I've got the whole engine apart. I'm replacing all seals And crankcase seal just to rule it out. I paid 200$ for it not running. I don't think I got hurt on it. The bike itself is complete. Not rigged up and beat up and pieced back to together. It's just a solid little bike. So far I've put only another 100$ in it.

 

You'll need to replace the main bearings while you're in there. I use Koyo bearings (around 10 bucks each)
crank case seal:::hondabond/yamabond..I apply it with a q-tip.
Have you split cases before?

 

No sir I haven't. I got it apart. Can't get the crank bearing to let go from the case. The side I have off is the stator/magneto side of the case. And yes definitely want to replace bearings. Oh and guess what gauge is off. What a surprise. I tried it on my leave blower and it won't even register and it a brand new blower. I think the rubber hose is the problem.
1. How do I remove the crank and bearing from the other side of the motor?
2. How do I remove the bearings from the shaft?
3. How do I change that main bearing since I'm there.
It'll be a new engine now pretty much.

 

The bearing from the stator side is still on the crank. Tapped each side with a dead blow hammer and it came right apart. No seal of any sorts left. I didn't hurt anything I was gentle with it. Also I meant rod bearing

 

I'm sure you did no damage.
Please call or email.
I'd like to explain/help.

 

10/4 I'll pm you sir

 

Update. Crank bearings and seals will be in Saturday so hoping to hear this jewel run by Monday. I'll keep you guys posted. Also a new starter. Before you ask. Yep sure did. Burned her up lol.

 

So upon disassemble did you find anything that would lead to bad compression?

Or are you saying your HF comp gauge was bad?

I chose not to split the cases on my $250 CL rebuild The bottom end had been full of a fuel oil mix for who knows how long. There was lots of crud in there. I drained the case (engine upside down) and filled with atf, drained, filled with atf, repeat for 2 weeks while engine was on bench.
Finally I cleaned the case best I could from the top side compressed air, Q tips, etc, filled case with atf again, pulled crank bearing seals and let it flush. Flushed a few more times, then final drain. During this process I rotated the crank about 1000 times
I used a Ebay stock top end kit, I have had good luck with these
Ring gap has always been in spec (installed 4 cheapo top ends to date)
No interference issues, bore is true, so far so good!! Kit was $80
I did re use the Suzuki wrist pin bearing this time around, felt more solid.



Everytime we get to the nitty gritty on one of these troubleshoot threads you guys go over to Email and PM's!
Ha you should cut and paste what is said here for all of us to see! NO I dont want you to give up any trade secrets LT just want to know all about these LT80's!

Bearings feel smooth, seals were soft, no more debris or crud in there... I am hoping I made the right choice not splitting cases. During test fire it ran perfectly, I ran it for 3 heat cycles and am now doing full assemble on bike
fingers crossed!!

I have $762 in my build total today, that includes 4 new tires but not all my hours. If it works as good as I think it will it will be worth every hour and $
I love working on these kids quads! Im afraid for my wallet