E-Ton troubles
#1
In 2004 I purchased a new Viper 90. Under warranty a new starter was replaced but since then I have continued to have the same problem in that when the unit is shut off my battery drains. Even if I hook up a trickle charger something drains my battery AND kills it. I am (no kidding) on my 8th battery since 2004. I have replaced the rectifier/regulator and am getting ready to replace the relay. When I do get it cranked with a new battery it will still drain the battery even when I am using it over a period of days. My only solution has been to un-hook the battery from the unit and trickle charge when I'm not using it. That is a royal pain. The only electrical option I have added is the light kit. Does anyone have ideas, experienced similar problems?
#2
I think this should be really simple to isolate:
Get a meter, set it to measure current (amps) on the 10 amp scale. Usually this means you have to move the red probe to a special 10 amp current measuring jack.
Remove your main fuse near the battery, and insert your meter across the fuse terminals. Turn on the ignition and turn on the lights. Now all current that flows out of the battery goes through the meter . You should see substantial current flow (and the lights should light up). By measuring substantial current (several amps) you are measuring the entire testing system to see if it is set up right and will measure current correctly.
Now shut off the lights and shut off the ignition. If something external is draining your battery you will not only see it, but you can use the measurement to calculate just how fast your battery is going to go dead.
So what are your current measurements?:
1) With the ignition on, and the lights on?
2) With the ignition off and the lights off?
Please give exact numbers as best you can, not vague info like "it measured good", etc. If you don't know then do your best with as much info as possible.
Let's say you do measure drain current on the battery with the ignition off. Start unplugging stuff until the drain current stops. When you unplug the item that stops the battery drain, then this points the way towards the problem.
Lets say you don't measure a drain. That's a whole new direction.
Let's start here, and then go this way or that (or maybe circle a bit while we get your current meter working). Divide and conquer. One step at a time...
Get a meter, set it to measure current (amps) on the 10 amp scale. Usually this means you have to move the red probe to a special 10 amp current measuring jack.
Remove your main fuse near the battery, and insert your meter across the fuse terminals. Turn on the ignition and turn on the lights. Now all current that flows out of the battery goes through the meter . You should see substantial current flow (and the lights should light up). By measuring substantial current (several amps) you are measuring the entire testing system to see if it is set up right and will measure current correctly.
Now shut off the lights and shut off the ignition. If something external is draining your battery you will not only see it, but you can use the measurement to calculate just how fast your battery is going to go dead.
So what are your current measurements?:
1) With the ignition on, and the lights on?
2) With the ignition off and the lights off?
Please give exact numbers as best you can, not vague info like "it measured good", etc. If you don't know then do your best with as much info as possible.
Let's say you do measure drain current on the battery with the ignition off. Start unplugging stuff until the drain current stops. When you unplug the item that stops the battery drain, then this points the way towards the problem.
Lets say you don't measure a drain. That's a whole new direction.
Let's start here, and then go this way or that (or maybe circle a bit while we get your current meter working). Divide and conquer. One step at a time...
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mrtidy
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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Feb 3, 2016 05:00 PM
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