i can definitely vouch for jack's work!!!!!! only other person to ever touch my engines besides me. sometimes you have to know who would be best to do the job and that person wasnt me LMAO

 

Pulled motor, seal on flywheel side looked ok but movement in bearing may have created leak. Bearing was stuck on crank same side which makes me think they didn't replace that bearing,seal only, other bearing tight no play but took out anyway. Case was sealed with rtv not proper sealant Honda or yamabond, could have been my problem the whole time, but needed to replace bad bearing. Taking crank to get bearing removed.

 

I'll make a guess here.

Agreed, someone was into that motor that shouldn't have been.
I explain and explain how touchy these cranks are to get back in straight. I feel they installed the crank and it was way out of alignment. Prolly used the case bolts to crank the case 1/2"s back together thus bending the crank.

The bearings usually always stick on the crank. Maybe the one that slid off wasn't correct. They sure can be a sob to get off.
Make sure the shop (or you) have the crank straight. .0004 wobble max.
I use Koyo bearings @ about 10 bucks each. Suzuki bearings are like $25.
I also use Suzuki seals. Moose and all the wannabe's seals are not the same.

LTg-dad, if you've not done a LT80 motor before, I'll gladly tell you how to get it together straight.
Email me for a short story on it. LOL

 

Hope your sitting could take a while, took motor out took crank out had it checked for trueness as Lt80 suggested. It checked out ok. Bearings were good on one side play on the other thought that might have created a slight seal leak. Since new bottom end was going in figured I would do new top end, had 108psi on top end on the bike but as stated earlier it did have some gouges in wall and piston and they appeared to be below the rings at bottom dead center. So after bottom end assembly, I decided to put the old top end back on the bike first to see if the new seals and proper case sealant solved my lack of fuel problem from idle to wot. To kill the carb possibility took it off and cleaned and checked again. Started ok on choke, took choke off bike started starving for fuel hit the throttle almost died pulled choke back up let run to warm up took choke off again same result slowly dies at idle and falls on its face with any throttle without choke. Performed compression check again, 107 psi. Irritated and worried if new top end was going to solve
problem took top end off and installed new top end. During swap noticed base gasket appeared wet all the way out, changed gasket installed new top end adjusted torque from 120" pounds to 148" pounds. Started bike on choke let run for about 20 sec pushed choke down bike stayed running gave it a little gas bike revved but would hold a little long before going back to idle hit gas lightly same thing. My buddy whose house I was working on bike at had a larger pilot jet 30, stock 20, put it in bike would idle fine hit throttle would rev and drop back down to idle. Let it run at 1800 rpm for some more break-in time checked plug looked a little wet and black knew it was too rich went to local shop picked up 25 pilot installed even better. Didnt have a new plug to check,but bike seemed right at idle and throttle chops. Will let bike get some more break-in time, and give final result. Took front clutch apart looked liked the inside of a 120,000 mile cv joint boot that been tore the last 30,000 miles it had a little good grease and a bunch of hardened creosote like grease. Cleaned removed two rollers with slight flat spots installed rollers back in with just a dab of to hold rollers, still have to cut rear clutch shoes prob tomorrow. As stated by Lt80 use nothing but suzuki crank seals i ordered a moose bearing and seal kit before his response not to use anything but suzuki fortunately I had ordered suzuki seals prior to the kit there's no comparison in the seals but gladly seen that the bearings were koyo brand in the kit. Also cut the foot pegs in half while motor was out, another Lt80 suggestion, still need to get a inner sleeve to strengthen the joint but will make for easy removal of clutch cover and engine case cover and starter. Sorry for the long explanation but had a few people on here with same problem and wanted to take it one fix at a time to see what cured my problem, if I did it all at once wouldn't have known what fixed my problem.

 

if you had to go up on the pilot jet size im wondering if you have an air leak or vacuum leak. you would have to rig up an air leak tester to there, but i've never heard of anyone needing to up the pilot jet on these quads. if it has no air leaks then run it, but i myself would be looking further, maybe you have a leak at the case halfs or something.

 

Not doing much but hot and colds to get top end broke in, will check things later for air leaks wife is in hospital with intestine blockage so it's on the back burner for now. I ported the reed valve about as open as u can get it with the bridge cut to a v.

 

Hope all goes well.
Did you adjust the slide needle? Which notch is the clip in?

 

Should be second from top if thats factory didn't change its position. Thanks for the well wishes for the wife!

 

When you get a chance, check it. I'm thinking the clip might need lowered (needle raised).

 

Shoul I put the 20 pilot jet with that needle change, this is where I'm not used to carbs that can't adjust air or fuel mixture screw to verify its need to be changed. Will be first thing I check when I can get back to bike.