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Lt80 Clutch issues

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  #11  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:02 AM
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Ok, I took good look at stator and flywheel, all looked great actually. Very clean as was all that I've taken apart. This machine has only been ridden in a small field all of its life till us. I put back together, I got bored and lightened shoes again only to 175g. Cause as it sits there idling, all u have to do is breathe on throttle and it moves it doesn't rev I'd say 50-75rpms higher than idle and it moves. It should stall a few thousand I'd think. But 175g seems a little better, now you can at least hear the engine change rpms before it moves. I'm not goin lighter I know what happens there. So it runs out great, still 90psi on comp. I'll keep you all posted as I change stuff, Thanks again.
 
  #12  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LT80
I might see if there is rust/yuck on the stator. Sometimes they need to be sanded to clean them up
.
Don't pay 95wolv no nevermind on the rear clutch. While I was stealing parts from his ride, I added a shock absorber washer off a 1979 Ford LTD to his rear clutch to confuse him.

Altho a new piston is a great idea, I'm not convinced that either the carb or electrical can be ruled out.
I should have known you were messing around with my quad......the chewing gum and baling wire should have been a dead giveaway..........LOL.
 
  #13  
Old 04-13-2013, 11:03 PM
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Ok, here we go again. So to reiterate all that was done before, I've lightened clutch shoes to 175g, 6 rollers in front, new boysen reeds, uni air filter, rear clutch spring looks good, front variator looks good, removed flywheel sanded little on stator and pick up and flywheel, has 90 main jet in cleaned carb, and 88 psi comp hot wide open throttle, and as it sits there idling, as soon as you touch the throttle it moves bogs a little if you stab it, no stall or real power.
So now new piston, bore just first oversize, pro-x piston. I raised exhaust port 1.5mm or .060 inch, cause I've read from Lt80 himself that you can raise .120 so I did half, and sharpened transfer port openings or knife edged them, and milled head .030, I didn't do nothing major just wanted help it out a little, I know it's way different than my blaster. But it seems to run better but no stall on take off, still on break in so being easy on it, seems rev ok, not like I wanted but I know I was mild on it all. Just wanting some ideas on getting it to rev up then go, so it's in the power when it goes.

Man my hunt and peck fingers are tired.
Thanks again for all info.
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:36 AM
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Try removing 2 rollers and see how it goes.
Little to no break-in needed. Run it.
Sounds like you did a good job.
 
  #15  
Old 04-19-2013, 07:14 PM
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Well I've removed 2 rollers in front, nothing, so I removed 3 and left 3 evenly spaced. It still doesn't rev up before moving, but now doesn't seem to grab belt as hard. So I'm gonna at least go back to 4 rollers it seemed to grab better, but what I'm shooting for is a rev then grab hard and go! My boy weighs 55lbs, wet and it should just take off like bullet or wheelie as it goes. It starts to go, kinda bogs a little then you can hear and see the power band start to really pull. But it's moving already and just feels sluggish.
It engages real smoothly, I and he would like it more instant, or snappier engagement. I might be expecting or wanting too much, as the very mild porting, might need (Moore) i guess. Rear shoes 175g thinking of lightening them a little, but really doesn't seem to,rev much higher, as I'd liked, so was thinking of springs on shoes as these are pretty loose fitting, maybe that's the problem??? I'm kinda lost as to get this thing to scream I'd say, maybe kinda fat on top end, as it just seems flat, to me. Hopefully you guys can help.
Thanks.
 
  #16  
Old 04-19-2013, 09:48 PM
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It's not the rear clutch.
Plugged pipe, bad carb, electric problem. That's what I'm thinking.
I had a machine here that I built (stock), it ran good and I thought it was "almost" perfect. I tried another carb and it made a giant difference.
I'd check the pipe first.
 
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:25 PM
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So I guess when I heated pipe not enough, I'll fire up grill and let her cook, then blow out. I cleaned flywheel, stator and pickup they looked great but did anyway. Carb is real clean, I've even poked thru jets to make sure, and it's gettin full throttle. Doesn't miss or anything, should I turn timing up a little, I've read you can maybe a 1/32 or close. I'm gonna try dropping needle if I can, but carb was perfectly clean before and after I changed jets. So I'm at a loss here.
Thanks
 
  #18  
Old 04-20-2013, 01:34 PM
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It won't hurt to try the pipe again. It's prolly fine tho. I forgot you did that.
The problem with the carbs is those lil holes get crap in them and you sometines can't get it out. I'm sure it's spotless looking at it.
Another carb problem could be it flooding out and leaking into the motor badly, thus the feeling of it being jetted fat.
And while we're at it (carb) did you look thru the main jet after it was installed? For some reason (crappy gas I think) there has been a problem with the o-rings (that are under the main jet) swell up and restrict flow once the jet was installed and squeezed it.

You can try the timing. At the 9o'clock position (remove the bolt for a better view) there is a line on the case and a line on the stator. It'll look like "--". Turn the stator clockwise the width of the line on the stator. That should do it. You can try it farther, you won't hurt anything. Might take right off.
I realize you just did the top end, but I'd like to know what compression you have. Sorry if I asked that already.
 
  #19  
Old 04-20-2013, 01:52 PM
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Well I'll bake pipe again just 'cause. When I replaced jet I just threw out oring I read you could without problems. I've got drill bits small enough to drill the smallest jets I've ever seen, I've got the smallest that's smaller than any jet and I use it to make sure all my carb airways and jets are clear of any debris. I don't drill just lightly poke it thru couple times then use comp air. I'll sure try the timing it could possibly help, I just want it to rev before launching. Clutch just seems to engage Waaay before it should, virtually no stall so it bogs then after 10-15 feet power takes off. It'll spin tires in gravel with my 55lb boy on it. But it should do it at take off I'd think. And possibly go faster, it tops out same as before new piston, 23-25 mph with my boy. I've seen others that literally pull the front tires without a big guy using his weight. Just launches, now with my mild porting I'm probably asking too much, but if I could get it to stall higher rpms then it might, but mine grabs softly right off idle. We will get this figured out. I'll get comp reading tonight sometime and post it for you.
Thanks a lot LT80
 
  #20  
Old 04-20-2013, 05:28 PM
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Stock jetting,,right? (20/92.5)
Tell me how much you::
Raised the exhaust port
Raised the transfers
Shaved/modified the head
 


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