Some of the confusion is that the 5 wires coming from the CDI are not the same colors that they plug into with one exception, the red on black is plugged into red on black. The # 2 wire you were referring to is white on blue. My meter reads 119.6 v from my outlet. CDI disconnected red on black reads 75 v. CDI plugged in blue on white reads 00.0v. I hope tthis tells you something. Thank You

 

To review:

You have AC power to the CDI. You have a trigger to the CDI. You have a good ground to the CDI, and the kill switch line is grounded (which for etons is the "run" condition). And you have zero volts at the CDI output going to the coil. It sounds like a bad CDI.

I would go back and double check all the readings you've done so far. If they are still the same then all the data is pointing at the CDI being bad.

 

Ok, I will. Thank You very much

 

Its been awhile since I have talked with you. I did buy a new CDI. My readings or as such: white on black-2.8, red on black-no reading, white on blue-no reading, blue on white-01.0, black-00.6, meter set at 200. would this mean my ignition coil is bad or the on and off switch is bad or neither. Please help
Thanks,Jim

 

Can I use any CDI? Or is it specific to the e-ton. I have a feeling mine is bad but don't want to spend the money on one just yet, but I have an old 200 3-wheeler that runs and wonder if I could try it.

 

Jim, I'm really behind in posting. I will catch up, but it may take a few days. I need to go back and review previous posts to review where we've been up till now...

In the mean time I'm puzzled by the new info. You measured 2.8 on the white on black... 2.8 what? Amps, Volts, Ohms? This is really important info. Where did you set the meter switch setting at?

There is no such thing as "no reading" on a meter. Huh? Was your meter turned off? Your meter display must have displayed something, right? What was that display? This is important. I have no idea what you mean. And what were you measuring? Ohms, Volts, Amps? Where was the meter switch setting at?

For some of the measurements you said your meter was set at 200. 200 what? Volts? Ohms? I think your getting my drift....

 

Eton CDI's are different from the inexpensive generic chinese CDI's.

Why do you think your CDI is bad?

 

Here are my ohm readings. Also my starter won't work with the switch.

W/ red stripe 103.6
BK/ Red stripe 710
BK/ White stripe 27
W/ Blue stripe .7
Black .4

Brent

 

first off, you can't test a CDI with a meter. And you can't simply use just any CDI. The Eton 90cc comes from the same taiwan factory as Polaris, Dinli, and I believe Arctic Cat, so theortically you should be looking for one of these brand CDIs if you can't locate an OEM Eton.

Off of the CDI should be a black wire with a white stripe. pull back the plastic covering the connections, but leave the connection in tact. Now ground this connection to the frame or to the negative terminal of the battery and see if you have spark. This bypasses the upper controls. If you have spark, you have a problem with either the kill switch or the main key switch.

If still no spark, check your stator and then your coil.

I just went through this on an 04 predator 90cc.. replaced the stator and the CDI, only to find the key switch had a bad contact. Shot he connectors and inside the switch with some electrical cleaner and now I have spark.

 

What model quad is this? Is it a 90cc Thunder?

The starter motor has a safety interlock that wont let the quad starter motor turn unless the brake is applied. Turn on the ignition and look at the brake light. It must be lit up or the starter won't engage.

The black with white stripe is the kill switch wire which on etons must be grounded. Yours is not (you read 27 ohms). Grounding this wire (also suggested by stilinsm) would be the second step (first is getting the starter to turn).

On the timing/trigger wire you read 103.6 ohms. This is quite different than FireFighter66255's reading of 480 ohms. I don't know which of these are correct since I don't have an eton to comapre to. Maybe they are both correct if you have different models.

The best way to test the stator is to measure the AC voltage output while the engine is cranking from the ignition power winding (Black with red stripe) and the trigger winding (blue with white stripe in the wiring harness). The ignition power wire should be really high like 80 volts AC at cranking speeds. The trigger voltage will be less than a volt at cranking speeds, but it should not be zero.

So is your problem "no spark", or is it just that the starter doesn't turn with the start button?