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Eton 90 Dxl starting issue

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  #11  
Old 12-13-2015, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Again if it was running fine before you tore into the carb,you may have done the damage to the gasket/air box taking it apart.. Just try to repair the gasket/box and see how it does. If it doesn't help then retrace you're steps on the carb. You can check reeds when the carb is removed. Just take one step at a time until you find the problem.

Okay. The Eton manual said to tighten up air fuel screw all the way then let off 7/8 turn. Sound about right?
 
  #12  
Old 12-13-2015, 05:54 PM
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Go by what the manual says as a base setting. You may have to deviate in or out a little to get a good idle depending on altitude you're at,temperature,engine condition, etc. In winter machines do have a tendency to run leaner because of the colder denser air.
 
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:50 AM
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is there a fuel vacuum associated with the fuel petcock valve on this atv?
 
  #14  
Old 12-14-2015, 05:18 PM
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Just look at the petcock. If it has a single line,it's gravity operated. If it has two lines, a separate line going to the carb/intake manifold or engine area,it's vacuum operated..
 
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Just look at the petcock. If it has a single line,it's gravity operated. If it has two lines, a separate line going to the carb/intake manifold or engine area,it's vacuum operated..
It has 2. Both are fuel lines. One goes to the bottom of tank and one goes to side of it. Is that just the on/reserve respectively?
 
  #16  
Old 12-14-2015, 05:30 PM
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Just a weird way of having an on and reserve setting I guess on your setup instead of two nipples at the bottom of the tank like on most. It's still a gravity flow petcock.
 
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Just a weird way of having an on and reserve setting I guess on your setup instead of two nipples at the bottom of the tank like on most. It's still a gravity flow petcock.

I appreciate all your help. You are quite the resource. Wonder why I have fuel coming from bottom drain of carb bowel after I ran it and drove it for a few minutes? Needle valve in carb? I cleaned everything and inspected it. Looked good
 
  #18  
Old 12-14-2015, 06:23 PM
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You can't always just look at a needle valve and say it looks ok.The tip could be worn enough to let fuel bypass,the seat could be worn or the float setting may be off or a combination of all. Just order a new needle valve from your parts source and that should solve it.
 
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
You can't always just look at a needle valve and say it looks ok.The tip could be worn enough to let fuel bypass,the seat could be worn or the float setting may be off or a combination of all. Just order a new needle valve from your parts source and that should solve it.

Would that valve also cause the bike to rev up itself and accelerate without me touching the throttle? I mean accelerate pretty dang fast
 
  #20  
Old 12-15-2015, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mcobb1
Would that valve also cause the bike to rev up itself and accelerate without me touching the throttle? I mean accelerate pretty dang fast
This could be anything from a leak at a base or head gasket,intake manifold leak,lean jetting,crank seals,carb slide sticking,etc. You need to look further in your manual if you have one and check the trouble shooting guides. A leak down pressurized test can spot things also.
 


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