Anybody suffering stalling problems as I have?Granted they diminish as I put more hours riding time on her but I'm open to suggestions on how to keep the idle set up to not back off after awhile.Probably just me, but again it doesn't hurt to seek another opinion.

 

When doed it stall?Are you on the gass,coming to a stop,or at idle?

I had stalling problem and I got the stall map downloaded that prety much id it.I was still having trouble when I was hard on the break coming to a turn.I adjusted my clutch it was not full disengaging when pulled in.That did wonders.You can tell if it needs to be adjusted by have it running and put it in gear if it pulls alittle when you put it in gear it needs to be adjusted.It goes in neautral much easer now to.

Hope that helps,Mike

 

Thanks Mike,Hard on the rear brakes caused wheel lockup which caused stall.I got my front brakes lever closer to the end of the handlebar by shortening the grip a little and was able to eliminate that stall problem cause I could now use the front brakes like yer supposed to.I wouldn't mind a stall once in a while if it would just start back up without pissin around finding nutral.It will not start in gear when hot cause the clutch drags.The clutch handle is adjusted for all the pull it will give.There must be an internal adjustment for hyd.clutches.Yes?no?

 

By the way,what's a stall map?I'm running the Blaze map after trying the Speed.

 

There is an internal adjustment.Look in your manual for clutch adjustment.When you do it make shure you tighten down the lock nut good or it will back off on you.You should have the stall map already.

 

I have found that the idle screw backs off from vibration put a little bit of loctite on the screw then set the idle you have to have the dealer set your idle unless you have the diagnostic setup.I run 2300rpm it will fluctuate between 2150-2300.This higher idle seems to help stalling.I think cannondale says 2100.If anyone knows a way to check idle without the diag. I would like to hear from you?