. I cannot think of any good reason for this. What is sticking out is the fact the 145 ohms is sounding correct, and the 383 is the same reading you get for the ignition power winding. Coincidence? I think that would be a pretty remarkable coincidence, but I can't think of any failure mode that would produce this.

 

Lynn, the trigger resistance did read one time, 245,, then 145.. I believe there was dirt on pin, creating that 245,, it's been 145 past few days consistant. My last post was the numbers of: 145, 383, .001, .001.... Those are the correct ohm readings we did earlier in the previous post. I was just doing the readings again to verify.

 

When i get home from work today,, i will inspect the kill switch pin on CDI pigtail. suspect that my machine is acting like when you pull that pin out of the pigtail, correct ?
Can I assume that the problem is that killswitch pin wire connection,, or where it goes into the harness.

 

I would look carefully at the CDI pin and wire connection into the pin. If everything looks OK there then you have an open connection somewhere in the harness. If you can't find it just run a new wire from the CDI kill switch wire to another convenient kill switch wire such as the one on the ignition switch (usually black/white) to bypass the open wire (wherever it may be). Auto parts stores (or even Walmart) sells convenient mash on splicing connectors. You lay the existing wire alongside a new wire in the grooves of the splicer, fold over the top, and squish top and bottom together with pliers. Vee shaped knife edges inside the splicer slice through the insulation and bite into the wires making connection. No cutting, soldering, or taping required.

 

LynnEdwards i have to say thankyou for helping me thru this problem. I am happy to say i checked the kill pin in the pigtail and it looked fine,,, i bent it a little for more forced contact and off switch and key switch now work.

This was a long road and i thank you LynnEdwards !!!

 

Cool.

Let's hope it stays running. But if it doesn't come back and we'll try again.